pk1k2014

I replaced the rear rotors, calipers and pads on this Impala. The rotors were original ( 65,000 miles) and completely rusty and calipers were not moving so in effect the rear brakes did very little. Everything else in the braking was working before replacing these items. No codes or ABS or brake lights. I have tried manually bleeding the brakes and also pressure bleeding the system and I cannot get brake pressure. The only brake lines opened were the two rear wheels at the caliper. I have read several things on line that make me believe bleeding these brakes is not possible for the average guy. I also have a second 2008 Impala which has similar problems in the rear brakes so I am hoping someone has done it without towing the car to the dealer.

Chevrolet Customer Service

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> Hello pk1k2014,


I understand that you are trying to resolve this issue without going to the dealership. I hope that you awesome forum members can assist you with this. If you find that you cannot resolve this issue yourself, I am more than happy to assist by locating a dealership in your area and setting up the appointment. Please let me know if I can be of assistance. Feel free to private message me anytime!


Jennifer T.
Chevrolet Customer Care

Frank3

I've read about replacement brake bleeder screws that have built-in check valves. Maybe this could help you out. You may want to google them to check them out.

pk1k2014

Thanks Frank3. I did look at those brake bleeder screws, but everything i read said pressure bleeding was the best one man job so i bought one. I am still baffled how it get so screwed up. I have done brakes at least 30 times in my life including Chevrolets and have not had issues.

tech2

try a gravity bleed and see what happens. fill the m/c, leave the cap off, crack both rear bleeder screws and let it sit and see if fluid will drip out after 10-20 minutes. perform a manual bleed after to finish.


did the master cylinder drain out? If yes, you will have to bleed the m/c, maybe even the lines into the abs pump. If it still won't bleed, then it will most likely need an automated system bleed using a scan tool.

Frank3

tech2 has a good point, if the master cylinder emptied out, then that should be bled first. MAKE NOTE - DO NOT push or bottom out the brake pedal to the floor. This can cause an over-extension of the piston inside the bore in the master cylinder. The piston in the master cylinder on it's return to the rest position, may run across some sharp edges, cutting rubber o rings that encircle the piston. This can cause intermittent brake pedal/braking action in the future when you get it all working.

pk1k2014

Thank you all for the suggestions. It was a while between the time i removed the rear calipers and re-installed the new ones. I refilled the MC and do not recall that it was empty. I have seen the comment about not bottoming out the brake pedal because it is possible to damage the MC - this i remember doing the first time i bled the brakes - the pedal going to floor. So i may have damaged the MC. If i had a little air in the system, i should get some braking but i get nothing. So, i have decided to replace the MC and will do the bench bleeding of the MC before installing it etc.

pk1k2014

thank you for the advice. I will work on it a little more and if i cant get it going i will call the tow truck. I have other vehicles to use so i have a little time. I would like to figure out where i went wrong so i don't do it again. I mentioned that i have two 2008 impalas and the second needs rear brakes as well.

tech2

ideally, replace the calipers quickly so you don't drain the system. If you have to have the system open for long periods, slightly apply the brake pedal with a prybar or brake pedal depressor. This will close of the master cylinder ports and the master will not drain. remove the stop lamp fuse so the battery doesn't drain from the stop lamps being on.