Cranks but wont start
January 1st, 2008, 12:02 PM
#1
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Cranks but wont start
Ok So heres the deal...I have a 2001 Chevy S-10 with a 2.2L flex fuel engine...On really cold days usally below 32 degrees the truck wont start. When i turn the key the engine just cranks and cranks but will not start. I know there is a technical service bulletin out on these trucks the TSB number is 201220...but I dont have access to the full bulletin. if anyone else has had this problem or as access to TSB's please help. All help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Doug
Thanks in advance
Doug
January 4th, 2008, 1:24 PM
#2
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Cranks but wont start
Well ill put some more info up...I have replaced the MAP sensor. Checked the fuel pressure it is 51psi with key on engine off and 59/60psi with engine on...I am in the process of checking the Air intake temp sensor...I have checked the battery and it is good...Any tips on where to go next or any ideas what the problem is? any and all help would be greatly appreciated
January 21st, 2008, 8:42 AM
#3
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Cranks but wont start
UPDATE: today it was 10 degrees...and my stuck would not startt so I am back at square one. if anyone was any idea of what the problem is all help will be appreciated
January 21st, 2008, 10:15 PM
#4
RE: Cranks but wont start
This was the only bulletin regarding a cold weather no start...hope it helps
Subject:
Crank No Start When Cold Due To Compression Loss - keywords cylinder cylinderhead extended hard head lifter loss #PIP3146B - (11/09/2006)
[align=left]
Models:
2000-2007 All Passenger Cars with Gasoline Engines[/align][align=left]
2000-2007 All Light Duty Trucks with Gasoline Engines[/align]
[hr]
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Crank no start when cold. The engine may crank over very fast, as if there is low/no compression. It may also run rough for up to 5 minutes after starting the engine and may exhibit a P0300 DTC too. This may be caused by sticking valves due to fuel contamination. When the engine is cold, the compression on multiple cylinders may be at 0 PSI. The engine also may pop through the intake or exhaust while cranking and the spark plugs may be fuel fouled when inspected. Some engines may also experience valve damage or cam followers that are out of position as a result of this.
This condition will normally occur in specific areas of the country for a period of time and then it will no longer occur after the suspect fuel source has been consumed in that area of the country.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the SI Diagnosis lead to a compression loss due to sticking valves, the following information may help:
If there is no sign of valve damage or cam followers that are out of place, perform the following procedure to free up sticking valves and to prevent the valves from sticking again. If valve damage is present or if there are cam followers that are out of place, perform engine mechanical repairs as necessary to correct the concern and then perform the procedure below to prevent the valves from sticking again.
[ol]Clean the fuel system by following the applicable "Fuel System Cleaning" procedure outlined in SI.
Add fuel injector cleaner "GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco®, use 88861013) (in Canada, 88861012)" . . . see bulletin # 05-00-89-078A, to the fuel tank in the approved quantities.
Refill the fuel tank using fuel from a high volume, high quality filling station.
Clean the induction system using GM Top Engine Cleaner. Follow the directions on the can but DO NOT force the engine to stall since forcing the engine to stall with liquid Top Engine Cleaner could cause the engine to hydro-lock.
Advise the customer to change fuel filling stations. They should use fuel from only high volume, high quality filling stations or they should use a Top Tier Detergent Gasoline if available. See 04-06-04-047F (U.S.) or 05-06-04-022B (Canada) for details regarding Top Tier Detergent Gasolines. [/ol]
Note: If the condition is not eliminated chemically, it may be necessary to remove the valves to manually clean the stems.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
Subject:
Crank No Start When Cold Due To Compression Loss - keywords cylinder cylinderhead extended hard head lifter loss #PIP3146B - (11/09/2006)
[align=left]
Models:
2000-2007 All Passenger Cars with Gasoline Engines[/align][align=left]
2000-2007 All Light Duty Trucks with Gasoline Engines[/align]
[hr]
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Crank no start when cold. The engine may crank over very fast, as if there is low/no compression. It may also run rough for up to 5 minutes after starting the engine and may exhibit a P0300 DTC too. This may be caused by sticking valves due to fuel contamination. When the engine is cold, the compression on multiple cylinders may be at 0 PSI. The engine also may pop through the intake or exhaust while cranking and the spark plugs may be fuel fouled when inspected. Some engines may also experience valve damage or cam followers that are out of position as a result of this.
