2008 express van 6.0 turn key to start will not send power to starter - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

2008 express van 6.0 turn key to start will not send power to starter


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Randall Kogelman's Avatar
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March 28th, 2011, 12:25 PM   #1  
2008 express van 6.0 turn key to start will not send power to starter

I have a 2008 express van 6.0 When you turn the key to start it will not send power to starter. I have replaced the starter. thats not the problem you can jump the starter from under the van and it will start. Help.

 
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March 28th, 2011, 2:59 PM   #2  
I am having the same problem with my 02 express van. When I hold the key in the on position sometimes it starts right off. Then sometime I have to hold the key in the on position for up to a couple of minutes before it decides to turn over and start. There is an electronic box behind where the key actually goes in. Which when the key is inserted into the ignition switch and the contacts are made it sends the signal to the ignition system and other areas. The only thing is which part is causing to problem b/c the electrical box is 100.00 and a the ignition switch is 60.00 at advanced auto. This may or may not fix it though b/c the electrical systems in the Vans have been known to be difficult to diagnose. Could just be a bad ground somewhere and as you may have figured out these vans are tight under the hood. Any advice from all you guru's would be greatly appreciated.

 
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March 28th, 2011, 5:45 PM   #3  
Posted By: Randall Kogelman I have a 2008 express van 6.0 When you turn the key to start it will not send power to starter. I have replaced the starter. thats not the problem you can jump the starter from under the van and it will start. Help.
Welcome to the forum. On yours, the starter solenoid is powered through fusible link 2, Crank relay 73, and then 40A Starter Solenoid fuse 64, all under the hood. The ECM energizes the Crank relay with the key in start and PNP switch closed (i.e., transmission in park or neutral). Trace the path with a multimeter?

Posted By: labman1177 I am having the same problem with my 02 express van. When I hold the key in the on position sometimes it starts right off. Then sometime I have to hold the key in the on position for up to a couple of minutes before it decides to turn over and start. There is an electronic box behind where the key actually goes in. Which when the key is inserted into the ignition switch and the contacts are made it sends the signal to the ignition system and other areas. The only thing is which part is causing to problem b/c the electrical box is 100.00 and a the ignition switch is 60.00 at advanced auto. This may or may not fix it though b/c the electrical systems in the Vans have been known to be difficult to diagnose. Could just be a bad ground somewhere and as you may have figured out these vans are tight under the hood. Any advice from all you guru's would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the forum to you, too. I'm a little confused by your problem description, though. By "the key in the on position," you mean the key in START? And, by "up to a couple of minutes before it decides to turn over and start," it cranks but doesn't catch for that long?

 
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November 4th, 2011, 2:50 PM   #4  
Posted By: EinST Welcome to the forum. On yours, the starter solenoid is powered through fusible link 2, Crank relay 73, and then 40A Starter Solenoid fuse 64, all under the hood. The ECM energizes the Crank relay with the key in start and PNP switch closed (i.e., transmission in park or neutral). Trace the path with a multimeter?
I'm having a similar problem that I can not locate on my '00 Express Van. I went to start the van yesterday and the van started but the starter would not disengage. In face, when I turned the key off it stayed engaged for about 3 or 4 seconds before it stopped. This happened 3 or 4 times. I figured the "bendix" was sticking so I bought a new starter. After replacing the starter now it won't turn over at all, no clicking just nothing. All the electrical components (horn, lights, radio) are working with the exception of the transmission position indicator lights.

I turned the key to the on position and shorted the starter to turn the motor over but it would not start. I verified all the fuses were good and I replaced the starter relay as well. I also checked the fusebable link cable and it is ok.

I had a PNP switch go out on a '00 Chevy 2500 Diesel but it seems too coincidental that this would be the problem at the same time I had the starter dis-engagement problem. Is here a way to bypass the PNP switch to check that part?

Thoughts?


Last edited by MNellis; November 4th, 2011 at 2:55 PM.
 
