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Dash light remain on constantly 24/7

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Old May 11th, 2016, 4:12 PM
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Default FIXED: Dash light remain on constantly 24/7 (found the problem)

I have a problem and I have had it since October / November / December / January when my life started blowing apart. All of my dash lights, with the exception of the gauges remain lit 24/7. I remember noting it after making a change on the truck, but I can't remember what that was. Even further, I have no means of switching two changed parts back because they are at a location I am not legally allowed to return to. My original HVAC switch and my original headlamp switch. Unplugging both of these does not solve the problem. Reinstalling the original radio does not solve the problem. Currently I cannot think of any other changes except for the dealership reprogramming the truck for a compass module they could not turn on because I have Onstar. I suppose my next move will be unplugging that module. From what I understand from memory, is that the BCM controls those lights. So something is triggering the BCM to deliver power to that lighting circuit. I have so much going on I cannot deal with this. I am asking for your help because it is crippling me. My batteries continually die, which literally blows fixing all of the overwhelming problems in my life out of the water. Does anyone have any ideas? Have you seen this before? Those lights would be enough to drain a battery would they not? Especially with a cell charger or two? I've eliminated everything I can, I just can't find what causes those lights to stay on.

Thank you.

Last edited by dberladyn; May 20th, 2016 at 12:05 AM.
Old May 15th, 2016, 9:24 AM
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Well, this is a common problem people ask about on the net, but I do not see many solutions. I'm trying to jog my memory, I never cut factory wires so that's not going to be the problem.

I came up with a theory that if the BCM sees changes it has a program to turn on those lights on 24/7 and drain your battery intentionally as a Tell-Tale to GM. The BCM controls the lights, there is no fuse from the BCM to the lights. I've tried pulling two fuses that possibly feed the BCM power for that circuit and the lights remain on. I found that tip from GM on a different make and year. The idea is to pull those fuses and see if the circuit is fed elsewhere, but I can't confirm those two fuses actually feed the BCM in regard to that circuit.

This is anything but a lovely problem to have as the truck cannot be operated reliably. I don't even know if the battery is wrecked now, it doesn't hold a charge if it's left connected, but it will if disconnected.

It's too bad I cannot unplug those IP wires from the BCM connector with no damage. They use a tiny connector for this where it's too difficult to pull the wire out. Another tell tale I imagine. I do not cut wires so my head is wracked with what to do with this. Lots of people on the internet seem to have a similar problem. Many Chevy's, many other makes.
Old May 15th, 2016, 11:21 AM
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It's a common problem.. I'm just reading here, other GM vehicles at time have this problem with a door latch sensor/wire. This causes the lights to stay on which I find odd, because why would your door lights stay on 24/7 if the door was open 24/7? I would think GM would code in something to shut those lights off after a door was left ajar for over an hour. I'm going to look for that.


EDIT: Scratch that. The DIC would show door ajar if the above was true. I either need to put the original HVAC switch back in, put the original headlamp switch back in or have the BCM reset. The Dealerwship would do that for me, they were helping me as I was doing this stuff before. Unless there is something else causing the BCM to throw those lights on...

Last edited by dberladyn; May 15th, 2016 at 12:12 PM.
Old May 18th, 2016, 5:44 PM
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I know my driver's door latch doesn't trigger the system like it should. Many times I will open the door and the radio will stay on, etc. I need to take my finger and "jiggle" the latch in the door,then the radio will shut off. BUT, even on our older ones, (2006) the van will automatically shut off the interior lights after about 15 minutes or so. Maybe there is a setting in the ECM that you can turn this feature on or off. So yours might be off, and have a bad latch?
Old May 19th, 2016, 10:02 AM
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No, I can't see it being the latches.

