Tire pressure warning light stays on. DIC shows LF at 24 psi, tho the actual pressure is 32 psi.
Last week my wife had air added; I checked and it was around 40 psi at each wheel! I lowered the pressure on all four. Now, about 2 weeks later the LR sensor seems to be acting up.
Is it most likely I need a new sensor...or can I try the Sensor Matching Process? If I "decrease pressure for about eight seconds", I'd then have to go back to the station for air; a little bit of a PITA...therefore is it worth trying? Or go ahead and have the sensor replaced?
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No rotation, that's why I didn't mention it; only that my wife added air at all four wheels using a $1.00 machine. She over-inflated up to about 40 psi per wheel.
My check was done at a gas station using their ($10?) gauge. We double checked each wheel; gauge and DIC matched except for LF. Gas station owner said I need a new sensor. I was getting a second opinion here. The sensors are pretty expensive; to buy and then install.
So, is it a waste of time 'matching'? Or, time for a new sensor? Also, I wondered if over-inflating could have caused an error that could be overcome with matching? Did it also damage the sensor? Or...sensor just happened to fail?
Page 5-61..."Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code.
Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS senors or
rotate the vehicle's tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel location.....they are matched in
the following order: driver side front tire...can be matched...
using a TPMS diagnostic tool...or by increasing or decreasing
the tire's air pressure....You have two minutes to match each
tire and wheel..."
In my case, "The 'tire icon' stays lit on the dash; and the DIC constantly reads, 'check tire pressure'."