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November 5th, 2011, 4:35 PM   #5  
Welcome to the forum. You'd have had to disconnect the battery when you replaced the starter? If so, you may want to check the cable connections. Also, on yours, the starter solenoid is powered through the main fusible link, 40A IGN-A fuse under the hood, ignition switch, 10A CRANK fuse in the I/P fuse block, PNP switch, and then STARTER relay. You may want to check the voltage at the IGN-A fuse and then at the CRANK fuse with key in START. If you find that the voltage at the CRANK fuse is low or absent, the ignition switch may be shot.

 
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November 6th, 2011, 6:29 PM   #6  
Posted By: EinST Welcome to the forum. You'd have had to disconnect the battery when you replaced the starter? If so, you may want to check the cable connections. Also, on yours, the starter solenoid is powered through the main fusible link, 40A IGN-A fuse under the hood, ignition switch, 10A CRANK fuse in the I/P fuse block, PNP switch, and then STARTER relay. You may want to check the voltage at the IGN-A fuse and then at the CRANK fuse with key in START. If you find that the voltage at the CRANK fuse is low or absent, the ignition switch may be shot.
Thanks for the comments, it's appreciated. I ran out of time and, reluctantly, I had it towed to the dealer on Sat. You are correct, I did disconnect the cable for the starter and the terminal end of the + cable was corroded and partially eaten away. I knew this but It was working the previous day and I was able to short the bendix to get the starter to turn over so I put off repairing the cable until later. Additionally, the lights worked fine as did all the other electrical except for the light on the transmission gear position indicator.

When you say "starter solenoid" are you referring to the engagement solenoid on the starter itself? I checked the 10A crank and 40A fuses you mentioned and they were good.

It's a mute point now since it's at the dealer but I was leaning towards the PNP switch since I had a problem with this part on my Dodge Diesel.

I'll let you know what you dealer comes up with. I will guarantee the dealer will look at the battery terminal and say it has to be replaced. Unfortunately, I'm sure they'll want to replace the whole cable and unwilling to just fix the terminal end. I won't like it but this is our restaurant van and I don't have the time to mess with it in the parking lot.

Thanks again.


Last edited by MNellis; November 6th, 2011 at 6:31 PM.
 
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November 6th, 2011, 7:17 PM   #7  
Oh, well, I hope they do right by you. It's better to replace the battery cable than put a new end on it which is a nightmare from the engineering standpoint. The starter solenoid is, of course, on the starter. As for the fuses, I assumed they weren't blown and thus I was more interested in the voltage levels.

 
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November 9th, 2011, 8:33 AM   #8  
Posted By: EinST Oh, well, I hope they do right by you. It's better to replace the battery cable than put a new end on it which is a nightmare from the engineering standpoint. The starter solenoid is, of course, on the starter. As for the fuses, I assumed they weren't blown and thus I was more interested in the voltage levels.
After having the van towed to the dealer, the dealer was able to get the van started after messing with it then drive it into the building. They replaced the starter cable that was badly corroded at the battery terminal end and said they also replaced a blown 40a IGN A fuse.

I know the fuse wasn't blown when it got there and it could not have been blown if they were able to start it but, either way, after replacing the cable it starts fine.

As I thought, the cable was pretty expensive at $161.

Thanks again for all your comments and help.

Mike

 
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November 9th, 2011, 12:45 PM   #9  
You're quite welcome. It does get expensive when you're a captive audience. That's why I check the battery cables carefully whenever I replace batteries.

 
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December 2nd, 2011, 9:49 AM   #10  
starter not disengaging

Have a 2008 Express 3500, 296,000 mi. and recently starter not disengaging when the key is released. Replaced starter yesterday because I thought that was the culprit, but upon second starting, it did not disengage again until I turned off the key and tried a few more times. Could it be the switch? If so, can I, with limited mechanical ability, check and fix? Thanks

 
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