- There are individual two circuits of IP Lights, both stay lit. There's the possibility that there is a pinched wire running directly to the lights being fed a positive 12 volt's from another constant circuit (but I don't beleive this).
- There is a possibility that a control wire to the BCM is grounded, thus telling the BCM to turn the lights on... (I am having a hard time determining this, because any control wires affecting the logistics of the IP Lights cause no issues with other related features).
- Settings in the BCM / DIC (I've tried this, including reseting to factory defaults, it's ruled out)
- RAP or Retained Accessory Power. ( Everything else, Windows, Radio, Etc., work as intended. Have to Rule it Out.)

- Reflash of the BCM. The strongest possibility in my mind is that this is a TellTale for GM. A condition triggered a set programmed/designed fault in the BCM. The BCM locks the lights on, draining the battery and forcing the truck back into a dealership to be hooked to a computer. Would they actually go that route, rather than just throw a Check Engine Light on? I wish those BCM connectors were not so tiny, I would unplug the individual wire so that I cause no damage.

- Bad BCM? I just realized that when I installed the non-factory radio's, I would have hooked up the IP Light circuit via the factory Radio Plug to the Non-Factory Radio Dimmer Light Circuit. I suppose it's possible that the Chinese Android Radio shorted an electronic relay in the BCM? I wonder if that's possible? Back feeding a relay 12v's on a 12v line and causing damage? Or applying a Ground to it and causing damage?


I just wish I could remember exactly when I noted the lights staying on and what change had occured in the truck at the time. I had a tremendous amount of very high priority things going on so... it's nearly impossible to jog my memory.

Last edited by dberladyn; May 19th, 2016 at 10:14 AM.
Old May 19th, 2016, 3:11 PM
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Interior Lighting Systems Description and Operation
The interior lighting consist of two groups; lamps that may not be manually dimmed (Interior Lamps) and lamps that may be dimmed (Interior Lamps Dimming). The first group listed below includes lamps that may not be dimmed:
• Front dome/reading lamps
• Middle dome/reading lamps
• Rear dome/reading lamps
• Sunshade Mirror Lamps
• Underhood Lamp

Interior Lamps Features
The interior lamps system features the following functions:
• An illuminated entry feature that illuminates the courtesy lamps when entering the vehicle or activating the remote keyless entry system.
• An illuminated exit feature that illuminates the courtesy lamps when the ignition key has been removed from the ignition.
• An inadvertent power feature that supplies voltage to all interior lamps after the ignition is turned OFF. The inadvertent power feature will deactivate all interior lamps after 10minutes to prevent battery rundown.
• A theater dimming feature that will slowly dim the interior lamps from full brightness to OFF.
• Individual switches for control of each interior lamp that is not illuminate with the interior lamp switch.

Courtesy Lamps (−YF2/YF7)
When any one of the doors is opened, ground is applied through the door latch door open switch and the door open switch signal circuit to the BCM indicting the door open position. In response to this signal, the BCM then applies battery voltage through the courtesy lamp supply voltage circuits illuminating the courtesy lamps.

Courtesy Lamps (+YF2/YF7)
When any one of the doors is opened, ground is applied through the door latch door open switch and the door open switch signal circuit to the BCM indicting the door open position. In response to this signal, the BCM then applies battery voltage to the courtesy lamp relay control circuit energizing the UPFITTR CTSY LAMPS PCB Relay. With the relay energized. battery voltage is applied through the switch side of the relay and the supply voltage circuits illuminating the courtesy lamps.

Courtesy Lamps Manual Operation
The courtesy lamps can be manually turned ON by the IP dimmer switch. When the dimmer switch is placed in the DOME position, ground is applied through the dimmer switch and the courtesy lamp switch ON signal circuit to the BCM indicating the courtesy lamps ON request. In response to this signal, the BCM then applies battery positive voltage through the courtesy lamp supply voltage circuits illuminating the courtesy lamps listed above. The courtesy lamps ON operation of the dimmer switch will override any BCM operation of the interior lamps already in progress.

