1991 Silverado Ignition Switch Replacement Problems - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

1991 Silverado Ignition Switch Replacement Problems


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breid1966's Avatar
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May 25th, 2009, 11:29 PM   #1  
1991 Silverado Ignition Switch Replacement Problems

I am replacing an ignition switch on a 91 Silverado (auto, tilt wheel, 5.7 liter). I first replaced the starter (I saw that many others went through this as well) to no avail. I "jumped" the starter ignition and got it started showing me it was the switch. Now that I got the old one off and started putting the new one on I cannot get the ignition actuator into the switch. I have been told to leave the switch in "stop" or "locked" position and others say in the "accessory" position. I also cannot figure out if I got the actuator turned improperly (it is now pointing up). If anyone has an actual diagram or help on this please e-mail me or reply to this post and thanks in advance!

 
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May 23rd, 2010, 9:16 AM   #2  
Posted By: breid1966 I am replacing an ignition switch on a 91 Silverado (auto, tilt wheel, 5.7 liter). I first replaced the starter (I saw that many others went through this as well) to no avail. I "jumped" the starter ignition and got it started showing me it was the switch. Now that I got the old one off and started putting the new one on I cannot get the ignition actuator into the switch. I have been told to leave the switch in "stop" or "locked" position and others say in the "accessory" position. I also cannot figure out if I got the actuator turned improperly (it is now pointing up). If anyone has an actual diagram or help on this please e-mail me or reply to this post and thanks in advance!
how did you find your way through this? im experiencing the same thing and i cant find any article about it, some say i can follow honda's replacement procedures because their basically the same.


Last edited by archebald23; May 24th, 2010 at 10:17 PM.
 
breid1966's Avatar
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May 24th, 2010, 10:40 AM   #3  
Trying to remember, considering it was last year. The switch actually sits on the top of the column. I had the truck in neutral to get the switch in, which BTW will throw the alignment off on the gear indicator a bit (PRN(O)D12) but is easy to realign. Once getting the switch in place, the hardest part was getting the wiring harnesses connected as there is very little room. The switch, as I said, sits on the top of the column, and once it's in place you'll see that it almost falls into place by itself. It's frustrating and takes A LOT OF PATIENCE! You'll also find that that a 1/4" ratchet with extension will be your best friend when it comes to tightening everything up. Once I figured it all out (almost 2 days), I undid everything, took the switch out and started over from scratch, it took me about 20 minutes to do it all again. Trial and error is what got me through. When all was over and done with I found the problem was NOT in the switch but the key mechanism! Fortunately I was able to get the new key switch out and a new one back in in less than 1 hour, including going to O'Reily's to rent/use the steering wheel puller. All in all, like I said, it was a 20 minute job for the switch that took me 2 days to figure it all out. Trial and error makes you a better person and teaches a lot of patience!!! Good luck and God bless!

 
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January 10th, 2011, 11:40 PM   #4  
so it is neccssary to pull the steering wheel on this model? I have one that operates very well, with or without the key! its a 92 k1500

 
dspud2006's Avatar
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January 15th, 2012, 7:44 PM   #5  
Yes the steering wheel and lock plate must be pulled

 
breid1966's Avatar
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January 16th, 2012, 7:01 AM   #6  
Posted By: oleblue92 so it is neccssary to pull the steering wheel on this model? I have one that operates very well, with or without the key! its a 92 k1500
It is necessary to remove the steering wheel if you are going to replace the key switch but NOT if you are only replace the ignition switch. Ignition switch sits on top of the steering column close to the firewall. Have handy a flashlight, small metric sockets (10mm and below), hopefully small hands (which I do not have) and a large amount of patients!

 
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February 11th, 2012, 9:28 PM   #7  
Is there any way to test the key mechanism? I am having the same troubles with my 98 Silverado. I replaced the starter, replaced the battery and it started and ran fine for a few days until the real brake cylinder blew out, replaced that, started the motor to bleed the brakes several times. Only when we dropped it off the jack stand it all of a sudden wouldn't start, only clicks. I checked the ground wire, checked the battery cables, replaced the positive end and am currently at a loss. I removed the starter and they tested it A-OK. Key mechanism eh..... Hmmmmm

 
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February 12th, 2012, 8:27 AM   #8  
Posted By: Apexhunter Is there any way to test the key mechanism? I am having the same troubles with my 98 Silverado. I replaced the starter, replaced the battery and it started and ran fine for a few days until the real brake cylinder blew out, replaced that, started the motor to bleed the brakes several times. Only when we dropped it off the jack stand it all of a sudden wouldn't start, only clicks. I checked the ground wire, checked the battery cables, replaced the positive end and am currently at a loss. I removed the starter and they tested it A-OK. Key mechanism eh..... Hmmmmm
The only way I knew it was the key mechanism is that there was no spring back when I turned the key. The key would turn but not completely. Plus, it was the only other thing left to try, having replaced nearly all the other parts and accessories. If you have checked the hot and ground to the battery, is there a possible ground somewhere else? Maybe touching the frame or something? To test the wires for the key, you need to pull the steering column off to get to the wires then determine your hot and ground, similar to hot wiring. Stick an ohms meter to them to determine continuity. In order to replace the actual mechanism, you have to pull the steering wheel. You can rent a steering wheel puller for near to nothing at your parts store. The switch is about $15-$20 and takes about an hour or less to do it (with the right tools). Hope this helps!

 
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