GOFOAD

I just spent over 2 hours doing 4 spark plugs on my 1997 Express Conversion van! I have already read here about the ridiculous set-up and accessibility of the plugs. My hands are a mess all scratched up and grimy. i feel like a Cirque de Soliel performer the positions I was in. For anybody who will be attempting this job I have a couple of tips that will help. first the plugs under the cowl. The best way to tackle them is to loosen the bracket that holds the wires in place, this will give your hand better access and is only 1 bolt. Also wrap the spark plug socket in duct tape to give it grip because you will have to start off with just the plug and socket. Once you hand tighten it then the ratchet will barely fit. If you have a ratchet with a release button on the back then you can push that button in while pushing the ratchet onto the socket because there is no room to apply torque in the little room you have. The front 2 are actually quite easy once you take the wheel and flexible inner fender off. I think my frustration is higher because I am too stubborn to take it to a Mechanic and pay a couple of hours labour for something that on any other vehicle would be 30 minutes. Also I thought i was being smart by getting my vehicle oil-sprayed. I look like most of the oil is now on me. Ah the joys of wrenching on our trucks. I also have a 1997 Jeep Tj and that straight 6 4.0 is soooo easy to access anything that i will mess with it out of sheer joy. End of rant.

dberladyn

Luckily they are 100k or 160k plugs right? Out of curiousity, do you use a socket, universal joint, then the rachet? Or does that combination even fit. Should be a few years away for me, but just curious.... thanks for sharing.

canucklehead

I thought you get all 8 from the wheel well.....When you raise the body with a jack and pull the wheel you get more room.....but the rear plugs can also be done from inside....
I hope you used iriduim plugs......thats what it calls for....not double platinum.

GOFOAD

Iridium plugs yes. Universal joint won't fit. Standing on your head helps(lol) It is a challenge that's for sure. But so satisfying to not pay a shop hundreds in labour and as one person stated probably getting less than 8 plugs changed.

dberladyn

I just wanted to say thanks for posting this thread. When the time comes, I am going to refer to it. Hopefully I'll have a jack to try that option.

GOFOAD

So I finished those nasty plugs Wednesday and today went searching in the depths of the Garage for the cap and roter I bought a month ago. Of course I couldn't find it and ended up getting another today. That was easy to install because it is right in front of you in-between the seats under the cowl which is still off, Finished it off with a lube, oil and oil filter easy peasy. Fire her up and She stalls out as soon as she is under load. DAMMIT!!! Attach the code reader and now i get- Mass air-flow sensor low air flow. So I take it all apart and gently clean it and re-install. No change. Now i have ordered a new mass air-flow sensor. Will this ever end? I am supposed to leave for the long weekend to go camping, but now am delayed until the Beast is happy and running.

canucklehead

Keep the old cap and rotor as a spare.....the 8 points under the cap get oxidation on them, then they start to arc a bit.....once bad enough say after a few years.....you will start getting weak spark, and misfires......I take mine off once a years and emery cloth them.....the rotor too.

jimmyblue

You need to distinguish between low airflow reading,
like you say, and low (stuck) output. The latter might
be from a blown ENG SEN fuse or a harness fault. If
you have a DMM which reads frequency, or a scan
tool which will tell you the frequency the PCM sees,
that can help. But to begin with check the IGN and
the output (soft pullup to 5V) voltages at the MAF
connector while inspecting pins mechanically.

GOFOAD

had my mechanic come over and take a look and He was stumped. He came back the next day with his diagnostic computer. It wasn't even reading the mass air flow sensor. His friend suggested he re-flash the computer. That did the trick. I still occasionally (especially after she sits overnight) can't start it without a shot of Surestart down her throat so i believe there is a loss of fuel pressure in a valve somewhere. Please don't tell me to change the fuel pump, i did that twice in my safari van in 4 years. And no i don't let it run low on fuel and starve the pump. I learned that lesson with my first Astro van years ago. I took her to Fergus, Ontario for the Scottish festival and she ran like a champ, but still needed a shot of Surestart after sitting for 2 days.

canucklehead

If you hear it prime for a couple seconds when you turn on the key then its not likely fuel. Also, running low on fuel all the time doesn't starve the pump, it allows the pump to run hot longer and that shortens its life.