1st Post, Fuse Box, Eng/Cyl Compression Test And Impala.... :(
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1st Post, Fuse Box, Eng/Cyl Compression Test And Impala.... :(
Hello Everyone, this is My post in a long time.... Or wait, This is actually My 1st Post!.. But My problem is, I'm trying to figure out if I did something wrong, Or Something is actually wrong.. ?
I went to do a compression test on My car ['05 Impala 3.8], after completing the test, car won't start back up, It cranks and cranks but won't start. I did unplugged some fuses in the fuse box under the Hood in an attempt to Disable the Fuel and Ignition, I UNPLUGGED 4 FUSE(S) THE ONES THAT READ "FUEL PUMP", "FUEL INJ", "F/PMP RLY" AND "IGN SW" [BUT WHEN I UNPLIGGED THE "IGN SW" MY RADIO WENT OFF - idk if this is normal or not?]. But I Immediately plugged it back in and everything came back on.
So I'm asking, do I have to let it regain consciousness? Since the components were disoriented a little bit, Is there a procedure I need to follow? or Is something really wrong now?
For Now, I'm really screwed. Until Someone Please Help!!!!.
I went to do a compression test on My car ['05 Impala 3.8], after completing the test, car won't start back up, It cranks and cranks but won't start. I did unplugged some fuses in the fuse box under the Hood in an attempt to Disable the Fuel and Ignition, I UNPLUGGED 4 FUSE(S) THE ONES THAT READ "FUEL PUMP", "FUEL INJ", "F/PMP RLY" AND "IGN SW" [BUT WHEN I UNPLIGGED THE "IGN SW" MY RADIO WENT OFF - idk if this is normal or not?]. But I Immediately plugged it back in and everything came back on.
So I'm asking, do I have to let it regain consciousness? Since the components were disoriented a little bit, Is there a procedure I need to follow? or Is something really wrong now?
For Now, I'm really screwed. Until Someone Please Help!!!!.
Last edited by Impala-Ryder; December 4th, 2015 at 4:11 PM. Reason: Nono
#2
if all the fuses are back in the only thing that would be normal is if the fuel system needs primed again. Just cycle the key to on and count to 30 2 or 3 times and it should start.
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Car was on.
Only thing I noticed was a huge smoke puff from behind the engine right behind the alternator. I can't quite tell what it smelt like, maybe exhaust or electrical, I'm not sure.
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Well there are a couple ways to tell a blown fuse. With the car off, pull the fuses that you took out 1 at a time and compare them to the attached picture of a good fuse and a blown fuse. If you are good with a meter, turn the car on and check ACROSS the little metal points at the top of the fuse for voltage, if you have voltage across the fuse it is open. If you have no voltage, either the fuse is good OR the circuit is powered down. Now you say you had a puff of smoke? You never want to pull or replace fuses in a live circuit. No telling what will happen or blow. You could have lost a fusible link that is in the wiring harness. Only way to find out after you check the fuses you pulled is to troubleshoot with a meter. BTW - did you put the fuses back in the fusebox in their ORIGINAL locations? Not all fuses carry the same amount of current. If you put a 3 AMP fuse where there used to be a 20 AMP fuse, chances are that the fuse will blow, but a 20 AMP in a 3 AMP location will not blow and also not provide sufficient protection against overloads if a short should happen.
Last edited by Frank3; December 9th, 2015 at 11:17 AM.
#7
It might be that you need to keep trying and trying until the fuel pump gets fuel back where it needs to be.
I once owned at 2003 Chevy Cavalier and that fuel gauge was exact. I let it get to empty one time and it was empty. At 1 in the morning, I walked 3 miles to a gas station, bought a fuel can which they luckily sold, bought 2 gallons of gas, walked 3 miles back to the car and put the fuel in and tried & tried for 15 - 20 minutes and the car wouldn't start. Fed up I finally called and asked the police if they would either drive me home, another 10 miles or back to buy more gas.
They agreed reluctantly but I said before we go let me try one more time to start the car and of course it started 1st try much to my embarrassment. I was left swearing that I had tried & tried to start it. I guess I should be glad he didn't proceed to give me a breathalyzer test.
I once owned at 2003 Chevy Cavalier and that fuel gauge was exact. I let it get to empty one time and it was empty. At 1 in the morning, I walked 3 miles to a gas station, bought a fuel can which they luckily sold, bought 2 gallons of gas, walked 3 miles back to the car and put the fuel in and tried & tried for 15 - 20 minutes and the car wouldn't start. Fed up I finally called and asked the police if they would either drive me home, another 10 miles or back to buy more gas.
They agreed reluctantly but I said before we go let me try one more time to start the car and of course it started 1st try much to my embarrassment. I was left swearing that I had tried & tried to start it. I guess I should be glad he didn't proceed to give me a breathalyzer test.
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Back For Some Serious Help Guys
Well there are a couple ways to tell a blown fuse. With the car off, pull the fuses that you took out 1 at a time and compare them to the attached picture of a good fuse and a blown fuse. If you are good with a meter, turn the car on and check ACROSS the little metal points at the top of the fuse for voltage, if you have voltage across the fuse it is open. If you have no voltage, either the fuse is good OR the circuit is powered down. Now you say you had a puff of smoke? You never want to pull or replace fuses in a live circuit. No telling what will happen or blow. You could have lost a fusible link that is in the wiring harness. Only way to find out after you check the fuses you pulled is to troubleshoot with a meter. BTW - did you put the fuses back in the fusebox in their ORIGINAL locations? Not all fuses carry the same amount of current. If you put a 3 AMP fuse where there used to be a 20 AMP fuse, chances are that the fuse will blow, but a 20 AMP in a 3 AMP location will not blow and also not provide sufficient protection against overloads if a short should happen.
I'm thinking is there not a way to Hook up a computer to the OBDII To Find Out Exactly whats going on??
It might be that you need to keep trying and trying until the fuel pump gets fuel back where it needs to be.
I once owned at 2003 Chevy Cavalier and that fuel gauge was exact. I let it get to empty one time and it was empty. At 1 in the morning, I walked 3 miles to a gas station, bought a fuel can which they luckily sold, bought 2 gallons of gas, walked 3 miles back to the car and put the fuel in and tried & tried for 15 - 20 minutes and the car wouldn't start. Fed up I finally called and asked the police if they would either drive me home, another 10 miles or back to buy more gas.
They agreed reluctantly but I said before we go let me try one more time to start the car and of course it started 1st try much to my embarrassment. I was left swearing that I had tried & tried to start it. I guess I should be glad he didn't proceed to give me a breathalyzer test.
I once owned at 2003 Chevy Cavalier and that fuel gauge was exact. I let it get to empty one time and it was empty. At 1 in the morning, I walked 3 miles to a gas station, bought a fuel can which they luckily sold, bought 2 gallons of gas, walked 3 miles back to the car and put the fuel in and tried & tried for 15 - 20 minutes and the car wouldn't start. Fed up I finally called and asked the police if they would either drive me home, another 10 miles or back to buy more gas.
They agreed reluctantly but I said before we go let me try one more time to start the car and of course it started 1st try much to my embarrassment. I was left swearing that I had tried & tried to start it. I guess I should be glad he didn't proceed to give me a breathalyzer test.