This condition will normally occur in specific areas of the country for a period of time and then it will no longer occur after the suspect fuel source has been consumed in that area of the country.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the SI Diagnosis lead to a compression loss due to sticking valves, the following information may help:
If there is no sign of valve damage or cam followers that are out of place, perform the following procedure to free up sticking valves and to prevent the valves from sticking again. If valve damage is present or if there are cam followers that are out of place, perform engine mechanical repairs as necessary to correct the concern and then perform the procedure below to prevent the valves from sticking again.
[ol]Clean the fuel system by following the applicable "Fuel System Cleaning" procedure outlined in SI.
Add fuel injector cleaner "GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco®, use 88861013) (in Canada, 88861012)" . . . see bulletin # 05-00-89-078A, to the fuel tank in the approved quantities.
Refill the fuel tank using fuel from a high volume, high quality filling station.
Clean the induction system using GM Top Engine Cleaner. Follow the directions on the can but DO NOT force the engine to stall since forcing the engine to stall with liquid Top Engine Cleaner could cause the engine to hydro-lock.
Advise the customer to change fuel filling stations. They should use fuel from only high volume, high quality filling stations or they should use a Top Tier Detergent Gasoline if available. See 04-06-04-047F (U.S.) or 05-06-04-022B (Canada) for details regarding Top Tier Detergent Gasolines. [/ol]
Note: If the condition is not eliminated chemically, it may be necessary to remove the valves to manually clean the stems.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
January 24th, 2008, 8:44 PM
#5
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RE: Cranks but wont start
i'm having the same problem, but mine is not temperature related i don't think.
1997 S10 4.3FI "X" vin ex-cab 109,000 miles
ok if i turn the key into the on position and my cluster lights DO NOT come on my truck will kill the battery trying to start it, (it will turn over but it will not start) but if i turn the key into the on position again (maybe after 2 or 3 times turning it off and on) and when the cluster lights DO COME ON the truck will start no problem.
my problem is now my cluster lights will not come on at all and my truck will not start.
just hoping someone could help me out.
Thanks
1997 S10 4.3FI "X" vin ex-cab 109,000 miles
ok if i turn the key into the on position and my cluster lights DO NOT come on my truck will kill the battery trying to start it, (it will turn over but it will not start) but if i turn the key into the on position again (maybe after 2 or 3 times turning it off and on) and when the cluster lights DO COME ON the truck will start no problem.
my problem is now my cluster lights will not come on at all and my truck will not start.
just hoping someone could help me out.
Thanks
January 28th, 2008, 9:13 PM
#7
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RE: Cranks but wont start
would this be the correct switch you are talking about.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...10&PTSet=A
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...10&PTSet=A
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January 29th, 2008, 8:29 PM
#8
RE: Cranks but wont start
that does look like the one.
did you test the wires? don't just replace the switch without testing as it may not be what is wrong
here is a list of colors you will find and what they do
red - B+
red\white - B+
yellow - starter
white - IGN
brown - accy
orange - accy
did you test the wires? don't just replace the switch without testing as it may not be what is wrong
here is a list of colors you will find and what they do
red - B+
red\white - B+
yellow - starter
white - IGN
brown - accy
orange - accy
January 29th, 2008, 9:42 PM
#9
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Cranks but wont start
hey glad to see this thread finally take off!!! I have been fighting this problem for 2 winters now. I am going to look into the Compression issue as soon as i have a chance to get home (i am away at college) and i was starting to think that it was the ignition switch b/c some days if i give the tuck a shake (usally with anger) sometimes it will start so i am deffinately thinking there is a bad connection somewhere
January 31st, 2008, 5:13 AM
#10
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RE: Cranks but wont start
ORIGINAL: shawnvw
that does look like the one.
did you test the wires? don't just replace the switch without testing as it may not be what is wrong
here is a list of colors you will find and what they do
red - B+
red\white - B+
yellow - starter
white - IGN
brown - accy
orange - accy
that does look like the one.
did you test the wires? don't just replace the switch without testing as it may not be what is wrong
here is a list of colors you will find and what they do
red - B+
red\white - B+
yellow - starter
white - IGN
brown - accy
orange - accy
if so should i try testing the wires with the switch off and then on?
one more thing.. i have a factory security system installed. heres a pic of my fuse box.
i'm thinking thats the wire for the securty system. this system didn't come with any kind of remote button.
if can see it. one of the wires is in the #10 fuse slot. thats the ECM.
fuse box map
