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2008 express van 6.0 turn key to start will not send power to starter

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Old December 2nd, 2011, 5:30 PM
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Welcome to the forum. This thread has nothing to do with "starter not disengaging." You may want to start a new thread with the question in this same section, i.e., go to Express & G-Series Vans - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums and then click New Thread.
Old September 13th, 2016, 4:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Randall Kogelman
I have a 2008 express van 6.0 When you turn the key to start it will not send power to starter. I have replaced the starter. thats not the problem you can jump the starter from under the van and it will start. Help.
I too have same problem on a 2007 Express 3500 with 6.0L engine, as follows.........
When engaging key, starter cranking circuit appears to be non-powered upon initial startup attempt; starter engages and cranks on 2nd attempt but stops cranking (after 4 seconds of cranking), then starts normally on 3rd or 4th attempt.

Systematically replaced all battery cables, battery (twice), starter and solenoid, ignition switch, added new grounds to chassis and to body.

While in “failure to engage starter” mode or “lack of cranking” mode, with key “ON”……..
1. Dash lights and accessories appear to work normal
2. A/C fan works normal
3. Headlights appear “on” and normal
4. Windows power down/up as normal
5. Tail lights, turn signals, & emergency flashers work as normal
6. Radio works
7. Key in “ignition-door open” alarm (engine not operating) works as normal

ABS lite now “ON” with no blown fuses and no codes. This may be a coincidental new problem after above checked and replaced. ABS 60 amp fuse and relay are “OK”.

Any suggestions????
Old October 5th, 2016, 6:41 PM
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Doc Willis

Hi. I just started experiencing this exact problem yesterday.. Were you able to resolve it?
Old October 6th, 2016, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by labman1177
I am having the same problem with my 02 express van. When I hold the key in the on position sometimes it starts right off. Then sometime I have to hold the key in the on position for up to a couple of minutes before it decides to turn over and start. There is an electronic box behind where the key actually goes in. Which when the key is inserted into the ignition switch and the contacts are made it sends the signal to the ignition system and other areas. The only thing is which part is causing to problem b/c the electrical box is 100.00 and a the ignition switch is 60.00 at advanced auto. This may or may not fix it though b/c the electrical systems in the Vans have been known to be difficult to diagnose. Could just be a bad ground somewhere and as you may have figured out these vans are tight under the hood. Any advice from all you guru's would be greatly appreciated.
I relocated RV chassis battery 15’ into the coach battery compartment for ease of replacement, back in April (crowded area around battery especially since that is where my H20 fuel assist system resides) and started having problems in June…initially dragging starter on attempts 1~3 and then it will crank normal therefore starts immediately.
After a lot of reading and a trip to dealer I replaced the starter, ALL the battery cables using 2/0 welding cable on main run, terminated all connections with pressed on copper end terminals (using proper tool --- a 10 ton press), installed 3 new additional grounding cables at various points of pickup on engine and frame, replaced the ignition switch behind/next-to the keyed start switch, replaced the 750 CCA battery twice after the dealer suggested that it too was bad, and now as of this morning replaced the battery for the 3rd time with an Optima 950 CCA battery.

I'm still working on same problems although symptoms keep changing with ABS light now on …. No blown fuses, sensors read OK so I cleaned crap out of the sensor areas; this is considered a coincidental problem and not related to lack of cranking problem. As of this morning, engine cranks immediately, then dies and stays running on second attempt for which I can live with that. All dash lights, headlights and taillights work as normal except my “P” and “N” selector indicators are not underscored as with the remaining transmission selections therefore I am wondering if the P-N-P neutral safety switch on the transmission needs replacement (?).

Also, you should try Rock Auto for cheapest prices, better than Parts Geek and you can select OEM or aftermarket versions for 30%~40% of Autozone/O’Reiley/NAPA parts stored and their delivery is quick.
Old October 6th, 2016, 12:09 PM
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Read my reply to other(s) just posted.....
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