You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Chevrolet forum today!
If you havent checked your thermostat I would pull it out, it may be stuck closed, yes, a t-stat lets the hot coolant flow to the radiator, if its stuck,the system is jammed and not flowing. Id replace it anyway since your doing the pump job as well.
Or just remove the t-stat and run it without it, if it still gets too hot there is a restriction somewhere other than the t-stat.
Register today for free or log-in if already registered to remove this ad!
__________________
For the wife - 04 5.3 Tahoe Black, fully loaded.
Last edited by Mike Sigmond; 09-23-2009 at 08:52 PM.
If the car over heats while in motion then you most likely have a restriction in the radiator. Depending on how many times you have overheated it ans how hot it has been you may have blown the head gasket.
__________________
SHOP FOREMAN/SERVICE MANAGER
GOSS GARAGE (PAT GOSS FROM MOTORWEEK TV )
AC DELCO TSS SHOP
ASE MASTER, L1 EMISSIONS CERTIFIED
If you havent checked your thermostat I would pull it out, it may be stuck closed, yes, a t-stat lets the hot coolant flow to the radiator, if its stuck,the system is jammed and not flowing. Id replace it anyway since your doing the pump job as well.
Or just remove the t-stat and run it without it, if it still gets too hot there is a restriction somewhere other than the t-stat.
We can rule out the T-stat. Replaced it, no difference. Removed it entirely, no difference.
If the car over heats while in motion then you most likely have a restriction in the radiator. Depending on how many times you have overheated it ans how hot it has been you may have blown the head gasket.
The car has never overheated to the point when it dies. It's gotten mighty hot before, but I've always pulled over and turned it off to let it cool off. So I don't think (pray) it's the head gasket.
I'm beginning to suspect the radiator as you do. One look inside it and you can see that it's full of gunk. That stupid dex-cool fouls up the coils on the inside really bad.
Maybe I'll drop the $130 for a new radiator. So help me, if that doesn't fix this, I'm going to go drive this car off the interstate. Preferably before it overheats.
Dex-cool does not cause problems. That is only assumed by misinformed consumers. The problem with dex-cool is that is air gets into the system it causes sludge. Air gets in by a bad rad cap (should be changed every year) or a slow coolant leak that is left to leak. Also people believe that it is good for 5 years or 150,000 miles but that is not completely true, it actually says up to 5 years or 150,000 ( in perfect situations) (no air getting in).
__________________
SHOP FOREMAN/SERVICE MANAGER
GOSS GARAGE (PAT GOSS FROM MOTORWEEK TV )
AC DELCO TSS SHOP
ASE MASTER, L1 EMISSIONS CERTIFIED
A car does not have to overheat until it quits to blow the head gasket. It could blow with even on time into the red (usually not), the more times it happens the more likely it will blow.
__________________
SHOP FOREMAN/SERVICE MANAGER
GOSS GARAGE (PAT GOSS FROM MOTORWEEK TV )
AC DELCO TSS SHOP
ASE MASTER, L1 EMISSIONS CERTIFIED
if the radiator is plugged up with **** and you dont see any signs of coolant in the oil or have not seen white smoke and the coolant is clean and after you have insured that exhuast gases are not entering the system by performing this test drain the coolant to a level just above the tops of the heads , remove upper rad. Hose , thermostat and fan belt start the car and have someone rev it up a few times while you look into thermo. Flange if the coolant rises quit a bit or you see bubbles it may be exaust gases leaking into coolant system if then and removing all the same crap thats in the rad.your satisfied that you dont have a wrecked head gasket or even if you do then you might want to consider flushing the block with a commercial strength scale removing rad. Flush. That way it is done and there are some passeges that are damn hard to get to !with car running add it to system and run car for 15 to 20 minutes if you are using a chemical solvent high strength i would remove and isolate heater hoses it will jack up the heater core after flush and a neutralizer and flush a couple times when you have put it all back together add a rust inhibitor and sealant pellets it will they will give pump and internal parts an extended life and help coat passages thats all i got bud, luck on the heads