Cobalt SS/SC no start issue
February 4th, 2016, 1:05 PM
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Cobalt SS/SC no start issue
This is a bit long winded so bear with me.
Bought this car in July and since day one it has been a total pita.
12 hours after bringing the car home, it wouldnt start. Security light was on, gauges would go crazy and "POWER STEERING" and "LOW FUEL" popped up on the I/P. Eventually it would start and act normal. But randomly it would repeat the problem over and over. After making trip after trip to the dealer i bought it from, and having random parts replaced with no true diagnosing (2 ignition switches, 1 bcm) I found that by disconnecting the 5 pin connector for the Electric Power steering the problem would go away. (drove around for 3 weeks with no power steering to confirm it) And the day is plugged it back in, the car went haywire again. So not sure what to do about that.
Other recent problem. Car has been in winter storage, and it has refused to start since around december. Turn the key on and the ABS light and traction control light stay on. try to start it and you get a click from underneath the dash (not the starter) Checked the battery voltage (11.69) brought the battery home and charged it. was able to eventually charge it up to 12.8 volts. Put the battery back in the car, and suddenly the battery went down to 12.3 volts (key off) tried starting it again, and the volts dropped to 12.1. I'm hoping the battery has a dead cell. All fuses are fine and im getting consistent voltage from both the battery terminals, and the terminal in the fuse box under the hood. Should I take the battery to get load tested?
Bought this car in July and since day one it has been a total pita.
12 hours after bringing the car home, it wouldnt start. Security light was on, gauges would go crazy and "POWER STEERING" and "LOW FUEL" popped up on the I/P. Eventually it would start and act normal. But randomly it would repeat the problem over and over. After making trip after trip to the dealer i bought it from, and having random parts replaced with no true diagnosing (2 ignition switches, 1 bcm) I found that by disconnecting the 5 pin connector for the Electric Power steering the problem would go away. (drove around for 3 weeks with no power steering to confirm it) And the day is plugged it back in, the car went haywire again. So not sure what to do about that.
Other recent problem. Car has been in winter storage, and it has refused to start since around december. Turn the key on and the ABS light and traction control light stay on. try to start it and you get a click from underneath the dash (not the starter) Checked the battery voltage (11.69) brought the battery home and charged it. was able to eventually charge it up to 12.8 volts. Put the battery back in the car, and suddenly the battery went down to 12.3 volts (key off) tried starting it again, and the volts dropped to 12.1. I'm hoping the battery has a dead cell. All fuses are fine and im getting consistent voltage from both the battery terminals, and the terminal in the fuse box under the hood. Should I take the battery to get load tested?
February 5th, 2016, 8:52 AM
#3
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I found that by disconnecting the 5 pin connector for the Electric Power steering the problem would go away. (drove around for 3 weeks with no power steering to confirm it) And the day is plugged it back in, the car went haywire again. So not sure what to do about that.
You need to check the wire harness for any pinching, cuts or shorts...
IF you disconnected it at the power steering motor I would suspect the motor or control has an internal short...might also check the connector ends for any bent pins or pushed in connectors, or debris in the connectors themselves...
February 6th, 2016, 1:29 AM
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Had the battery tested. Still putting out 594 CCA's. I wont be taking the car out of storage for another month, so diagnosing the problem is gonna have to wait for a little while. The fact that the abs and traction light are on is throwing me a curveball. If those two systems failed would it prevent the car from starting?
February 7th, 2016, 12:45 PM
#7
you need a full function scan tool to read body and abs codes. a code reader won't do it.
I assume the power steering motor recall have been completed by the dealer?
I assume the power steering motor recall have been completed by the dealer?
Last edited by tech2; February 7th, 2016 at 12:47 PM.
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March 4th, 2016, 10:20 PM
#9
need to know what modules the codes were set in
the can bus has lost communication. make sure you have all modules plugged in.
the power steering module is part of this bus circuit. the bus uses a daisy chain configuration so if one module is disconnected all modules behind it will not communicate. the psm is the first module in the chain. make sure it has power and grd. does the fuse you pulled also power the module. if yes, put the fuse back in, clear the dtc and see what codes reset and note which modules the codes are setting in.
I need to know which modules are communicating and which are not. Use the tech2 to find out.
next you need to check the terminating resistance of the bus circuit to ensure its intact.
disconnect the negative battery terminal
connect an ohmmeter across pin 14 tan and pin 6 tan/blk at the dlc. a good bus should have 60ohms. What do you have? google diagnostic connector link if you need a pinout...its where you plug the scan tool in.
the can bus has lost communication. make sure you have all modules plugged in.
the power steering module is part of this bus circuit. the bus uses a daisy chain configuration so if one module is disconnected all modules behind it will not communicate. the psm is the first module in the chain. make sure it has power and grd. does the fuse you pulled also power the module. if yes, put the fuse back in, clear the dtc and see what codes reset and note which modules the codes are setting in.
I need to know which modules are communicating and which are not. Use the tech2 to find out.
next you need to check the terminating resistance of the bus circuit to ensure its intact.
disconnect the negative battery terminal
connect an ohmmeter across pin 14 tan and pin 6 tan/blk at the dlc. a good bus should have 60ohms. What do you have? google diagnostic connector link if you need a pinout...its where you plug the scan tool in.
Last edited by tech2; March 4th, 2016 at 10:31 PM.