skidooxps

I went to start my 2005 Cavalier and it cranked and started to fire for about 2 seconds and then everything went dead. There is no power to the entire IP, (radio, cluster, HVAC, etc) or the starter. Absolutely nothing happens when the key is in ACC, Run, or Crank. Headlights and interior lights work. I did a quick look for the engine ground and it is connected. I will be doing the measurements later today to make sure the ground is good.

> None of relay's in the fuse/relay box under the hood click when the key is put in the run position.
> The battery voltage does not fluctuate when the key is put in the run position.

I have looked in the shop manual (Haynes) and I do not see a common point between the starter and the IP that could cause power to be lost to both.

Any Ideas???

oldchevy

Sounds like it is a problem with the connections to the battery. Check both battery cables at both ends for good tight connections with no corrosion. The battery voltage could be good but not getting connected due to faulty connections. Don't rule out a bad battery either. It could have voltage but not enough amperage.

skidooxps

Thanks for the reply OldChevy. I check my grounds and all is tight. Did a thorough cleaning of the batter terminals. Still the same problem. I then completed the steps below.

1. Checked the ignition fuse in the fuse/relay box under the hood. Solid voltage present on BOTH sides of the fuse. Cleaned the fuse terminals and still the same issue. Also checked the fuse independently and it is good.

2. Then disconnected the clutch pedal switch to see if there was voltage at the connector from the ignition switch when the key is in the "Run" position. There so NO voltage present.

3. Then disconnected the connectors going to the ignition switch to make sure there was battery voltage on the Red wires and there is ONY 2 VOLTS. According to the shop manual this should be a direct connection from the ignition fuse under the hood to the ignition switch in the car. I have over 12 volts at the fuse but only 2 volts at the ignition switch on the Red wires.

Any Ideas????

skidooxps

I have also checked the following:

1. The resistance between the negative battery terminal and the engine itself is zero ohms.

2. I measured the resistance between the ingnition fue under the hood and the red wires at the ignition switch connector and it shows OPEN. Based on the vehicle wiring diagram the resistance should be basically zero as it should just be a wire. I did this measurement with the battery completely disconnected.

skidooxps

Posting again to see if anyone may have any ideas. I have had to let the car sit due to other issues but have gotten back to it. It is a mystery why I have batter voltage on both sides of te IGN Fuse (in the fuse/relay box) under the hood but there is only about 0.4 volts on the red wires at the ingnition switch. When I disconnect the battery the 0.4 volts goes to zero. The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual shows NOTHING between this fuse and the connector on the ignition switch. I have looked at the wiring from the Fuse/Relay box to the bulkhead connector and it looks fine as best I can tell. Is the Haynes wiring diagram correct or is there a switch (i.e. clutch switch) or a fuseable link or anything else in the car that just kills everything except the darn trunk opener.

tech2

check all the mega fuses in the under hood fuse box. the battery 1 fuse feeds a lot of circuits. including the i/p and bcm
are you sure the battery is good...sub in a known good one if you are in doubt.

skidooxps

Thanks for the reply. I have checked each mega fuse with a multimeter and they all check out ok. I know that it is possible for them to quasi open where with the current load they will seem ok. I will swap them around to see if anything changes. The battery is relatively new. The reason that I do not think it is the battery is that it was cranking when everything suddenly went dead. I will put some jumper cables to another car just to rule it out. This is really stumping me. I really do not want to tear out the wire bundle going through the firewall. I just don't know why there would be voltage at the IGN Mega fuse but no voltage at the other end of the red wires going into the ignition switch. I have the connector out of the switch so it is NOT a short farther down the line (i.e starter solenoid).

skidooxps

one correction to my post above. .....for them to Quasi open where WITHOUT the current load......

tech2

do a continuity check of the ign wire from the underhood fuse box to the ignition switch.
disconnect the neg bat cablel. pull the fuse out. put one lead of your ohm meter on the read wire at the ign switch, the other lead at the fuse terminal.




your battery can't be ruled out until its tested. if one cell is shorted internally, its won't work even with another battery jumpered to it. the shorted battery sucks all the power the good battery supplies.

tech2

you could also jumper 12v to the ignition switch reds wires. if everything powers up. the problems is the feed from the fuse box to the switch.