aiwit

Hey, I purchased a 99 cavalier. Everything works on it including the ABS system. However, when driving in the rain, I simply don't like the feel of ABS braking assist. Is there a way of safely disabling by pulling out one of the fuses? If yes, can you please tell me where to look? Thank you.

Siliconasp

If you open the drive side door and look under the dashboard below the steering wheel you should see the access panel for the fuse box. Open the fuse box by removing the thumb screw and now review the diagram of fuses on this. Locate and remove the ABS Fuse, this will disable the ABS Braking System.

Also, grab a US PENNY. Flip it so you have Lincoln's head pointing down, now go insert it into your tire tread on all 4 tires, if you can still see Lincolns forehead, replace your tires, if you can not see his forehead all is fine. Your tread depth should be greater then 1/8th inches. Anything less then that, and most manufactures call your tires Bald and should be replaced.

WARNING...

I would strongly recommending NOT disabling the ABS System in this car. The ABS is designed to prevent you from locking up your brakes and loosing control of car in an extreme braking event. Hydroplaning and spinouts can be better controlled if not out right prevented with the ABS System engaged.

If you are having issue with the ABS System kicking in everytime during wet driving, I would recommend you have a qualified technician check your brakes for ware, as it could be time for new pads and shoes or an adjustment to the brake system itself.

One last thing, if you drive the same road at 65 MPH on a clear dry day, I would recommend driving the same road at 60 MPH while raining or slower. If ABS is kicking while driving in the rain at 65 MPH your out driving the condition and ABS is trying to save mine and your's life... just a thought.

Jaybegood

If your knowlege of mechanics, and skill at driving are on a par with your ability to use and type the English language you are in serious trouble.

ABS is a totally useless addition to automobiles. I don't need a computer to tell me how to drive. If you do, then please stay off the roads until you learn how to actually drive a vehicle.

Over 1.5 million miles, no accidents. 3 tickets (one for 57mph in my VW when the speed limit was 55mph!), have experienced hydroplaneing (no problem, take foot off acellerator, car slows down, tires recontact with road.) explosive decompression at 70+ mph (no problem, curse, take foot off acellerator, car slows down, steer to side of road, curse again, change flat.) Driven in snow, sleet and rain. Every possible condition of weather. Dicey? Hell yes! But I didn't need automatic breaks or a computer on board to tell me how to drive!

Jaybegood

OK, considering I neglected to "review my post" and noticed several errors too late, I'll cut you slack on that
point.

My opinion of ABS and on-board computers remains the same.

binzer

I applaud your amazing driving ability.
And your skills as a pilot must be equally impressive if you were able to land safely after explosive decompression.
But for those people that haven't driven 1.5 million miles, ABS can be a life saver.

More to the OP's original point. If your brakes are locking up, even in the rain, then you've got an issue with your brakes, not your ABS.

It's probably the rears that are giving you the trouble. Cavalier rear brakes, being drums, are notoriously touchy.

I'd recommend having your drums resurfaced, or replaced, and installing a set of good quality brake shoes.

EinST

You know, this thread was over two years old before Jaybegood resurrected it with some tall tales. I'm rather surprised that there was no mention of a stick shift without synchros.

Jaybegood

Number one, Jay came to this site while searching for ways to disable the ABS on his 2004 Pontiac Montana. Can't afford a "repair" and so far none of the mechanics have been forthcoming on how to disable it.
The only thing that concerns me now is this "dynamic porporting" bug-a-boo thats cropped up. I was completely happy with just unplugging the fuse but now I've got to find out more about that "other thing." If it just means I have more braking power in the front than the rear I can live with that. Drove my '77 El Camino for years with only one set of active brakes!

Jay, while a Vietnam Veteran (Army '68) is not a pilot. "Explosive Decompression" is a technical term for what we all used to call a "blow-out." It's when your tire commits suicide and shreds itself all to heck and back while driving at speed. We ain't talking slow leak here campers.

And yes Jay had an MG Midget that he drove and raced in the late 60's early 70's that did not have Syncromesh...learned to heel and toe never won a race but placed and always did a respectable job.

Yes Jay is older than dirt.

So, with all that being said, does anybody know other than "perceived dangers" of any actual damage to a car from pulling the fuse on the ABS?

From what I've read the brake system is designed to function normally with the ABS non-functional, but again that "dynamic porporting" has me confused.

binzer

The following was copied from a Toyota 4Runner forum from 2002...

"Hey all,

Here is an article from CANADIANDRIVER.com regarding dynamic rear proportioning (aka. EBD or electronic brake distribution):

With almost every introduction of a new vehicle in the last couple years, the words "Dynamic Rear Proportioning" have been touted as one of the key features of the brake system. What is Dynamic rear proportioning, and why does it offer advantages over regular hydraulic brakes?

