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00 Silverado intermittently won't start Trouble Code p1351

Old August 27th, 2012, 9:16 PM
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Default 00 Silverado intermittently won't start Trouble Code p1351

I had originally posted the other day. I didn't do a good job "intrepreting" the sounds and symptoms described by my wife. It happened to me today, so I can now accurately describe the symptoms.

My truck has 192,xxx miles on it and has been practically a one owner vehicle. It has given me very few problems... until now. My wife said the truck wouldn't start. I wrongly assumed that the truck was dead... so I had the battery checked and replaced. The problem went away until she tried to start it again. I drove it the next day, and it was fine. I tried to start it today and it wouldn't start. (at first)

It sounds like it wants to start. The starter works and turns the engine over, but won't fire up. I did finally get to start. I took it to the auto parts store and they pulled trouble code p1351 (ICM Ignition Control Circuit High Voltage)

There are so many possible causes and fixes listed... I don't know where to start.

Here's what O'Reilly automotive said:

Possible Causes:

ICM control circuit is open, shorted to ground or shorted to voltage
ICM has failed
ICM ignition circuit is open (check power from the PCM1 fuse)
PCM has failed

Reported Fixes:

Replace Distributor Assembly
Repair Ignition Coil Wiring
Replace Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Replace cylinder head gasket(s)
Replace distributor cap
Replace distributor rotor
replace fuel pump
replace ignition module
repair ignition module connector

I don't know where to start...

Has anyone else had this problem? Again it is intermittent
Old August 28th, 2012, 6:24 PM
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I'd probably start with the ignition control module. When was the last tune up? Recently with quality parts? If so, rule out cap and rotor for now. Check wires at distributor for signs of trouble and clean your grounds. I not completely certain but I don't think it would start if it was the crank position sensor stopped working. Failing fuel pumps generally have signs that they are going before they just stop working. It's your call on the head gaskets.... White smoke out of the exhaust? Process of elimination puts me at ICM as a place to start.
Old August 28th, 2012, 7:45 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpychevy
I'd probably start with the ignition control module. When was the last tune up? Recently with quality parts? If so, rule out cap and rotor for now. Check wires at distributor for signs of trouble and clean your grounds. I not completely certain but I don't think it would start if it was the crank position sensor stopped working. Failing fuel pumps generally have signs that they are going before they just stop working. It's your call on the head gaskets.... White smoke out of the exhaust? Process of elimination puts me at ICM as a place to start.
Thanks for the reply...

I was just logging on to say that the problem has been solved when I saw your suggestion.

It was in fact the ICM. $78 and a couple dirty hands and its done.
Old August 28th, 2012, 8:47 PM
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Good to here the problem is fixed.
Old August 30th, 2012, 8:45 AM
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Originally Posted by grumpychevy
Good to here the problem is fixed.
I spoke too soon... The same problem is back...

Guess I'll replace the rotor and distributor next or maybe the coil...

Need to work on it saturday but the remnants of Hurricane Isaac will be dumping a deluge of rain on St. Louis by then...
Old September 2nd, 2012, 6:00 PM
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okay, here's what I've done so far. I have replaced the distributor, the plug wires, the Ignition Control Module and the crankshaft position sensor. I swapped out the entire ignition switch which was costly but did not fix the problem. I have also tested the fuel pressure. it tests around 60 PSI and then drops to around 50 P S I. if I put starting fluid in the throttle body it runs for a little bit. I was getting an error code P 1351... for some reason, I don't know why, the error went away when I started replacing the plug wires. I think I had more than 1 problem but they are not related.

I really don't want to have to tear out the entire upper intake manifold. my guess now yes I feel pressure regulator which is inside the intake...

did I mention that I am doing all this in the parking lot at my work? I don't even have the luxury of going into my own house and using the bathroom. no access to all my power tools only what I brought with me

I am pulling my hair out!

someone please help!

Last edited by Tony_B.; September 2nd, 2012 at 9:54 PM.
Old September 2nd, 2012, 6:47 PM
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If it is a 5.3 vortec, the regulator sits on the left side of the engine. Pull the hose off it, if you have fuel, it is bad. If it runs with starting fluid it isn't ignition. That code is distributor hi voltage, since it went away, and will run, it's fuel. You state pressure looks good, check the regulator. My 00sub had a low idle issue turned out to be the regulator. It also could be something in the system shutting fuel off to the engine.
Old September 2nd, 2012, 9:14 PM
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It's a 4.3 v6... The regulator is under the plenum...

Someone suggested the egr...

Don't know... Probably will have to have it towed...
Old August 26th, 2013, 8:04 PM
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I have a truck that's doing the exact same thing I've put over 2k in new parts and still haven't fixed it .how did you fix yours ?
Old August 29th, 2013, 5:43 PM
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Default help me!!!!

I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 4.3 v6 with the same problem it would not start all the time and now it will not start at all,I have changed the ignition module, the ignition coil, crankshaft sensor and have checked all the wires for spark I have a good spark but it will not turn over. Help me please I am pulling my hair out..........and not to mention when I put starting fluid in the engine it will not start even more so.

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