Impala While undergoing many facelifts in its history, the Impala has proved itself to both civilians and police forces as one of the most capable 4-door cars GM has ever offered. Currently moving towards its 10th generation the Impala is one of the longest lasting and popular models.

2014 Chevrolet Impala
Includes: Bel-air
Platform: B-body & W-body

Impala won't start when hot & humid

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Old June 8th, 2009, 4:20 PM
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Question Impala won't start when hot & humid

I own a 2001 Chevy Impala, and for the past year the car refuses to start when its really hot and humid outside. It'll crank, but refuses to follow through and start. I had a diagnostic run on it by Aamco, but they said they couldnt find anything without the car giving them the same scenario it gives me. They recommended a tune-up. I paid over $300 for a tuneup last week and today (85 degree weather) my car does the same thing again!

I've taken notice of a few things:

1) As I mentioned, it happens when it's really warm and humid outside

2) During those times, it seems to happen when I turn my car off and try to restart it after only a few minutes

3) I usually have to let the car sit for about 20 minutes or so, then eventually it'll start

Has anyone else had this issue, and if so, what was the problem and what was the fix. I may be going to Chevy for a proper diagnostic; they mentioned it could possibly be my fuel pump or some sensor, but they weren't 100%. One thing's for sure, its a pain in the butt!

EDIT: After fooling with it a little just now on my own, i've noticed that if I leave my foot down on the gas while starting, and after turning the key, taking my foot off and slamming it down to the metal about 2 times it starts. Of course it makes the engine scream, but it starts. Hopefully this little addition of info will be of some help to anyone who may have a clue about this issue. Thanks!

Last edited by shaydakiss23; June 8th, 2009 at 4:52 PM.
Old June 8th, 2009, 8:27 PM
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go to autozone or a auto place like that and have them test the fuel pressure on a hot humid day after the car is up to normal operating temp. it sounds like there is a fueling issue since your having to push the pedal to get it to start. the first thing i would suspect is the fuel pressure regulator. if not that then the fuel pump. but if it is the fuel pump its not too bad to change. you wont have to drop the tank. there is a little access plate under the carpet in the trunk that you can gain access to the gas tank.

btw, what engine do you have?
Old June 9th, 2009, 8:03 AM
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Originally Posted by milwaukee_01impala
go to autozone or a auto place like that and have them test the fuel pressure on a hot humid day after the car is up to normal operating temp. it sounds like there is a fueling issue since your having to push the pedal to get it to start. the first thing i would suspect is the fuel pressure regulator. if not that then the fuel pump. but if it is the fuel pump its not too bad to change. you wont have to drop the tank. there is a little access plate under the carpet in the trunk that you can gain access to the gas tank.

btw, what engine do you have?
The fuel pump might not be hard to change but it is around $300 at the discount stores.
Old June 9th, 2009, 8:24 AM
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Originally Posted by milwaukee_01impala
go to autozone or a auto place like that and have them test the fuel pressure on a hot humid day after the car is up to normal operating temp. it sounds like there is a fueling issue since your having to push the pedal to get it to start. the first thing i would suspect is the fuel pressure regulator. if not that then the fuel pump. but if it is the fuel pump its not too bad to change. you wont have to drop the tank. there is a little access plate under the carpet in the trunk that you can gain access to the gas tank.

btw, what engine do you have?
Thanks for the response. Its the 3.8 liter V6. I checked with Advanced Auto Parts just now and they dont check fuel pressure, so I guess i'll eventually have to throw another load of money into trying to get this thing diagnosed. The local Chevy dealership charges $70 to run a diagnostic. They mentioned that they have far superior equipment that's specific to Chevy's, so they would be able to diagnose it without a problem, unlike Aamco (who i went to for a diagnosis 2 weeks ago). Hopefully its the regulator as you mentioned, which would be a much cheaper fix than the fuel pump.

Do you have any idea what type of problems a mixture of coolants could give me. I was not aware of the fact that my car took orange coolant, and on several occasions I've put green coolant in it. My first move before I get this fuel issue resolved is gonna be getting a coolant flush. What type of problems could that mixture cause me? Once again, thanks for your help.
Old June 9th, 2009, 10:10 AM
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as far as the dealer goes they have a techII scanner. its specific to gm cars. $70 for a diagnostic fee is about the average from a dealer.
for the coolant, i'd get it flushed asap. mixing the regular green coolant and the dexcool isnt good. it will turn everything in the cooling system to a nasty paste and the coolant wont do its job.
i'd replace the FPR first. its cheaper than a fuel pump and easier to change than a fuel pump.
whats the reason for adding coolant? i havent added coolant to mine in over a year and a half now and its still full. is there any visible signs of a coolant leak?
Old June 9th, 2009, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by milwaukee_01impala
as far as the dealer goes they have a techII scanner. its specific to gm cars. $70 for a diagnostic fee is about the average from a dealer.
for the coolant, i'd get it flushed asap. mixing the regular green coolant and the dexcool isnt good. it will turn everything in the cooling system to a nasty paste and the coolant wont do its job.
i'd replace the FPR first. its cheaper than a fuel pump and easier to change than a fuel pump.
whats the reason for adding coolant? i havent added coolant to mine in over a year and a half now and its still full. is there any visible signs of a coolant leak?
Thanks for the response man. No, no signs of leak. I may have said that i've added green coolant several times above, but in all actuality it has only been maybe once or twice. If I did it twice, it was just because I felt the need to fill up anything that wasnt full in my car on one particular occasion. So do you think I should try getting the FPR replaced before even getting the diagnosis, or should I get the diagnosis first?

The cheapest coolant flush I can find in my city is around $95. That's probably my number 1 priority right now...
Old June 9th, 2009, 10:45 AM
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well the FPR is probably the cheapest thing to change. im not too sure about the 3.8 but on the 3.4 the FPR isnt hard to change.
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