03 Express - Hyrdoboost & Steering/Brake Issue
#1
03 Express - Hyrdoboost & Steering/Brake Issue
Hey Everyone!
So I assume others might have run into a similar issue so I wanted to reach out on any direct routes to fixes here...
My 03 Express 3500 recently crapped out mid a 2-3 hour drive when my brakes started getting incredibly tight and my power steering locked up. Looked into the hyrdo-boost and noticed a bit of leakage in my driveway this morning as well. So my question is, is the best route to minimizing future headaches here just replacing the power steering pump? Any best practices? This was kind of scary and I'd like to prevent it from happening again. Thanks!
So I assume others might have run into a similar issue so I wanted to reach out on any direct routes to fixes here...
My 03 Express 3500 recently crapped out mid a 2-3 hour drive when my brakes started getting incredibly tight and my power steering locked up. Looked into the hyrdo-boost and noticed a bit of leakage in my driveway this morning as well. So my question is, is the best route to minimizing future headaches here just replacing the power steering pump? Any best practices? This was kind of scary and I'd like to prevent it from happening again. Thanks!
#3
What's a best practice for finding a good mechanic who would know these vans? I don't really have a guy per-se and want to get this handled as quickly as I can. - Best to search for a Chevy dealer?
#5
So went and got some power steering fluid today and thought once I threw a whole quart in it might give me some time.... literally the majority of it leaked out of the underside and now noticable difference to the steering or brakes....... a tow might be in order here
#7
Tagging this onto an old post so folks will have the info for a 'quick & easy' / 'it works' method of bleeding the air after working on a hydroboost. Picked up this tip from a Ford forum (but referred to a Chevy hydroboost system the guy had worked on.)
In a nutshell he said the system will self bleed - the return line feeds from the booster right to the reservoir BUT IF you can't seem to get the pedal back after replacing hoses, pump, gearbox etc... then just try pumping the pedal all the way down with your engine off, holding it down firmly and then starting the engine. Keep pedal pressed down hard & cut off. Pump a few times, hold down hard - restart. Repeat this 2 or 3 times. The accumulator gets "air locked" with line pressure from air & won't cycle back. Fluid won't go in when the accumulator is already charged with air.
Worked for me & I had little to no foaming and no noise after changing pressure lines.
In a nutshell he said the system will self bleed - the return line feeds from the booster right to the reservoir BUT IF you can't seem to get the pedal back after replacing hoses, pump, gearbox etc... then just try pumping the pedal all the way down with your engine off, holding it down firmly and then starting the engine. Keep pedal pressed down hard & cut off. Pump a few times, hold down hard - restart. Repeat this 2 or 3 times. The accumulator gets "air locked" with line pressure from air & won't cycle back. Fluid won't go in when the accumulator is already charged with air.
Worked for me & I had little to no foaming and no noise after changing pressure lines.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Junior Member
I replaced the hydrobooster on my 2007 express 2500 early last summer. It really wasn't that difficult. Be aware that all are not alike. I purchased mine from Autozone. The counter person was very helpful in that there are 2 different models for my vehicle. Getting the correct one involved disconnecting the rod from the pedal and making note of a particular number stamped on it. The number is a designation of rod length. Very important. There was a youtube video that help out.