S-10 & Blazer1982-2005
The S-10 and Blazer was arguably the most versatile and accessorizable mid-size truck and SUV on the market.
Platform: S/T-series & GMT 330
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i have been going at it for about a week and nothing. when i turn the ignition switch and the only thing that happens it the dashboard lights up, no click no sound of engine trying to start up, i have changed the starter engine, neutral safety switch and nothing still giving me the same thing. i want to check the ignition coil but i cant find it. if any one can replay with some description of where it is it will help or some sort of picture that will be the great. thank you!
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Welcome to the forum. What led you to replace those parts and are they new? Are you getting any voltage at the 20A CRANK fuse in the underhood fuse block with the key in START? Probe both sides of the fuse with the fuse in place and it'll also tell you if it's blown.
hello EinST, thank you for replying! i checked the fuse named IGN C 20A, i hope thats the one your referring to. On the OFF position it has a voltage of 11.60 and when it is switched to the start position it goes to 11.45 volts, i checked the fuse one side at a time, and as far as one side of the fuse negative and the other positive it gave me 0 Voltage. my reason to change the starter and the neutral safety switch it was just advice i took from my brothers and also from the internet. the starter is refurbished and the neutral switch is new. btw i forgot to mention when i switched the starter i did a screwdriver jump and it turned the car on fine but when i turned it off it wouldn't start up again with just the key.
Okay, so you have battery voltage at the IGN C fuse. That supplies one leg of the ignition switch. When you turn the key to start, the the ignition switch sends that voltage over the YEL wire to the CRANK fuse. From there the voltage (actually the electrical current) travels over the PPL wire to the neutral safety switch and then over the PPL/WHT wire to the STARTER relay. When the STARTER relay is thus energized, it shunts the main current from the IGN A on to the STARTER solenoid. Check the voltage at each junction (against a known good ground) to isolate the fault. I wish there were a easier way.
It sounds like a security system not letting it start .It can be bypassed completely .I know it saved my car with the same problem . I can send you a link to the company that makes a bypass module. let me know if you need help . email@example.com
wow im learning so much from this post thank you again. EinST i have not checked the other junctions but i found the CRANK fuse but it is labeled 10A not 20A and when i turn to the START position it has 0.05 Volts
Okay, then, the problem is the ignition switch or wiring to and from. If you want to go further, go through the process of elimination. First, take the ignition switch out, disconnect the electrical connector from the back of it, and then carefully check the voltage on the terminals corresponding to red and orange supply wires. If battery voltage is present on those two wires, check the resistance on the yellow wire, from that electrical connector to the CRANK fuse. The resistance should be virtually zero. If they check out, suspect the ignition switch.
im sorry EinST that took so long to reply back but i got it working. it ended up being an old alarm relay that i never removed that was causing the problem from the ignition switch to the crank fuse. but now i have another problem. right now my car wont start again. sort of the same situation (turn the key but the car does not make a sound, all i see is the red battery light turn on the dash board, i tried jumping the car but it wont start, i did the screwdriver jump and you hear the starter engine spin and it sounds like its trying to turn on but it wont) any suggestions?