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Chevy Express Cruise intermittently will not come on. Electric Brake issue

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Old May 5th, 2016, 2:11 AM
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Default Chevy Express Cruise intermittently will not come on. Electric Brake issue

For those seeking what causes this issue. In my case this is on a 2010 Chevy Express 3500

For some reason when this problem first appeared it happened when the air temperature was cold. After driving a short time and things warmed up, including the cabin compartment the problem would go away. But it eventually progresses and gets worse until you can't use the cruise. If you have a trailer on you have to keep bumping the back of the brake pedal to release the trailer brakes. If you have you trailer brakes set low and don't feel the drag you will be burning up your trailer brakes. I never checked to see if my van's brake lights were lit up while this was happening but have to assume they were?

Symptom #1. Cruise Intermittently will not come on when traveling at a normal speed.
Symptom #2. This may only be known to those with a Trailer Brake Controller. After braking and removing your foot from the brake pedal the trailer brake controllers indicator light is on showing it is applying braking. If your trailer is hooked up while this is occurring the electric brakes of the trailer will be engaged and dragging whether you feel it or not.

Troubleshooting
When either symptom presents itself, since this is intermittent, try the following. With your toe, catch the back of the brake pedal and pull it toward you. If your Cruise Control will engage after that, or your brake controller "braking indicator light" goes out, or you feel the electric brakes of your trailer release. Suspect a defective brake light switch. It is a cheap fix if you do it yourself.

The Fix
I ordered my Brake Light Switch from Amazon with free shipping for under $13. It came in two days and was an AC DELCO.
The switch is located above the brake pedal arm, attached to that arm, under the dash. This isn't easy working in the cramped space.
Remove the single bolt thru a metal retaining clip
Remove the metal retaining clip (Learning curve on that)
Pull the switch off the master cylinder linkage
This should free up the switch to enable you to look at the wiring harness connector
Push up the tiny red locking tab of the connector (Push it Toward the wires to unlock - A paperclip or tiny screwdriver might assist)
The connector is still locked in with the additional snap in type lock on the side of the connector. Carefully work the connector out without snapping off that lock
Once you have removed and disconnected the switch, reverse the process, installing the new switch.

Last edited by goyakpacking; January 25th, 2017 at 12:18 PM.




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