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  #11  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:16 AM
myotherchevyisablazer myotherchevyisablazer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter0909 View Post
Jeez that looks complicated. Grew up in Texas, never had to worry about this smog crap til I moved to California.
scooter what part of ca you from?

red
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2009, 03:27 PM
Scooter0909 Scooter0909 is offline
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1984 Chevrolet K Blazer
 
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Fresno, CA
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2009, 04:05 PM
myotherchevyisablazer myotherchevyisablazer is offline
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i was wondering how much you really like that blazer?is it something you have been working on awhile?

im not trying to crash the party but..........if there is no smog whatsoever on your blazer it's going to be a huge headache,california has a bunch of tree hugging hippies all worried about the world melting away...

ive got a couple of trucks with every single piece of smog garbage on it and sometimes it's hard for them to pass the test...

...imho if i were you i would source another blazer or similiar truck around that year buy it and take all the smog crap from it....there are plenty to pick from and it's easier when the donor vehicle is right in front of ya....


red
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2009, 02:34 AM
Scooter0909 Scooter0909 is offline
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1984 Chevrolet K Blazer
 
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Well, I'd hate to give up on it, but I see what you're saying. I'm going to probably go down to the chevy house tomorrow to see if I can look at some pictures. My dad and uncle know the owner, so I can probably get a good look at their Chiltons.
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2009, 01:44 PM
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tm4hammer tm4hammer is offline
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1996 Chevrolet Suburban
 
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Location: colorado
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Default hippies and yuppies only dif is a hair cut

You say you have all the components to your blaz ? just a couple of things to consider, that will help you choose what direction you should go! first i will start with the most expensive if they need to be replaced ok check the carb and see if its compatible for smog control and rated and tuned for this engine and years smog emisions requirments. next check the smog pump bearings insure that the pulley turns freely and there isnt any gravely feel or noticable resistance , next prefit the pump and bracket to the lower left of engine aline mounting holes and insure pulley's line up with the others.those were the most costly of components , look for old wire harrness you might need a wiring schematic for color code it might be tucked away or hanging around back firewall still intact , look along left frame rail for lines still instaled to tank or equiptment still installed the rest you can test individully but dont rely on after market generic manuels to heavly and if you do dont be suprised if they conterdict or are in error, try to get ahold of the factory shop manuel , sometimes library's have them or can hook you up online. they are pact full of all the testing procedures for all these individual components so you know they work before they are installed and wiring schematics specific to your year,model,and options . what looks complicated and seems complicated on the drawing really is not most are just hoses and what looks like a big part are small inline components that dont mount to any thing , if the first two check out then thats half the battle and a little research and preperation can save you alot ad give you more options in the long run. Like Red said sometimes its easier to scrap one to make one i have scrapped many and harvested the more desireble and expensive or parts that could be used for future projects and in most cases have made more than i paid for the donor and got the parts i wanted and used those parts in every truck i own and i get reminded everytime i grab one of those parts that i just saved myself the price of a new one it adds up and you have what you normally would not if you had to pay for it good luck
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Last edited by tm4hammer; 09-24-2009 at 01:57 PM.
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