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Engine Building & Overhauling All you ever wanted to know about building and rebuilding engines in here! Remember to post your model-specific questions in the correct section.


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  #1  
Old 06-01-2010, 04:16 AM
CF Junior Member
1979 Chevrolet Blazer
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 68
Default sealing head bolts

hi,just wondering ,when reffiting head bolts in chevy block,what type of sealant should be used to stop coolant escaping. is regular threadlock ok?im thinking probly not
sorry ,think i posted this in the wrong place!
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Last edited by jason.t.h; 06-01-2010 at 04:30 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2010, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
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I would suggest replacing all your head and exhaust manifold bolts while doing this. It will look good and you know your threads haven't stretched. A good bolt kit comes with thread locker already on them. AutoZone carries some good brands. I have not done it myself, but have heard older Chevy guys say a stainless bolt on the exhaust headers will keep from rusting and hold better. I just used good grade 8 bolts and washers that the local hardware store matched to my old ones.
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2010, 02:36 PM
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Here is part of the procedure covering reinstalation. If you can afford the new bolts get them, if not clean the threads on the bolts and run a tap through the holes in the block. I just use RTV on the threads and tighten according to specs.


Pushrods MUST be returned to their original locations.
  1. Remove the cylinder head bolts one at a time, and mark them or keep them in order, as they should go back in their original locations. You may need a flex bar on your socket, or a piece of pipe on your ratchet, as the bolts are under a lot of torque.
  2. Remove the cylinder head, along with the gasket. If the head seems tuck to the block, gently tap around the edge of the head with a rubber mallet until the joint breaks. NEVER pry between the head and block as you may gouge one or the other. Often it is necessary to carefully scrape the top of the engine block and the cylinder head to completely remove the gasket.
  3. Clean the bottom of the head and top of block thoroughly before reinstalling the head. Place a new gasket over the dowel pin in the top of the block.

Different types of head gaskets are available. If you are using a steel/asbestos composition gasket, do not use gasket sealer.
  1. Lower the cylinder head carefully onto the block, over the dowel pins and gasket.
  2. Coat the heads and threads of the cylinder head bolts with sealing compound, GM part No. 1052080 or equivalent, and install finger tight.
  3. Tighten the heads bolts gradually in three stages, following the sequence illustrated, to the specification listed under Torque Specifications.
  4. Install the pushrods in the exact location from which they were removed. Make sure they are seated in their lifter sockets.
  5. Swing the rocker arms over into the correct position. Tighten the rocker arms until all pushrod play is taken up.
  6. Install the manifold assembly, using new gaskets. Tighten the manifold(s) to the specified torque.
  7. Reverse the remainder of the removal procedure for installation. Adjust the valves, following the procedure in this section. Use a new gasket or high temperature sealer when installing the rocker arm cover.
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:53 PM
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1979 Chevrolet Blazer
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 68
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thanks for that,especially the gm part number for the sealant!
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2010, 12:13 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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I recently changed the cyl. head bolt set to upgrades stainless steel. The kit I bought included stainless steel studs. And these studs do not rust out like the stock pieces and will save me the agony of removing snapped studs..

Last edited by mikeross; 06-28-2010 at 11:55 PM.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2010, 05:18 AM
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HI There. I had the same on my 1995 Grand Cherokee. Had the dealers replace the pinion seal and it fixed the leak. 12 months later had a bad nasty sound like a wheel bering going. Went to a local garage (no jeep dealer) and he said that it sounded like when they replaced the pinion seal they put the rattle gun on the nut and over tightened it and put too much per-load on the pinion bearings. It is important that the right tension is applied to the nut.
Upon stripping the diff we found that this was the case, the dealer workshop had over tightened the pinion yoke nut. This has the same effect on the bearings as it would have on a set of wheel bearings being over tightened.
So be carefull of getting the seal fitted by a guy who knows what he is doing.
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:18 AM
 
 
 
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