GRRR Cruse Control not working
#1
GRRR Cruse Control not working
I am having an issue with my cruse control. starting last tuesday last week it just started working intermittently. and now for the past two days it has not worked at all,
ive checked the breaks lights, ive tried pulling up on the break pedal to see if that helped but nope,
im curious does anyone know if there is more then one switch in the break switch itself? i went to go look at it lastnight but it was too dark and its way up in the dash. so i figured i would ask to see if anyone thinks it may be the issue before i go and dig it out.
if anyone could shed some light on this for me, it would be much appreciated
thank you in advanced
ive checked the breaks lights, ive tried pulling up on the break pedal to see if that helped but nope,
im curious does anyone know if there is more then one switch in the break switch itself? i went to go look at it lastnight but it was too dark and its way up in the dash. so i figured i would ask to see if anyone thinks it may be the issue before i go and dig it out.
if anyone could shed some light on this for me, it would be much appreciated
thank you in advanced
#3
I have an experience on my son’s girlfriend’s car,
That the last paid (thief) mechanic that worked on this car, broke the cable linkage at the throttle body, did not repair it and it went unnoticed until I informed the owner of the issue.
The reason that I am calling this guy a thief, was that he had charged close to $400 to find and fix the cars stalling issue, where he missed the diagnose the problem, did not fix the original problem, did some work on or near the throttle body, in the process of this work, broke the cable linkage on the cruise control, did not repair his mistake the wrote on the invoice, "If problem still exists, may need further diagnosis”, and return the car and his bill to the owner.
I have since fixed the stalling problem; it was a bad fuel pump, and a bad installation from a previous mechanic. This guy installed an aftermarket pump and had to change the electrical connector. In the work of changing this connector, crimped on butt splices were used. These connections were not crimped, but crushed. Two of the four wires failed due to metal fatigue, and became intermittent. I fixed this by removal of the butt splices and hard soldering and heat shrink tubing the connections.
Four weeks later, the problem started again, I had to replace that aftermarket pump with an OEM pump and replace back the OEM connector. This aftermarket pump when running had good pressure, but would at random time would stall and require a mechanical shock to get it to run again.
That the last paid (thief) mechanic that worked on this car, broke the cable linkage at the throttle body, did not repair it and it went unnoticed until I informed the owner of the issue.
The reason that I am calling this guy a thief, was that he had charged close to $400 to find and fix the cars stalling issue, where he missed the diagnose the problem, did not fix the original problem, did some work on or near the throttle body, in the process of this work, broke the cable linkage on the cruise control, did not repair his mistake the wrote on the invoice, "If problem still exists, may need further diagnosis”, and return the car and his bill to the owner.
I have since fixed the stalling problem; it was a bad fuel pump, and a bad installation from a previous mechanic. This guy installed an aftermarket pump and had to change the electrical connector. In the work of changing this connector, crimped on butt splices were used. These connections were not crimped, but crushed. Two of the four wires failed due to metal fatigue, and became intermittent. I fixed this by removal of the butt splices and hard soldering and heat shrink tubing the connections.
Four weeks later, the problem started again, I had to replace that aftermarket pump with an OEM pump and replace back the OEM connector. This aftermarket pump when running had good pressure, but would at random time would stall and require a mechanical shock to get it to run again.