00 Silverado intermittently won't start Trouble Code p1351
December 20th, 2014, 2:45 PM
#11
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Please HELP!!
okay, here's what I've done so far. I have replaced the distributor, the plug wires, the Ignition Control Module and the crankshaft position sensor. I swapped out the entire ignition switch which was costly but did not fix the problem. I have also tested the fuel pressure. it tests around 60 PSI and then drops to around 50 P S I. if I put starting fluid in the throttle body it runs for a little bit. I was getting an error code P 1351... for some reason, I don't know why, the error went away when I started replacing the plug wires. I think I had more than 1 problem but they are not related.
I really don't want to have to tear out the entire upper intake manifold. my guess now yes I feel pressure regulator which is inside the intake...
did I mention that I am doing all this in the parking lot at my work? I don't even have the luxury of going into my own house and using the bathroom. no access to all my power tools only what I brought with me
I am pulling my hair out!
someone please help!
I really don't want to have to tear out the entire upper intake manifold. my guess now yes I feel pressure regulator which is inside the intake...
did I mention that I am doing all this in the parking lot at my work? I don't even have the luxury of going into my own house and using the bathroom. no access to all my power tools only what I brought with me
I am pulling my hair out!
someone please help!
Thank you for any help you can afford.
December 27th, 2014, 3:54 PM
#12
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Dont mean to jump in your thread,not sure how to post yet.I have a 04 silverado 6.0.Until monday of last week had no problems.It has sat about a month without starting,I went to town was running rough and at stops had to shift to neutral to keep it from dying. When I got home with it she died and know just will turn over and not fire.The crazy thing is when I try agin to start it it`s nothing I mean no starter click ,all electric fans and stuff work,just acts like starter dead nothing.wait awhile go out same thing will crank no fire then nothing no crank at all?? any ideas out there? Once again sorry to jump in your thread.
January 23rd, 2016, 4:15 PM
#13
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Use/Make New Key! Start with the key!!
My old school classic style 2000 GMC quad cab 4wd, vortec 350, GMC does not have a chip in the key, so I never thought of this!
I got that code out of the blue and couldn't get rid of it or get the truck reliable, so, like every other person on any thread anywhere has done with a P1351 code, I replaced just about everything on the truck - coil, battery, ignition control module, complete distributor, plugs, wires, starter, voltage regulator/alternator, crank sensor- everything except the BIG computer...and that was next!
Even looked for shorts in the wiring and patched up a few frayed spots. After and intermittently in between each of the 20 things I fixed/replaced the 'Service Engine Soon' light would go off and come back on after each repair or 10-20 starts in between each repair... Mechanic after mechanic.... money after money... tow fees...
UNTIL last night, when an old master said he recommended I try a new key, the original key if possible. So I went home, got the original key, put it in, SES light went out. Got a new key made at the home depot and used it all day. All appears well after driving it all day and intentionally starting it 30 times during the day.
He said that it has something to do with the built in security system-- if the key is worn, and after 15 years it IS, mine so worn I could pull it out of the ignition with the truck running (and I liked that because I farm and I didn't have to restart the truck after getting out and getting back in after unlocking and opening 3 gates a day...6 times a day!)
If it's worn it doesn't always hit the tumblers right and if it doesn't hit the lock tumblers right you can crank and crank but the security system won't fire the cylinders... or for sure it won't fit right every time, and so it prevent cranking intermittently, never knowing when that will happen. EVEN IF you don't have a chip in your key, it does have some type magnetic operation about the tumbler connection that trips or doesn't trip that start-up security system, and a worn key won't hit right and trip or untrip the security system right every time.
SO......Took original key and had new key made. Did notice that the original key and the new key will not pull out of ignition like my old key did, and so far, so good, Mystery solved for me. This time.
My old school classic style 2000 GMC quad cab 4wd, vortec 350, GMC does not have a chip in the key, so I never thought of this!
I got that code out of the blue and couldn't get rid of it or get the truck reliable, so, like every other person on any thread anywhere has done with a P1351 code, I replaced just about everything on the truck - coil, battery, ignition control module, complete distributor, plugs, wires, starter, voltage regulator/alternator, crank sensor- everything except the BIG computer...and that was next!
Even looked for shorts in the wiring and patched up a few frayed spots. After and intermittently in between each of the 20 things I fixed/replaced the 'Service Engine Soon' light would go off and come back on after each repair or 10-20 starts in between each repair... Mechanic after mechanic.... money after money... tow fees...
UNTIL last night, when an old master said he recommended I try a new key, the original key if possible. So I went home, got the original key, put it in, SES light went out. Got a new key made at the home depot and used it all day. All appears well after driving it all day and intentionally starting it 30 times during the day.
He said that it has something to do with the built in security system-- if the key is worn, and after 15 years it IS, mine so worn I could pull it out of the ignition with the truck running (and I liked that because I farm and I didn't have to restart the truck after getting out and getting back in after unlocking and opening 3 gates a day...6 times a day!)
If it's worn it doesn't always hit the tumblers right and if it doesn't hit the lock tumblers right you can crank and crank but the security system won't fire the cylinders... or for sure it won't fit right every time, and so it prevent cranking intermittently, never knowing when that will happen. EVEN IF you don't have a chip in your key, it does have some type magnetic operation about the tumbler connection that trips or doesn't trip that start-up security system, and a worn key won't hit right and trip or untrip the security system right every time.
SO......Took original key and had new key made. Did notice that the original key and the new key will not pull out of ignition like my old key did, and so far, so good, Mystery solved for me. This time.
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