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To insulate or not to insulate? That's my question.

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Old May 12th, 2015, 2:56 PM
  #21  
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I think the ribs are glued in a few spots to the outer sheet metal. Not welded....
....as for the expanding foam....you are not the first or the last person to underestimate the pressure it creates.......They have to use a massive press to make rigid insulation panels out of expanded foam.....
Old July 12th, 2015, 12:14 AM
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Ok,

I am back at this again, round two, van two.

I plan on staying away from the spray foam. I've been back and forth on this for weeks, to do it or not. I started installing a plywood dividing/shelving system for tools and materials and then I've done a 180, pulled everything out and I am ready to start tomorrow. You have no idea how hot a black van gets! Mind you, it may not really be any different once it's insulated, I don't know.

I am going to blueskin the entire inside of the body. I figure this will create a complete water tight seal against moisture and the body, as well as creating a slight sound deadening. After the blueseal will be Roxul, capped by a vapour barrier which may just turn out to be another layer of blueskin.

From here, I can either mount plywood or reinstall my plastic moulded liners. I prefer plywood for the ability to take screws and for access to the wiring. I have a lot of things I would like to do over time and the plastic liners get in the way as I can't access the wiring, especially once the dividers and liners are in.

On the other hand, the plastic liners look semi-professional and if the van is completely empty it can be hosed out. Plywood on the other hand... ughh.
Old July 12th, 2015, 6:26 AM
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AC - Summer
Heater - Winter
Old July 12th, 2015, 2:15 PM
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Yeah, I know. That's probably the smartest yet...

I tried placing a large sheet of BlueSkin last night. It took a couple of tries and now I realize the best thing to do would be to cut 4" or 6" strips 24" long and apply it that way. Easiest to follow the ribs, folds and whatever else while keeping it flat.

This seems like an excellent way to deal with the condensation issues. It keeps any condensation off the steel. But... now this morning I was reading something else. Butyl based products, particularly ones that are ashpalt based tend to melt in the sun. Considering that I have a black van and I am applying this to black steel...

Yes, I am in the process of removing it. Painful... I am peeling off literally an inch at a time as the "stick" really sticks. I really liked this idea, but perhaps I will use the product for wrapping the inside afterwards, so I can still keep the rinsing out with a hose solution. Then again, it is heavy so I don't know.
Attached Thumbnails To insulate or not to insulate?  That's my question.-dsc_0090%5B1%5D.jpg  

Last edited by dberladyn; July 12th, 2015 at 2:20 PM.
Old July 16th, 2015, 12:12 AM
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What a waste.

I've abandoned all my plans and went back to what I did 20 years ago and what I thought I shouldn't do again. I am insulating with 1/2" foam boards. I didn't want to do this because one, it's expensive and two, squeaks. My van of 20 years ago squeaked and I read posts online of vans squeaking. To solve this I've bought soft foam in a roll which is manufactured and intended for temporarily protecting furniture, counters and other surfaces while the surrounding area is worked on. It's self adhesive and so far it works. I just line each sheet with that where ever it contacts another item. Test drive will be tomorrow.

I am actually remotely planning on losing the molded plastic liners. I don't want to but I do. I do because I can't screw into them, they are not as nice as one would think, they are rough cut they actually don't fit that well. I am thinking of light plywood walls, perhaps covered in a water proofing material so that I may completely customize the interior while still finding a way to empty and hose out the van.
Old July 16th, 2015, 5:30 PM
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i used carpet underlay, and just glued it to the sheet metal. Steel stud R8 insulation would work to, so you don't get the squeaking of rigid foam.....
Old July 18th, 2015, 5:19 PM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
i used carpet underlay, and just glued it to the sheet metal. Steel stud R8 insulation would work to, so you don't get the squeaking of rigid foam.....
I'm too scared of promoting rot. Any insulation used needs to keep the condensation away from the metal. So far, still no squeaks and with only a 1/2", very little warmth is conducted down into the body, but I have a feeling it's extremely hot between the foam and the metal. This heat seems to make it's way forward through the air gap and come out at the headliner.

I'm just still trying to decide on using another 1/2" or not, and then the material to line the roof with. Hardi board would be good at 1/8", but I'd like plywood so the walls match and for actually having some bone to screw into. I might be hanging some long racks down the insides of the roof for certain tools and materials.
Old August 2nd, 2015, 11:08 AM
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I am still stuck on insulating. The styro foam works well, heat wise. It's actually cooled down the van from the Summer sun. Although I have developed a squeak. It's all completely changeable though, as nothing has been covered.

I was in a Supplier that also supplies heat and frost materials. Originally I was trying to be too cheap, but I finally started enquiring. They carry a closed cell foam mat available in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" right up into the inches. It's soft curvable and it doesn't squeak. I spent money there I didn't want to, but I am wishing I bought it from the start. I swear it's the same basic material that GM uses between the ribs and the panels. The same insulator.

For a guy who wasn't going to insulate, I've bought a lot and done little. I have enough different materials to insulate it four different ways. Moisture is my main concern. I don't want to trap moisture in there. I also, don't want a squeaky van.

I was talking to someone else involved with fleets. They buy their vans, remove everything and then immediately get that rubber coating applied, the truck liner spray on type. I can't think of the name. He told me where to go to get it done for $300. Spray the entire inside. From there, I should be able to insulate just about any way that I want? Right? Do pickup beds ever rust with that coating applied? I realize the van isn't a 1000 year vehicle, but I don't want to promote damage.

The coating is permanent, so it has to be the right decision. I know it makes body work harder to repair. There's no way moisture should get under that. Especially if I spray it now, it in very hot dry weather.
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