S-10 & Blazer 1982-2005
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Still Missing after changing out and trying several parts

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Old March 3rd, 2015, 8:37 PM
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Default Still Missing after changing out and trying several parts

Hey guys I have a 92 chevy s 10 2.5 4 cylinder and I have checked and changed a lot of parts including the fuel pump, fp regulator, and tp sensor. I have tried another computer and map sensor. Changed the ECT sensor today as well as thermostat. Plugs were changed about 4 months ago, wires no more than 1-2 years and not much mileage on those as well as dizzy cap and rotor button. Also checked at night and there was some spark at each plug where the wire connects to the plug but sparks were not jumping all over the place at all.


I tried to find the wire to unplug to set the timing and just the other day found a wire that is the closest thing that can be that specific wire. It was under the dash near the fuse box on drivers side and it was brown with white stripe, connected to a male spade connector. It wasn't labled or anything though. Also there was one in the fuse box itself same color that went to a spot that said WDO or something like that. With either of those wires unplugged, either way I turned the dizzy in small increments either direction, I could not get it to totally level out and not sound like it was missing and somewhat motor shaking some. I had a timing light on it also. I can get it to run decent but it's not timed correctly or something else has it missing still some.


I also tried jumpering A n B with and without those wires connected and I did each separate at time, and talking about the wire to stop the timing from advancing (provided one of those were the correct wire). I did not see that wire anywhere else on the truck and not even under the pass side under dash. There was a solid brown wire that was unplugged when I took the computer out and my cousin said that's some sort of dash light wire. I didn't not even see a spot where that wire went to and I thouroughly looked. With jumpering A n B, the truck would die. I got my son to keep it idled until I could get back to under hood and I played with dizzy both directions in small increments and with it jumpered there was pretty much NO position that the truck would stay running. Maybe one slight spot it would run but really really really idle low and want to cut off.


I also while the truck was running unplugged several sensors to see if the truck would idle differently or run level and it didn't. I tried also checking for vacuum leaks.


When I scanned for codes about a week ago I got a code 34, 35, and 54.


one was for ,well here they are :


34-Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor-signal voltage is low during ignition on
35- Idle air control (IAC) system problem. Cannot set desired rpm or idle speed actuator (ISA)

54- 1. fuel pump cirtcuit fault or mixture control (M/C) solenoid fault or electronic control ( ECM) fault/EGR solenoid no. 2 failure (3.8L VIN 1)
2. Fuel pump relay


since got those codes I changed the fuel pump, tried a new computer and map sensor, cleaned the IAC. With new computer and map sensor plugged up truck still did same thing and I believe got the same codes. I think I cleared the codes after putting new parts on.


There was a thread on another forum where a guys Astro van was idling high some and he changed a lot of parts and stuff, including a new IAC and it still did it. Last thing he changed was ECTS because the sensor wasn't letting the computer know the vehicle was warm enough and it fixed his problem. I changed mine today and same thing. New ECTS and thermostat today. I'm going to get new wires and plugs ( on warranty should still be) and try. Hopefully the dizzy cap and rotor button is also.


I mean I can see where it might skip some while driving or skip a good bit but not to idle smoothly and stuff it doesn't seem like it should be the wires, plugs, rotor button.
Old March 4th, 2015, 2:54 PM
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