V12TT

I totaled my 99 Suburban in 03 and I always like the look of that model. Recently I found a 97 GMC Suburban with 170k miles one owner. The gig looks good cosmetics. It's being driven by a 60+yrs old guy. He never takes it to 4x4 or tow anything with it.
Recently, it starts shaking so the guy took it to an Indy shop. The shop troubleshoot it to no compression on cylinder #4. The shop replaced V/C gasket, PC wire set, dist cap, dist rotor, spark plugs and charged him a bunch of $ but the problem didn't go away. He took it back and the shop wants ~$2500 more. He can't tell me for what...
He brought the gig to a GM dealer and the dealership ship told him he needs a new engine $3700 before any labor.
Currently the gig is running normally with no CEL. It shakes on idle.
Is this shaking issue can be fixed with minimal cost? Wanted to hear your guy opinions before I pulled the trigger.
Nothing major were done to the gig over the last 20yrs so I think most rubber parts will need to be replaced. Thanks in advance.

falconbrother

I recently bought a 2000 Chevy Suburban 1500 4x4. I got it from a used car dealer. He found it in a junk yard with a blown engine (5.3). He found a 2007 - 2013 engine at the same junk yard with 40,000 miles on it and had the engine installed in the 2000 model. I got the burb cheap, cheaper than anyone I had seen anywhere. My neighbor works for Chevy and told me that my total cost is less than the dealer charges for a new engine replacement. He also had the driver's seat reupholstered, new tires and new front brakes. I had to: get the differential rebuilt (expensive), service the transmission and filter (cheap), replace the parking brakes (cheap), fix the tow-haul (free), replace the woofer and two door speakers (cheap), replace light bulbs in the instrument cluster (cheap and easy), lube the chassis (free-ish). The burb is clean and runs great. The 4x4 works fantastic. I'm still in for less than market value for a nice, clean, great driving suburban.

My point is to do the math and see what your bottom line is. If you think that your total cost is what you expect to pay to get what you want then do it. The 2500 series burbs are pretty awesome. If I could find a long block that would bolt into that engine bay pretty reasonably and the total investment was still reasonable I'd go for it. But, if it's putting you over the average market value then you gotta really want it. Personally, I would keep looking. There are deals out there if you're patient.

oldchevy

No compression on #4. What are the compression readings on the other cylinders? I would stay away from it as it does need an engine rebuild and getting it to idle if you can is only a band aid. If you can get it cheap enough and do an engine swap then maybe, but only you can make that decision.

V12TT

All others read 140. Sounds like the issue comes from the bottom. Are there major works for just that one cylinder?

oldchevy

Take off the valve cover and look at the rocker and lifter. You will have to pull the head.

V12TT

The guy would not let me touch the engine before purchase. The gig is in very good condition beside the engine. Is $2k offer reasonable or is that too low?

oldchevy

With a bad engine you have to factor in the cost of repair or replacement also. You will need to repair it.

V12TT

What's required for an engine rebuild. Does the engine need to be removed in order to access the bottom side?
Sounds dumb but I have no ideas on the requirements. I'm not a mechanic and the closest thing I did was to remove the header gasket for an oil leak.

oldchevy

Check it on KBB. $2000 is too much. If you can remove the oil pan easily then it can be worked on in the truck although it is much more difficult.

V12TT

I got a chance to take a look at this rig today. There are oil leaks all over the bottom oil pans. The coolant level was low so I stick a hose into the oil fill opening and pulled out muddy sludge
Looks like that's the cause for the compression issue. Run away? Is this fixable if the price is right?