DougE

If you need a "key on" signal (low power) there is a source under the driver's kick panel. There are two large connectors. On the forward connector you want the white/black wire in the C2 position. If you look closely on the connector you will see marked on one side A1-----A# and on the other side D1-----D# (forgot what the last number was). From this you can determine the C2 location and back probe to verify it's hot with the ignition on. I wouldn't use this wire for power though. I used this source to illuminate the switches for the Spal power window kit I just installed in my 2010 Express. Oops! This one turns off after the engine is started. Will hunt up another one.

tsbrewers

let us know how the kit works, I have been thinking about putting one in too.

Brew

DougE

The Spal product is good but it is definitely not plug and play. You need fairly good electrical skills to install. While they furnish all the parts, they are for multiple applications and not Express specific so there are a lot of duplicate, but slightly different parts. You have to make up the plug inserts for wires from both motors and all the plug inserts for the passenger side switch. The terminals are crimped similar to weatherpak connectors and then inserted into the connector body. In my opinion the factory wiring is marginal and don't advise just tapping into an existing wire for power. You need to go back to the fuse panel and tap off a fuse position (I have a sub-panel tapped directly off the battery I used for a power source, non-switched, so the windows are powered all the time). There is a grounding point available under the driver's side kick panel. I installed the motor assembly in the forward upper corner of the doors. It just barely fit but the motor assembly wouldn't reach any other door openings. The window crank opening has to be opened up a little for the Spal hole covers to work. I did it with a hole saw in my drill press. I used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to make the holes in the top of the door panels for the switches. You need to do a little diagnostic work to determine the positions of the motor leads in the switches so the up and down operations are consistent with the switch labeling.

tsbrewers

Ok, thanks. The wiring wouldn't be a problem, I have just always heard the aftermarket window kits kinda suck. I did a little research on them before and I did read that you shouldn't keep them always hot since they do draw power (light on switch?) even when they aren't in use. But maybe the changed that.

DougE

Per my original post, I tapped into a switched wire for the switch lighting. Spal provides a separate wire for the switch lighting.

DougE

I found that the crank connectors can lose engagement with the crank shaft if there is not a positive retaining pressure from the brackets. If you get a clicking or clinking sound and the window is not moving, the parts have slipped off of the cranking shaft some.