Keyless Entry Interior Illumination
When the remote function actuator transmitter is used to unlock the doors, the BCM receives a door-unlock signal. The BCM must have inputs that indicate that the ignition switch is OFF, the courtesy lamp switch is OFF, and all the doors are closed. The BCM will then illuminate the courtesy lamps and will remain illuminated for approximately 25seconds after the door is closed. If the door locks are activated to the LOCK position, or if the ignition switch is turned to either the RUN or START position, the BCM will turn OFF the courtesy lamps immediately.

Courtesy/Illuminated Exit
The illuminated exit feature will activate the courtesy lamps when the key IN input of the BCM transitions from an active state to an inactive state (removing the ignition key). When the key is removed from the ignition, the key IN input to the BCM becomes inactive. The BCM will illuminate the courtesy lamps for approximately 25seconds.

Theater Dimming
The theater dimming feature that will slowly dim the interior lamps from full brightness to OFF. The following actions will over ride the theater dimming feature causing the courtesy lamps to deactivate immediately if no other BCM function commands the courtesy lamps ON:
• A transition from active to inactive of the interior lamps switch, turning OFF the interior lamps switch
• A LOCK command from the remote keyless entry system
• A last door closed locking function, locking and closing all the doors

Underhood Compartment Lamp
The BCM supplies battery positive voltage through the inadvertent power courtesy lamps circuit to the underhood compartment lamp. When the hood is opened, the underhood compartment lamp switch closes to ground and the lamp illuminates.

Dome/Reading Lamps
The dome/reading lamp is a duel purpose lamp that can be illuminated two different ways. First, the lamp can be turned ON during courtesy lamp operation as described above. Second, the lamps can be turned ON individually for reading lamp operation by the lamp switch. The BCM supplies battery voltage through the inadvertent power courtesy lamp circuit to the dome/ reading lamp for reading lamp operation only.

Sunshade Vanity Mirror Lamps
The BCM supplies battery voltage through the inadvertent power courtesy lamps circuit to the left and right vanity mirror lamps. When the vanity mirror cover on the sunshade is opened, the vanity mirror lamp switch is closed to ground and the lamp illuminates.

INTERIOR LAMPS DIMMING (I/P Lamps)
The second interior lighting group includes lamps which may be dimmed. This group may use a combination of vacuum fluorescent (VF) illumination and incandescent lamps.
• Headlamp switch
• Tow/haul switch
• Traction control switch
• HVAC control module
• Driver window switch
• Driver power door lock switch
• Auxiliary blower motor switch
• Front passenger window switch
• Front passenger door lock switch

• Front auxiliary HVAC control assembly (not my option)
• Rear auxiliary HVAC control assembly (not my option)
• Steering wheel controls
• Inflatable restraint I/P module disable switch
• Driver information center (DIC) display switch
• Radio

The radio is a class 2 module and has full control of its illumination. The radio communicates through class 2 serial data for the lamp illumination commands[/COLOR]

When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the instrument panel cluster (IPC), radio VF display, and the HVAC control assembly turns ON at maximum brightness. When the headlamp switch is in the PARK or HEADLAMP ON position, all incandescent and LED back lighting turn ON at the dimming level indicated by the instrument panel (I/P) dimmer switch. The dimmer switch is used to increase and decrease the brightness of the interior backlighting components. The BCM supplies a voltage reference through the I/P dimming voltage reference circuit to the interior lamp dimmer switch, which is part of the headlamp switch. When the dimmer switch is placed in a desired brightness position, reference voltage is applied through the dimmer switch rheostat and the I/P lamps dimmer switch signal circuit to the BCM. The BCM interprets this voltage signal, then applies a pulse width modulated (PWM) voltage through the I/P lamps supply voltage circuits and the LED dimming supply circuit to all related interior backlighting lamps illuminating them to the desired level of brightness.

