hobhancock

.020 yes and I did get bigger pistons with the rings that should have worked with them. Still not sure if its rings, but I am going to pull this motor one more time and try another set. I cant think of anything else that could be causing the oil to come out the exhaust. I havent found anything online as of yet.

kevinkpk

I'm "beaming it"

kevinkpk

Few things, is the oil scraper ring installed correctly? The bottom ring is for oil control. Also do a compression test, if you didn't stagger the ring gap this could also be a potential problem.
Finally, I'd not assume the valve seals are ok, with the compression test, if the valve seals are leaking, you should be able to tell if there is blowby, and as posted, check the pcv valve. The pcv valve goes along with crankcase vent as a positive (atmoshpereic) pressue into one side, and a vacumm (pcv valve) on the other.

hobhancock

Thanks Kevinkpk
The oil rings. I didnt think you can mess those up, but if its possible then I could have done it. When I first install the oil rings, I noticed the middle section of the oil ring or curly curved part was two curls to big so it would not sit in the groove. I snipped them off so they would fit inside. The upper and lower rings of the oil ring set were both offset from the other parts. Then installed ring number two and number one all offset. I did a compression test before pulling the block this last time and wondered if I really had compression that matched a rebuild. Each cylinder was coming in at around 105 psi. That seemed low to me considering the book mentions 140. The valve stems seals are good and I also swapped PCV valves. There is very little oil coming out of the PCV valve into the intake. I think the PCV valve is functioning correctly, when I pull the hose off going into the intake the idle revs up. I measured the top ring for clearance after the machine shop used it to make sure the bore was correct. As I mentioned recently, when installing the pistons again after honing this week, there just didnt seem to be much resistance as I pushed the pistons down in. I also didnt really hear much of a scraping sound as I manually move them up and down. Thats why I wonder if the rings are no good now or if by missing the honing in the first place, it messed with the rings.

kevinkpk

Without the heads, or spark plugs you should have about the no resistance you quote. little oil on the cylinders with a compression check will probably bring you up to 140 (i'm not familar with this engine), you'll have to pardon me asking about the oil control rings, I digress back to my Pratt and Whitney overhaul days, these should be an oil pusher to the top, and I don't think these are reversable. squirt some engine oil in the cylinder before next compression check. Honning the cylinders dosen't take off the surface area, it just smooths it.

hobhancock

Update.
Pulled the block out one more time. I think the issue is with the oil rings. If I removed the top two rings and leave the oil rings on the pistons, I can push the piston down in without having to compress the oil rings. The oil rings barely stick out so I am thinking that is my issue. If I put the oil rings down in the cylinder to use a feeler gauge, the gap is out of spec. I am going to order new rings, any suggestions?

kevinkpk

Oil rings are not correct IMO.

SBchevyfan

I don't think the little time you've run the engine would allow the rings to really get a good seal yet. Make sure you stagger the ring gaps so they're not all lined up. As far as new rings go, don't go cheap, you get what you pay for.

hobhancock

what few engines I have done this to before (VW), I have never seen them billow smoke like this. Maybe the two top rings are fine, but the oil rings just are not tight enough in the cylinder to keep the oil in the bottom. As I have mentioned, I can see the oil coming out of the exhaust and think it has something to do with the oil ring. I did order new rings and I do not know what is the cheap brand vs a great brand. I ordered DNJ rings from Rock Auto which showed up today. Tonight I will install them to see what the difference is. As I try to do on forums, I will post back my progress.

Thanks for all who have contributed suggestions.

hobhancock

Well the motor is back in with a new set of rings. I am to blame for all my troubles. I had messed up the oil expansion ring, when it overlapped on the piston to where I thought it was too big. Made the mistake of cutting off just one of the ends to where I thought they sat in the correctly. I assumed the upper and lower rails of the ring held the oil in and the expansion ring only allowed the oil to get back through the piston. Yeah, I know now, making the expansion ring smaller takes the pressure off the upper and lower rails, therefore letting oil get back into the combustion chamber. Stupid mistake. Luckily it was only my time and money that it affected. I think those who tried so hard to help me out. Not a professional at this for sure. The other rings that I had done before were somewhat different. I just wasnt paying attention and thinking straight. After watching a youtube video where the guy was showing how the little ***** on the expansion ring holds the upper and lower rails in and how one can do those wrong, did I realize my bonehead mistake. I am not going to quit my day job for sure. I would be in trouble if I did. So after all that, the motor is back in and running like a champ. It only smoked a short time until the oil that was present from the previous screw up had burned off. It sounds and runs good I think now. I just need a new muffler now. I do apologize for taking up anyones time due to my screw up. I do take all the responsibility for it. I live and learn. This will never happen again.