Wheel bearing replacement
#1
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Wheel bearing replacement
Quick question for a 98 AWD astro.. Front pass side wheel bearing is shot and was wondering if the whole hub has to be replaced or if the bearings them selves are replaceable in them or which is better/easier to do? Just curious to what ill be needing to get and what not... Thanks
#2
The whole banana
for AWD. you have to replace the whole hub assembly and it's a bear to do. You'll need a very big breaker bar and a cheater to boot most likely to get the axle nut off and make sure you use 6 pt sockets on the bolts on the back side--and you'll need one of those special forget what they call those star like sockets for the caliper bolts. You'll need a puller or expect to do a lot of cursing trying to get the hub off--if you can get all the bolts and nuts broken free.
Remove wheel.
Remove some fluid from brake reservoir and remove brake caliper and caliper bracket.
Remove axle nut--you probably will have to put the wheel back on on lower vehicle onto wheel to hold it while you break the nut loose with a 35 mm socket--at least 1/2 inch drive, preferably 3/4, breaker bar, cheater--pipe to put over breaker bar to gain leverage.
take the nut off and remove the rotor.
make sure you use 6 pt sockets--mine are 15 mm to remove the three bolts at the back that hold on the bearing assembly. A lot of people have big time trouble with this. Make sure the socket is seated well. i had better luck with the 30 inch breaker bar than with an impact wrench--for some reason the heads on these bolts are easy to round off.
Recommend you watch a lot of the many You Tube videos posted of what people go through to do this job. Timken has a nice video showing how only they aren't dealing with a real vehicle scenario where theie is a decade or more of rust and crap and nearly welded stuck parts.
Remove wheel.
Remove some fluid from brake reservoir and remove brake caliper and caliper bracket.
Remove axle nut--you probably will have to put the wheel back on on lower vehicle onto wheel to hold it while you break the nut loose with a 35 mm socket--at least 1/2 inch drive, preferably 3/4, breaker bar, cheater--pipe to put over breaker bar to gain leverage.
take the nut off and remove the rotor.
make sure you use 6 pt sockets--mine are 15 mm to remove the three bolts at the back that hold on the bearing assembly. A lot of people have big time trouble with this. Make sure the socket is seated well. i had better luck with the 30 inch breaker bar than with an impact wrench--for some reason the heads on these bolts are easy to round off.
Recommend you watch a lot of the many You Tube videos posted of what people go through to do this job. Timken has a nice video showing how only they aren't dealing with a real vehicle scenario where theie is a decade or more of rust and crap and nearly welded stuck parts.
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