golem

I've removed the torx fasteners for the door pull trim and support along with the two rear facing trim pins. This is where I'm stuck -- Does the release lever bezel/trim require removal (it seems quite secure)? Does the entire panel pop outward, slide forward or upwards?

Any insight you could provide this ex-tech would be much appreciated!

EinST

Welcome to the forumm. It sounds like you're missing the inside handle bolt finish Cap (2) and bolt (3):

golem

Thank you EinST for the welcome and that perfect reply!

I can now access the hidden screw without fear of bunging up any trim not meant to be removed. Also, the old adage sure rings true..."A picture is worth a 1000 words."

Cheers!

EinST

You're quite welcome. Good luck with your project.

golem

Ok, simple enough was getting the panel off when armed with insight (thanks again!).

Now I get to my actual problem which is an inoperative lock solenoid. A click at the actuator is evident on both the lock and unlock events but no actual lever movement is evident. Was hoping it was simply a rod having popped loose but further inspection revealed the latch/actuator to be an assembly with all parts internal. After removal of the latch/actuator reality smacks me again with the fact that we have yet another unserviceable part (riveted assy).

What I'm hoping to find out is -- Is this actuator a commonly failed item? Not having a wiring schematic to attempt manually cycling it is there any possibility it could be a wiring type of power or grounding issue? Maybe something else all together?

Looking to find if it's one of those "Say no more, it's common and is..." repairs before paying the parts dept or traipsing through the junkyard.

Cheers!

EinST

The door latch assembly includes the lock actuator and the door ajar switch. There are four wires going to it:

TAN wire, unlock control voltage
GRY wire, lock control voltage
LT BLU/BLK wire, door ajar switch signal
BLK wire, door ajar switch ground

If you measure the voltage across the TAN and GRY wires, you'll see a positive voltage when unlocking and negative voltage (reverse polarity) when locking. If it turns out to be the actuator, you can replace the whole assembly or leave it in place and then graft on a universal actuator (dime a dozen on eBay).

golem

Much appreciate your efforts again EinST!

The wire coding you provided (along with additional info) should allow me to have it sussed.

Cheers!