Hello, I have a 1996 s10 4.3. I read on here that a ford taurus electric fan is a great fan to install if I want to put an electric fan on it. I was wondering how would I go about making this modification?
Register today for free or log-in if already registered to remove this ad!
Its only a great fan because it comes close to fitting as-is on the S10 without modification.
Here is a post I found digging around on the web:
Since I did my 3" Trailmaster body lift on my 1st gen I installed a 15" Hayden/Imperial e-fan because my clutch fan didn't line up with the radiator anymore and I didn't want to relocate the rad.... It seemed to work well for my 4.3 CPI Vortec... Well, that is until you ran the AC... When running the AC and being stuck in City traffic (Pittsburgh Rush hour) and blowing steam out of my rad 3 times.... Not seeing a justification for the price of the dual magic fan ($200.00) or even a used LS1 fan ($125.00) I decided to hunt down the popular Taurus dual speed electric fan.... After finding one (there were several) in my local wrecking yard, I picked one up for $35.00 (a bargain considering my hayden/imperial cost me 80 bux from Advance Autoparts)...
Since I already had my thermostat wiring, power, diodes in place for my hayden (using the s-seriesforum.org efan how-to for the wiring) I simply removed the top portion of my OEM 4.3 fan shroud and cut the zip/fin ties that held my Hayden/Imperial 15" fan on. (These are the same ones that come with most fans, they can be bought seperatly at advance for $2.00 for a pack of 4).
Taking my new/used 1996 Taurus 3.8 e-fan I lined it up against the rad and as everyone else claimed it fit damn near perfect. Only thing is you will have only an inch or so of space between the old fan studs on the water pump. If you feel unconfortable with this, simply gind off the excess studs down to the nuts.
I then drilled 2 holes on the top lip of the e-fan shroud and on either side of the lower cowling to run my sips through. Relingned the fan again against the radiator and drilled matching holes along the top side braces on the rad. Ran all the zips through the top and the fins towards the bottom and secured tightly... Replaced my oem fan shroud (with no cutting needed) to rebrace the top of the radiator...(I only used the OEM shroud because I was too lazy to fab my own braces for the rad).
I rewired my relays for dual speed (rather easy because I used edge connectors for all my wiring) and made new power connectors for the taurus fan. (It had the oem pigtail on it that I didn't want to cut it, it only took an additional 10 mins of making those connectors).
So I was ready to fire the fan up again (I had tested functionality with bare wires to the battery on the high and the low side and it was 93 degrees out). Started my truck and kicked the ac on just to fire the fan on the high side, worked fine)... After letting my truck warm up to operating tempreture and watching the readout on the Scantool (wasn't taking chances with my bargraph digitial dash temp because I wanted EXACT readings) I allowed the truck to climb to 200 degrees farenheit. Adjusting the themostat to come on at just below that (195) I let the truck idle in the driveway for about 25 minutes. The temp according to the scantool didn't get above 191 on low speed kick on. (low speed comes on at around 185 degrees farenheit). So I drove it hard around the area for about 10 mins watching the temp readout on the Scantool, and it only hit 195 once and immediately backed down to 190-191) Parking it back at my house I then put it to the real test, switcing on MAX AC, I let it sit and idle (This is with the hood closed) and doing work around the garage and cleaning up tools I popped my head inside the car every few mins to look at the scan tool... Still holding at 191 degrees farenheit!!! I decided to take a chance and go in the house and check my email, get some coffee, and have a cigarette... Forcing myself to stay in the house for almost 45 mins... I walked outside and checked the Scantool...It was at 192 degrees farenheit! (I'm not gonna quibble over a degree or 2)
Then I started thinking, is my sensor actually good? So as a final test I cut power to the fan and withing 2 minutes I was at a whopping 220 degrees farenheit! Arrg, damn thing works, I plug the power back in and watch the Scantool... Within 45 Seconds it was at 202 degrees, then in another minute it was back at 191. (This was with AC on). So I now know that my sensor works properly and I'm quite happy with the speed of the cool down aspect of this fan...
There is some debate on this fan as to the CFM output. I've seen everything from 2500-4000 with nothing definitive. I plan on talking to the local ford dealer and getting exact specs...
The bottom line is that I feel this is a good mod and a good fan overall. It's simple, it will work on any 4, 6, 8 cyl engine on any 1st or second gen truck. (Provided you have the engine cavity room on the 8 cyl). Wiring is simple, mounting is simple, you free up a few ponies by not having the engine drag of a clutch fan, it's quiet (no jet noise) and it's cheap!
My truck now runs at a solid tempreture instead of fluctuating wildly between 190 and 220 which I hope will translate into better/consistant gas miledge..we shall see. below I will post some pics including the s-seriesforum diagram which was well thought out. If you use the diagram, ignore the diode spec, any diode with a 5watt 500 volt load or better will work fine...It's just a diode...
Pictures of Taurus fan in my 1st gen 92 Blazer with a 4.3 Vortec CPI motor.
Note the space of the water pump studs from the fan... It actually is more than enough room, but you can grind them down to nuts..
A direct down shot of the same thing... Better perspective
This is a pic of my relays. I bolted them to the fender well. Note the use of covers and heatshrink. Also these relays are meant to be used for all purpose weather because they are sealed...Try not to use cheap relays that aren't epoxy sealed...
A Pic of my thermostat. The probe is attached the the rad about 2 inches from the inbound flow of the rad (hottest part of the radiator) The control unit is also attached to the fenderwell. I have 2 30 amp fuses inline. (You can use a single 50 amp fuse if you prefer) You can pick up this thermostat for $15.00 at your local Advance autoparts store...