Battery Rundown Protection / Inadvertent Power
The BCM controls the lighting system through circuits that enable the exterior lamp functions of the park lamps, the head lamps, the fog lamps, and the interior lamps. The BCM opens these enabling circuits 10 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF with no lamp switch activity. If the ignition switch is turned to any position other than OFF, or if a lamp switch is activated during this time period, the timer resets for another 10 minutes.



Something triggers those lamps (highlighted in red) to stay on, or to never turn off.

OK. Some success.

If I disconnect the Rear Fuseblock from it's 12v Supply the lights go out. That helps narrow the problem. I don't think it's a Control Device powered via the Rear Fuse Block grounding the control circuit simply because pulling the BCM1 and the BCM2 Fuse still keeps the lights on. Furthermore, the LED's (the other IP's) are not lit. Therefore I have a backfeed on the circuit. Disconnecting connectors X205, X500, X600 and X318 does not solve the problem. It's either the Rear FuseBox itself or the Body Harness or something not fed through X318... have to think about this.

OK. More Success.

-Removing wire from pin C2 the x52a X1 Connector has the dash lights working properly. Now it's just my door lights staying on because there's a back feed somewhere. Getting closer.

Those lights on the PW and PDL are just LED right? Four LED's should use minimal power. I'm fine with this for now. What a major setback on life this has all been, trying to find this problem. However, I caused another one changing the battery and recharging so often. The Positive bolt built into the battery wire is stripped. I just can't win. It works, but it's definitely going to cause a problem at some point.
Attached Thumbnails Dash light remain on constantly 24/7-ipbulbdimming1.jpg   Dash light remain on constantly 24/7-ipbulbdimming2.jpg  

Last edited by dberladyn; May 19th, 2016 at 5:48 PM.
Old May 20th, 2016, 12:03 AM
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FIXED!!!

I found the problem and it's fixed. Looking back I should have started looking there first but, none the less, lots of info here for anyone else who needs it.
Old May 21st, 2016, 6:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dberladyn
FIXED!!!

I found the problem and it's fixed. Looking back I should have started looking there first but, none the less, lots of info here for anyone else who needs it.
Glad you got it fixed, but what exactly caused the problem, and how did you fix it?
Old May 22nd, 2016, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Twscarp
Glad you got it fixed, but what exactly caused the problem, and how did you fix it?
I caused it. I had plenty of plans for this truck last year but my life went into a place no one needs to go through. I added a custom circuit to the fusebox, taking a spot from an option I do not have. I wanted a dedicated circuit for my phone charger. I added the factory contact to the board with a soldering iron, but my expensive soldering iron needs a tip and my mind was far too stressed with so many things going on, in the end I ended up doing a poor soldering job, leaving trace amounts of solder onto the circuit next to the one I installed. The next fuse. That happened to be the ip lights. It's my fault, but it wouldn't have happened if I was home and my life wasn't blown to smithereens. I thought the problem happened earlier because my battery was often dying. That was likely due to the tablet, phone, and WiFi device I left plugged in 24/7. Then the android radio that had sometimes would be left on. Those problems and variables combined with a small ruined battery made the problem hard to trouble shoot. Well that and.. the stresses. I can't even begin to share those

Likely you'll never do the things I do. Like adding factory options using only factory wires, parts, connectors etc. Anyways it's fixed and everything is on hold now while I try to repair my life. Thanks for asking.


EDIT: I guess it might sound like overkill, but I like things organized and Factory-ish. I don't believe in cutting or tapping factory wires. I guess in the end it would be a lot simpler to just add on an aftermatket fusebox for additions, but.... It wasn't what I chose.

Last edited by dberladyn; May 22nd, 2016 at 12:45 AM.
Old May 22nd, 2016, 7:49 AM
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Thanks for the reply, I understand now. I'm fairly new to this forum but from the start you have been one of a few members who really cares and tries to help people out. It's none of my business but I hope your situation works out okay for you, as I'm sure everyone else here agrees.




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