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1988 cruise control problem
May 21st, 2010, 12:25 PM
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1988 cruise control problem
guess my trucks a little old for some people. So my problem is that the crusise control is hard to get to engage. It is the type where you click the switch on the turn signal, then push the button and it should engage. Now I have to push the button like ten times before it finally engages the cruise. Can you give me a location and description of the part to replace. Think a used bone yard part is a good replacement. thanks
October 14th, 2010, 7:19 PM
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I when thru mine last week. I used a friends all-data to find a wiring diagram.
With a VOM (DC Volts) you can do all of the troubleshooting from the harness that plugs into the cruise control actuator that's mounted near the brake booster.
I had two problems. There are two switches attached to the brake pedal that are wired in series. The easiest to remove, has two wires and it interupts voltage to the cruise actuator when you hit the breaks....it was sticking open. Advance Auto wanted $131 for the switch. I disassembled the switch and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and it worked as it should. I reinstalled it. I next checked all the other circuits and found no problems I looked into the actuator and saw moisture. I cleaned it but it still didn't work. I when to a Pick & Pull and got a used actuator for $13.75. I installed the electronics from the junk yard actuator and it worked. You really can't troubleshoot the actuator, just see that everthing else works and change it. There is a part number on the side of the electronic part of the actuator (you have to remore 4 screws and lift the electronic off to see it)....take with you to the junk yard. I had the rear wheels supended on jack stands while I did my testing. When you test the VSS circuit you have to be reading A/C on the meter.
With a VOM (DC Volts) you can do all of the troubleshooting from the harness that plugs into the cruise control actuator that's mounted near the brake booster.
I had two problems. There are two switches attached to the brake pedal that are wired in series. The easiest to remove, has two wires and it interupts voltage to the cruise actuator when you hit the breaks....it was sticking open. Advance Auto wanted $131 for the switch. I disassembled the switch and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and it worked as it should. I reinstalled it. I next checked all the other circuits and found no problems I looked into the actuator and saw moisture. I cleaned it but it still didn't work. I when to a Pick & Pull and got a used actuator for $13.75. I installed the electronics from the junk yard actuator and it worked. You really can't troubleshoot the actuator, just see that everthing else works and change it. There is a part number on the side of the electronic part of the actuator (you have to remore 4 screws and lift the electronic off to see it)....take with you to the junk yard. I had the rear wheels supended on jack stands while I did my testing. When you test the VSS circuit you have to be reading A/C on the meter.
May 29th, 2016, 11:36 AM
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I when thru mine last week. I used a friends all-data to find a wiring diagram.
With a VOM (DC Volts) you can do all of the troubleshooting from the harness that plugs into the cruise control actuator that's mounted near the brake booster.
I had two problems. There are two switches attached to the brake pedal that are wired in series. The easiest to remove, has two wires and it interupts voltage to the cruise actuator when you hit the breaks....it was sticking open. Advance Auto wanted $131 for the switch. I disassembled the switch and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and it worked as it should. I reinstalled it. I next checked all the other circuits and found no problems I looked into the actuator and saw moisture. I cleaned it but it still didn't work. I when to a Pick & Pull and got a used actuator for $13.75. I installed the electronics from the junk yard actuator and it worked. You really can't troubleshoot the actuator, just see that everthing else works and change it. There is a part number on the side of the electronic part of the actuator (you have to remore 4 screws and lift the electronic off to see it)....take with you to the junk yard. I had the rear wheels supended on jack stands while I did my testing. When you test the VSS circuit you have to be reading A/C on the meter.
With a VOM (DC Volts) you can do all of the troubleshooting from the harness that plugs into the cruise control actuator that's mounted near the brake booster.
I had two problems. There are two switches attached to the brake pedal that are wired in series. The easiest to remove, has two wires and it interupts voltage to the cruise actuator when you hit the breaks....it was sticking open. Advance Auto wanted $131 for the switch. I disassembled the switch and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and it worked as it should. I reinstalled it. I next checked all the other circuits and found no problems I looked into the actuator and saw moisture. I cleaned it but it still didn't work. I when to a Pick & Pull and got a used actuator for $13.75. I installed the electronics from the junk yard actuator and it worked. You really can't troubleshoot the actuator, just see that everthing else works and change it. There is a part number on the side of the electronic part of the actuator (you have to remore 4 screws and lift the electronic off to see it)....take with you to the junk yard. I had the rear wheels supended on jack stands while I did my testing. When you test the VSS circuit you have to be reading A/C on the meter.
April 13th, 2021, 5:06 PM
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One needs the other.
The cruise control manages speed via a signal from the speedometer. You have to have a working speedometer or one of the speedometer control modules from a later year for it to work.
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August 21st, 2023, 8:17 AM
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Sending unit
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