Installation Connection Problem: 0-Gauge to 8-Gauge, or Alternate?
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Installation Connection Problem: 0-Gauge to 8-Gauge, or Alternate?
Hello everyone,
I have an installation issue, but not one related directly to car audio, but one that is very similar in nature to amp installation, and for all intents and purposes, can be considered as such.
The situation is, I just purchased a Cobra CPI 2575 2500 Wat Power Inverter along with lengths of 1/0 gauge wire to power it. I selected the Stinger 0 Gauge to 4 Gauge Power Wire Reducer because Cobra stated that the power terminals are 4-gauge, I thought this was a great match and would provide a clean installation with minimal resistance. The problem is, the holes on the Cobra inverter do fit 4 gauge wire, but NOT the semi-rounded 4 gauge port of the Stinger reducer.
Hence the dilemma.
Ideally, I'd like to then use a 1/0 to 8 gauge reducer, but cannot find one anywhere online, and don't even know if anyone makes such a product. If so, please point me in that direction. They are not available from any of the most popular retailers or manufacturers. Nor ebay, for that matter.
So, unless I can find a pair of 1/0 gauge to 8 gauge screw-set reducers, my options seem limited to the following:
As an aside, everything will be insulated with heat shrink tubing and split loom, especially through the firewall and into the engine compartment, to the ANL fuse block and to the battery.
So, my questions are:
Does anyone know where I can find a 1/0 gauge to 8 gauge reducer?
If not, which method above would be best in this case?
If none of the above, please share your solution!
Thanks,
Jeff
I have an installation issue, but not one related directly to car audio, but one that is very similar in nature to amp installation, and for all intents and purposes, can be considered as such.
The situation is, I just purchased a Cobra CPI 2575 2500 Wat Power Inverter along with lengths of 1/0 gauge wire to power it. I selected the Stinger 0 Gauge to 4 Gauge Power Wire Reducer because Cobra stated that the power terminals are 4-gauge, I thought this was a great match and would provide a clean installation with minimal resistance. The problem is, the holes on the Cobra inverter do fit 4 gauge wire, but NOT the semi-rounded 4 gauge port of the Stinger reducer.
Hence the dilemma.
Ideally, I'd like to then use a 1/0 to 8 gauge reducer, but cannot find one anywhere online, and don't even know if anyone makes such a product. If so, please point me in that direction. They are not available from any of the most popular retailers or manufacturers. Nor ebay, for that matter.
So, unless I can find a pair of 1/0 gauge to 8 gauge screw-set reducers, my options seem limited to the following:
- (1) Trim the excess wire from the 1/0 gauge wire to fit the 4 gauge hole.
- (2) Use an 0 gauge butt-end coupler, 1/0 gauge on one side, folded and spliced 4 gauge on the other and use dual input on the inverter.
- (3) Use a distribution block with 1/0 in and 4 gauge out.
- (4) Other?
As an aside, everything will be insulated with heat shrink tubing and split loom, especially through the firewall and into the engine compartment, to the ANL fuse block and to the battery.
So, my questions are:
Does anyone know where I can find a 1/0 gauge to 8 gauge reducer?
If not, which method above would be best in this case?
If none of the above, please share your solution!
Thanks,
Jeff
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For the benefit of others who may face a similar issue, I am posting my solution. I decided to grind down the posts of the 4 gauge connectors using a Dremmel and grinding tip. Took just enough off the sides, as well as 1/32 inch around the center so it fits prefectly snug with no gaps.
Carefully, and checking size along the way, it took about an hour to do both.
The images below show the installation process during test-phase only, so you may see a gap and a set screw extended. This won't be there when actual installation begins.
To add, I also plan to cover the entire post length from plastic base to an inch into the wire cover in thick heat shrink tubing, then top off with plastic wire loom in the engine compartment from the ANL fuse block to the firewall entry.
Carefully, and checking size along the way, it took about an hour to do both.
The images below show the installation process during test-phase only, so you may see a gap and a set screw extended. This won't be there when actual installation begins.
To add, I also plan to cover the entire post length from plastic base to an inch into the wire cover in thick heat shrink tubing, then top off with plastic wire loom in the engine compartment from the ANL fuse block to the firewall entry.
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