barry4219

I had the same kind of problem with my Impala .I just bypassed the entire pass lock system with a part from [url=http://newrockies.com/?ap_id=SCP8333] .It took me about 2 hours to install .Comes with easy to follow instructions .You can even send it back if it does not work . Keep in mind it is hard to diagnose this kind of problem from a few posts , and some people don't like to use these kind of devices to bypass the system .But I wasn't going to put my wife out in are Impala with the chance of it acting up again . It been about a year no issues .

EinST

I assume the measurements were made according to the markings on the old switch since it looks like the new one is a dud. Then, the ignition switch is a wrong part or wrong part in the right box (which is the same thing).

dbgryche

the new switch is the same as the old one and it had the same marked terminals but as you can see from the results the resistance was higher and there was continuity on terminals that there wasn't on the old one and wasn't where there was... I have read about the newraiders bypass system and if i knew that was the resolve i would purchase it.

i got the car with the no start issue. here is the rundown of events, I was told that the car needed a alternator, I pulled it and took it in for a test while the battery was charging. The Alternator tested good but the belt had excessive cracks so i installed a new one. I put the charged battery back in hoped in to start it, the gages twitched twice and the dash lights flashed but no crank over at all. I turned the ignition to off and went to remove the key and the gauges clicked again? this was in the off possition? I figured the switch was bad at this point and bought a new one from advanced auto. The battery was drained and 8 years old so i replaced it too. After i installed the new switch i tried to start it again, the gauges clicked the stereo message had "cal err" displayed on it and still no crank. the message window had low fuel and security alternating on it. It was at this point that I posted on this forum with this thread...

EinST

We can put it to rest that the new switch is a dud. So, whatever it has been doing or not doing after the new switch is irrelevant.

Can you describe the original "no start issue" in greater detail? Did it crank at all or crank and not catch? Was the SECURITY message displayed, only display for a few seconds with key on, was flashing?

After the new belt and charged battery, did you hear a single faint click or rapid series of clicks? Was there any SECURITY message?

What I think happened was that you just had a weak battery. How about putting the old ignition switch back in and tell us what exactly happens with the above questions in mind?

dbgryche

ok there was never a crank over and i have the old switch about to go back in. I'll post back in a few

dbgryche

but were the results on the old switch? um mm was there connectivity where there should have been?

EinST

Unless I miss-read something due to the formatting, the old switch looked fine.

dbgryche

you are the bomb i cleaned the contacts in the ignition switch reinstalled it and boom i got crank over. Thanks

EinST

Congrats. I'm glad that it wasn't the Passlock. The next time I hear "Passlock this, Passlock that," I'm going to scream.

P.S. I consider everyone on here my friend if you know what I mean.

Steve Sims

did you check to see if you could communicate with any of the other modules? i.e. bcm, airbag, readiness monitors? if you can, then you need to check powers and grounds for the pcm. there can be mulitples of each. and doesnt have to be a fuse per say. that will definitely give you the no crank, no start issue.