wrstllanc

Hello all,

New here to the forum, and looking for some assistance!
As the title suggests, my van failed inspection, and I don't have money to throw down the drain to a mechanic.

Here are the 4 fails:
1. No horn. I knew in advance that it intermittently works, and it just so happens that the horn did not work for the inspector. Simply put, sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't, regardless of how hard or light, or where you apply pressure to the horn.

2. I was told a circuit board was bad. For fail #2, WHEN the HEADLIGHTS are TURNED OFF, both of my rear brake lights (right and left) illuminate the BOTTOM of the 2 "red" lamps. WHEN the HEADLIGHTS are TURNED ON, both of my rear brake lights (right and left) illuminate the TOP of the 2 "red" lamps.

I was told that the brake lights are reversed. I don't know what he means necessarily; I assume, however I've never noticed, that the brake light would switch positions with the headlights on.

Any advice on the normal operating conditions of the brake lights with the headlights turned off, and then on?

3. No heat coming out of defrost. Blatant lie. The heat does work, but he only gave it ~20-30 seconds for the heat to come on. I haven't used the defrost in months, and on the way home from the inspection, within a matter of 1-2 minutes the heat worked on defrost setting.

4. Left-Rear drum was ceased on, so he couldn't inspect the brakes for said location, therefore, brakes were failed. Was further told brakes needed replacing within a couple of weeks time, but he couldn't currently fail them.

My questions to you all would be:
1. How would I go about diagnosing my horn issue?
2. What are the normal operating conditions of the rear brake lights when headlights are on/off? (refer to #2 above)
3. How do I "un-cease a drum" so the brakes become inspect-able?

Thanks, all!
Mike

KChevy75

1. Bad contact in the steering wheel possibly. Disassemble steering wheel to inspect. Read up on this as there's an airbag in there and you don't want to trigger it accidentally.


2. Google search "2002 Chevrolet Express Van Stoplights Inop / Erratic". Otherwise, this may just be how the daytime running lights operate on this vehicle.


3. BFH. Big F&%$ing Hammer. You have to first back off the adjuster so the shoes aren't catching on the lip and holding it on. Also apply some penetrating oil around the studs and where the drum slips around the axle so it can get behind them and help loosen things up. Tap with a hammer all around the face then wiggle. It should start coming loose. There are several youtube videos on this process.

wrstllanc

Thank you so much for the fast reply. Especially for #2. I was thinking BFH was the response to number 3, and number 1 was what I assume seeing as it's intermittent versus not working completely. Thanks again!

canucklehead

On the horn check the ground first. Bad ground = no or crappy horn. Could also be the horn itself which is cheap to replace.
The upper rear lights are the brake lights, and the lower are the running lights. Make sure you have the right bulbs and no ground shorts. The 2 filament bulbs are bad if on filament breaks and touches the other.....causes weird issues.
On the drum, the inside can stick to the hub......once all de-adjusted you will have to bang on it to loosen it. Once off, make sure you clean up inside that centre opening, and apply anti-seize when putting them back on.

goyakpacking

Agree on all. Addition to 3. Make sure you adjust your brake shoes in so they don't catch (as someone suggested), and if the oil and BFH doesn't do the trick....or you are pounding so hard you might break something, use a drum puller/wheel puller. With a puller apply some pressure and tap all around the studs and the drum area around the end of axle while applying the penetrating oil.

Some parts stores have pullers that you can rent or sign out and use for free.