tvcupajoe

shuvl Thank you for the information regarding your previous electrical issues with your Captiva. I have been searching for some information related to my 2014 Chevy Captiva having electrical issues as well. When we purchased the vehicle, the radio and the CID were not working. The sales person said we can just have the Service Dept. put in a new fuse to resolve the problem. After two days of driving a loaner from the dealership, they said they had to send it out to the GM Dealership to have the problem resolved. Two days later we received the car and all was well... about a year later, I tried to start the car and there was no power at all. No lights, interior or headlights, no radio or display on the CID. I called for roadside assistance to have it towed to the dealership but the car was in my garage. The tow truck driver put his portable cables on to jump the car but no power. Once he wiggled the positive battery terminal connector, all power was restored and it started right up. He advised me to have it towed to the Dealership regardless. The dealership had the car for two days and said they could not recreate the issues. They did tell me they updated the software and put a new L shaped connector on the positive terminal. Several months later (Nine or ten), we experienced a number of problems. When trying to start the car, there would be no power and you could not remove the key from the ignition. I had to pop the hood, hit the positive terminal with the heal of my hand and the power would be restored to start the vehicle. When the connection to the positive terminal was checked it was so tight it could not be moved. This problem could happen five times in a day then not happen for a week and a half. Quickly it became worse as the radio would go out or the CID, then come back on. Power would flicker and bells would go off informing you of a problem. On the dashboard there would periodically be idiot lights that would quickly flash then go out. Even the Park indicator light would flash on. Three times that I tried hitting the terminal with the heal of my hand it set the alarm off. I had to put the key into the ignition to start the car and stop the alarm. Many times when the power would go out, I would have just stopped at a store for a few min to get gas or otherwise and the car would not have any power. It would not respond with the key fob at all. I would have to use the key for entry. Recently, I took it back to the dealer we bought the car from for an inspection and oil change. I informed them of the problem and was directed to the GM Dealer. I tried scheduling an appointment but was told they could not get me in for about a month and to try another GM Dealer. When I got into the other GM Dealer Aug. 8,2016, I was told it was no longer under the 3 year 36000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty even though the mileage was under 30K. They told me it ran out just days before (July 26th 2016) and to take it back to the other GM Dealer who had it 10 months earlier. Tomorrow, I have an appointment with the that GM Dealer Aug. 30, 2016. I have printed your information because it is exactly the same type of problems I have been reading and hope they will be willing to not only fix it under warranty but to replace the battery cables. I will update with new information asap.

shuvl

Good luck to you!. I know it's frustrating.. and can be dangerous.

Also might want to check out this article.... Saturn VUE and Chevrolet Captiva Sport Electrical Issues |

I understand it has helped a few folks here too.

Chris

RPHess

I also have a 2014 Captiva with the same issue. It was just fixed at a cost of nearly $600 by replacing the battery cable.

But there's more....

The mechanic breaks the bolt on a perfectly good starter and I end up paying nearly $500 for a new starter.

Last time I use this dealership.

Shannon Booker

I'm more than frustrated with my Captiva and wondering if my issues are also in the cable (with the exception of the last).

1. The panel lights dim on occasion, in the center only and not on every start
2. Turn signals stop clicking (and lighting up) mid-drive, open and closing driver side door fixes temporarily - I wonder if I even have working brake lights at time because of this
3. Third brake light stopped working entirely, connection looks fine
4. Key gets stuck in ignition and requires starting or running through the gears to release
5. Center vent will blow a fog out and always has condensation around it - even when closed and at 74-ish degrees
6. iPod connector goes out randomly
7. Two batteries now and the voltage jumps between 12 and 14 for no particular reason
8. And most recently, brakes squeal when used on an incline but all pads are 2/3 or better. What is that???

Local dealers want a minimum of $100 to diagnose. By the sound of most of these stories, it's going to cost more than that to just get the right diagnosis.
My warranty is up, the brake light alone is too much to replace ($300 estimate) if it's not even the issue. I've replaced fuses and checked connections - I can't find a "connection" between all of these issues besides what I just read.

Obviously, the brake lights are the most concerning and a GIANT law suit waiting to happen - has anyone else had this happen with their third brake light? And what did you find was the fix?

Tierra Winckler

So turns out I am having the SAME problem as everyone else on this forum. My car turned completely off while going 85 mph on a very busy freeway. When I finally got my car to the side of the road I could not get out of the car. The locks would not work, seat would not work, car would not let me out. Nothing. I called Chevy and they told me it is not a known problem. THIS IS A BULL**** LIE. I am very very unhappy and do not have the money or time to handle this issue.

Silverbullet99

I am also having similar issues with my 2012 Captiva. The dealer has already tightened the battery cables which they claim were loose. The also replaced the Body Control Module behind the glove box? The car continued to have issues with the radio going out, dash lights flashing on, then off, and dash would state "service Control Module" or something like that. We bought the car as a GM certified vehicle from the dealership that is doing all of the work. We also purchased an extended warranty on the car. The car did not have a remote start at the time of purchase. The Salesman told us that it was not an issue to have an aftermarket remote installed, so we did. Now the dealership wants to blame every electrical issue on that remote system. I guess we should not have trusted the salesman (we probably shouldn't have bought the car). The last time the car was in the shop for this, they pulled the fuses that power the remote start. At first things seemed better, but then we noticed a section of the center console controls were dead. This section powers the rear wiper, rear wiper washer, EMERGENCY FLASHERS, Traction Control System & it has an indicator led for the passenger side airbag. The dealership said they had no idea why those items were not working. They assured me that the airbag would still deploy if there is an accident. I installed the fuses for the remote start and it works fine, but still nothing worked on the center console controls. We have driven the car for over 400 miles w/o any issues ( please keep in mind the center control console is still dead). I asked them what the next step would be & they said they would need to look into the problem & see why the center console controls are not working. They always remind me that since the car was modified with the remote start, that I may be responsible for any & all fees incurred while troubleshooting the problem if it is not covered under the warranty. This thing does not seem safe to drive.
I would like a GM service rep to contact me regarding this issue. It has been going on for years. Does someone need to die from this issue before GM does a recall?

Jayssell

2012 Captiva V6
Dead battery at purchase from dealer 2015 - replaced battery and alternator
Stereo would go on and off 2015- replaced positive battery cable assembly
Dead battery 2016 - replaced
Engine wouldnt rev over 3k- threw bad O2 sensor codes / dealer replaced mass air flow ( I dont know why) I believe it may have been a loose gas cap
Key stuck in ignition ,,battery voltage at 11.3- added battery cable straight from alternator to battery.
More to follow......

Jayssell

Air conditioning now turns itself off-

After adding battery cable straight from alternator , voltage is maintained while driving , but there appears to be a parasitic draw when engine is off.

More to follow....

Jayssell

Thank you clevland63b, I added the cable and 4 months no issues.
Where do I send the check?

shuvl

03/29/2017 update.... The gmproblemsolver.com site is no longer up. Hmmmm... wonder why? I need to look in my archives. Hoping I might have pdf'd the tech page for this fix.