BlackValleyLogisticsCo

Hello,

This is my first post in this forum, sorry that it has to be a negative one. I have a 2000 GMC Savana 3500 with a front driver brake issue. The problem occurs when I brake the vehicle tugs toward the left.

I took it to my mechanic who told me that the caliper was pressing on the brake too hard for some reason. He drained the brake lines and replaced the caliper but the problem still continues. This was done twice.

If this problem continues the brake will overheat and burn through the wheel bearings which will in turn cause the brake to lock up or worse the detachment of the wheel. All of which can go down south when driving, especially with a full load (i own a small logistics company). This unfortunately has happened to me twice.

Obviously this is dangerous and at the very least a pain to have to deal with. I did some searches for this issue in the forums but didn't find anything. If anyone has any expertise or a link that will provide anymore information I would be greatly appreciative.

canucklehead

The pins the caliper float on can get clogged with crud and the caliper wont float all the way. Then only the inner pad is doing the work. If it pulls to the left..I'd check the right side......
Also, always replace calipers wheel cylinders wheel bearings seals etc.....on both sides at a time....not just one.

BlackValleyLogisticsCo

So what might have happened at first was a clog of those pins. Every time after that only replacing that side that malfunctioned and neglecting the other was just going to lead to a perpetuating issue?

I guess that means full a frontal brake job is in my near future.

tech2

checking the right side is a good idea. it may be seized and applying no braking at all. Another possibility is the left flex hose is restricting fluid movement out of the caliper...acting like a one way check valve.

a easy way to diagnose where the problem lies is to test drive and measure all the brake rotor temps with a I/R heat gun.

BlackValleyLogisticsCo

In diagnosing with the heat gun, is there a specific temperature range I should look for, or is the issue brought to light by whichever one is grossly hotter than the other?

For instance if the left side, which I believe to be apply the most pressure to the rotor, is hotter how would I know whether or not the caliper is applying too much pressure and the other a normal amount. Or if the left side is apply normal pressure and the right side is not applying enough?

canucklehead

basically if one side is way cooler than its the one doing nothing.....
Also how are the rear drums?

BlackValleyLogisticsCo

Rear brakes aren't so good. Maybe a week ago I had to replace a broken leaf spring. The mechanic then explained that I needed some work on the rear brakes. For the purposes of trying to go about this issue the best way, I called the mechanic again to ask what was needed. He stated:

1. Both rear brake shoes
2. Brake shoe hardware kit
3. Hardware kit to hold shoes together
4. Self adjuster shoes.
5. Two rear cylinders
6. Drums.

So basically everything.

tech2

if the shoes are not adjusted equally, it will cause a brake pull. the caliper overheating is a priority. after, the rear must also be addressed and all parts of the automatic adjusters must work.

BlackValleyLogisticsCo

After a 15 minute test drive:

315.6 degrees for left side driver side
119.8 degrees for right side passenger side

Ill need to get my right side checked for sure. Just need to make sure that front is operating evenly. Then the rear.

Thanks for the advice folks!

canucklehead

I called it.....lol.
That is why you change both sides.....