gsmith1380

I have a 2003 S-20 extended 4 door 4wd. I have intermittent starting problems. Turn the key and nothing, voltage gauge show 10 amps, this is not the norm, usually shows 14+. You can keep turning the key off and on, eventually it would start, now it's just dead.

I have checked the battery, it's good, pulled and checked the starter, checks good. Replace the starter relay in the fuse box on the fender. Replaced the ignition switch and harness. That was a chore not to mention the $85.00 for the switch and harness. Still won't start, nothing is changed, the voltage meter still shows 10amps. What am I missing? All the accessories work, power windows, horn, lights, radio, CD player. The ignition circuit is just dead and from the voltage meter I'm thinking a dead short somewhere.

HELP ME Please. I'm stranded w/o my truck, I'm living on SS SI until my disability kicks in after the new year. I don't have the money to tow it to a Chevy dealer or repair shop and get it fixed. I must do it myself. Please help me.

EinST

Welcome to the forum. Check the voltage at either side of the 40A IGN A fuse and then 20A IGN C fuse in the underhood fuse block against the negative battery terminal. It should be virtually identical to the voltage across the battery terminals. If not, there's something wrong with one of the battery cables, probably corroded inside the insulation.

gsmith1380

Went to pull the positive cable off today and replace it. Found a loose nut on the starter circuit wire. tighten it back down and reconnected the positive cable. Still no starter. Somebody suggested that if that ignition circuit wire at the starter was loose it may have been arcing and blew the fusable link on that wire.
Question is were to get another fuseable link and or how to make one. Thanks for your help. Broke and mech. challenged in St. Louis.

By the way this forum is great for information. Thanks again.

EinST

I don't know what context but that "it may have been arcing and blew the fusable link on that wire" makes no sense to me since there's no fusible link in the starting circuit paths. Unless you're an extremely lucky sort (I certainly have never), you need to be more systematic than that. If you can tell me the voltage measurements across the 40A IGN A fuse and the negative battery terminal and between the 20A IGN C fuse and the negative battery terminal, we'll have something to go on. Otherwise, hopefully you can find someone with a multimeter to help you.

gsmith1380

Yes I figured out that there is no fuseable link on the positive cable to starter. The only fuseable link I found was on the alternator lead to the battery. All the wires to the starter and on the starter are in ok condition. I'll locate an multimeter tomorrow and run the amp loads on the circuits you listed. I have located the IGN A 40 amp fuse and the Ign C 20 amp fuse. Should I also test the IGN B 50 amp fuse, IGN E 10 AMP fuse, and CRANK 10 amp fuse. Or am I getting ahead of myself. I also have replaced the starter relay in the fuse box.
Man Chevy sure made this ignition wiring complicated. There are more relays, junction blocks and fuses for what should be a simple circuit. Found the junction block under the battery holder, that was a surprise. I'll check continuity on all the junction block and cables tomorrow with the multitester, just to make sure. I did find a small amount of corrosion on the ends of the cable at the junction block, but nothing that I would think would cause the truck not to start, or be a dead short circuit. Anyway I digress. Thanks for all your help and I'll try to do things more systematic. I'll let you know what I find tomorrow.
gsmith1380

EinST

The reason I was curious about the IGN A fuse is because it's the source of power to the pull-in coil in the starter solenoid when the starter relay is energized. The IGN C fuse, on the other hand, is the source of power to the control coil in the starter relay through the ignition switch, 10A CRANK fuse, and then the PNP switch (closed with the shift lever in P or N). If you read significantly lower voltages at the IGN A and/or IGN C than the battery positive terminal (with reference being the battery negative terminal), there has to be a reason. Then, upstream of both fuses which are the big 175A BATTERY fuse and then the battery positive terminal.

I'd suggest not to worry about "amp loads," but concentrate on voltages and resistances. Mind, sometimes cables can ohm out good but not enough conductor strands are left to pass sufficient current. Also, I probably don't need to mention but cables from the battery negative terminal should not be overlooked.

gsmith1380

Got it started. finally. Started from scratch, pulled and tested the starter and battery. Both checked out good, again. Cleaned ALL the connections from the battery to the starter, found a couple of small issues at the starter connections. One loose connection at the solenoid wire, and a bent connection positioner tab on the ignition circuit wire. Fixed and reconnected everything, recharged the battery and it started. So I suppose it must have been either the battery connections or the connections at the starter. Never did run the circuits with the multi-meter. Gonna have to learn how to use a multi-tester, could have saved me a lot of time and frustration. Just got lucky, I guess. Anyway thanks for all the suggestions and assistance EinST.

EinST

Thanks for the update. Too often we get no feedback from folks. Yes, a multimeter is almost a must-have nowadays and cheap, too.

gsmith1380

Yeah I bought one Saturday and had planned on using it, but since the truck started I didn't use it. Still debating with myself about keeping it or returning it and getting my money back. Guess I should keep it, that way I might actually read the instruction and learn how to use it.... Maybe.
I know what you mean about lack of feedback after giving advice. Happens all the time on another forum that I use for 1911s.

kevinkpk

You might want to keep it. I am a tech on long term medical. I had a Fluke 189 for work, but lost it due to my condition. So i ended up buying a VOM from autozone as not only do I need one for my vehicles, but around the house ect. Would that be model 1911's?