First, let's look at how a vehicle stops during normal braking. When the brake pedal is pressed, the pistons in the master cylinder push brake fluid out to the wheel calipers or wheel cylinders where they apply the brakes. With disc brakes on the front, and drum brakes on the rear, the front and rear need different brake pressures to stop the vehicle smoothly in a straight line. The difference in hydraulic pressure is accomplished by adding proportioning valves to the vehicle's brake system.

Vehicles with disc brakes all around also need proportioning valves to control rear brake pressure. On all types of brake systems, the brake force required at the wheels varies by the rate of deceleration, the weight transfer of the vehicle, the design of the suspension, and loads inside the vehicle.

In rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the brake lines from the master cylinder are typically routed so one part of the master cylinder feeds the front brakes, while the other half of the master cylinder feeds the rear brakes. A proportioning valve could be mounted as part of the master cylinder, but many vehicles incorporate the valve into a 'combination' valve that is also used to control minimum front brake pressure and the brake warning light.

Front wheel drive vehicles typically use a front/rear combination connection to the master cylinder. The left front and right rear wheels are fed from one part, and the right front and left rear are fed from the other part. This allows more balanced braking if one hydraulic circuit fails. The rear brakes on front wheel drive vehicles may only provide up to 10% of the total braking force, so this combination arrangement ensures there should be at least one front brake working in the event of a leak. Proportioning valves on this system may be at the master cylinder, but are often found in the rear brake lines.

Inside a proportioning valve, there is a spring and a valve. With zero or low pressure in the brake line, the valve is open, allowing brake fluid to flow easily through the valve. As the brake pedal is pressed further, line pressure increases and the proportioning valve closes, limiting the flow of fluid to the rear brakes. This prevents the rear brakes from locking up as the weight of the vehicle is transferred to the front and rear wheel traction decreases.

With passenger cars, the design of the vehicle makes predicting loads and weight transfer relatively predictable, so the spring tension in the proportioning valve could be set at the factory for normal operation. Trucks and vans were more difficult because of the variety of loads placed in these vehicles. Some of these vehicles used a height sensing or load sensing proportioning valve. These valves had a moveable arm connected to the rear axle and as the height and load of the vehicle changed, the arm placed more or less pressure on the proportioning valve spring. It worked fine until parts became damaged or corrosion seized the valve.

So now, vehicle manufacturers are switching to dynamic rear proportioning. This is an electronic system integrated into the vehicle's ABS system. Dynamic proportioning will vary the rear wheel brake pressure by reducing brake pressure only as much as necessary for each brake application. This provides optimum braking on the rear wheels and keeps the vehicle stable during braking.

When the brake pedal is pressed, full hydraulic pressure goes to the back wheels. The computer monitors deceleration rates for each wheel and operates solenoids to reduce pressure at the rear wheels before they reach the point of lock up. In reality, this is very much like ABS system operation, but the programming reacts differently and a wheel does not have to lock before activation occurs. Dynamic is the key word, with the brake pressure continually changing to stop the vehicle the best. Regardless of load, traction, or braking speed, Dynamic Rear Proportioning prevents the rear wheels from locking, and provides optimum braking; yet another advantage of today's electronic vehicle systems."<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

EinST

In the case of Jay's 2004 Montana, if the ABS warning light is on in the I/P cluster, there won't be anything that needs done since the ABS (and TCS if equipped) is disabled in that case. The brakes will work fine by the brake pedal force, vacuum booster, and master cylinder with each chamber of the master cylinder supplying the hydraulic pressure to one front and one rear wheel diagonally. There's a proportioning valve on each of the front-to-rear circuits underneath the vehicle chassis, not to be confused with the BPMV which modulates the hydraulic pressure when the ABS kicks in. Thus, pulling the fuse won't lead to trouble. However, since the hydraulic pressure is routed through the BPMV, if there's something wrong with the BPMV like pistons not staying put, faulty check valves or isolation solenoids, cutting power won't resolve anything.

Jaybegood

Thanks for that clear and concise answer. I'll monitor the situation when the light is on...and see if my "problem" exists and with the light off. IF the "problem" disappears when the light is on (and the ABS system is non-functional) then I'll know that removing the fuse is the way to go. If not...well we'll just have to sell a grandchild or two to raise some money for a repair!

Jay messed up on his terminology back there, heel and toe is for brakeing in a turn etc. it was "double clutching" for shifting without syncro.

Also can somebody tell me where in the world is Carmen San Deigo? LOL! No, actually can somebody tell me where the blasted ABS fuse is located?

Under the hood? With the other fuses on the passenger side?

Does Waldo have it?

Thanks again for all the help.