BurninRubber92

It could be one of the numerous sensors, a code in the engine management system, or it could just be the fact that the rpm isn't enough to keep it running and it stalls on it's own.

ukrkoz

ahhhh.... do you have chipped key? as if that security light blinks, then something ain't right with SECURITY items, and chipped key comes to my head first. as if ECM does not recognize the key, it'll shut down the fuel pump - and you stall, right?
i had a chipped key on my cr-v that won't start the car once in blue moon. i just hid it in the car as an emergency spare and was using the other key.
hey, try switching keys and see what happens, right?

RicJac

I'm with holyspatulaboyas far as the TPS, but I didn't have to adjust the idle. Just make sure that your are recieving the correct voltage at each pin at the connectors, with and with the TPS loaded. This is just based on experiences with my truck.

sgiles

it could also be a Mass Air Flow sensor - remove it and clean it with a cotton swab

lymanej

I have had the same problem, but slightly different. When the vehicle is cold it will start and run fine. After a few minutes of running and when i dropped the speed to about 35 miles an hour it would stall out. The battery light would turn on and the engine oil change reset would activate. I have not noticed the security light flashing, but I will try to pay attention. I just had a triple bypass and I really don't need this problem right now. What I have noticed is the amp guage would drop at idle. I took my truck to Advance and they said there was nothing wrong with the charging system or battery, but there was a drain on the battery with the ignition off; approx. .98 amps plus or minus. I first suspected a fuel pump. I have been repairing vehicles for a long time, and I really don't think it's the fuel pump. At least I hope it's not. The only problem I have ever had with this vehicle is sometimes after a fill up the check engine light will iluminate. After reaserching, it is the pressure switch in the fuel tank. This tells the computer the cap is not correct. Minor problem. I checked the relay. I don't think I have ever had to replace one. But one can never tell. I know there is a recall on the guage cluster. I think this is just the start of a problem. I am going to replace the fuel pump for s and giggles and hope for the best. But I think their is a deeper problem at hand. The crank shaft sensor usually prevents the vehicle from starting. Map sensor makes vehicle run rough, but at least lets you run on limp mode. I will check and keep posting until problem is resolved. If you need a question answered or if you would like to respond to me directly. My email is lymansterms@gmail.com

lymanej

I have had the same problem, but slightly different. When the vehicle is cold it will start and run fine. After a few minutes of running and when i dropped the speed to about 35 miles an hour it would stall out. The battery light would turn on and the engine oil change reset would activate. I have not noticed the security light flashing, but I will try to pay attention. I just had a triple bypass and I really don't need this problem right now. What I have noticed is the amp guage would drop at idle. I took my truck to Advance and they said there was nothing wrong with the charging system or battery, but there was a drain on the battery with the ignition off; approx. .98 amps plus or minus. I first suspected a fuel pump. I have been repairing vehicles for a long time, and I really don't think it's the fuel pump. At least I hope it's not. The only problem I have ever had with this vehicle is sometimes after a fill up the check engine light will iluminate. After reaserching, it is the pressure switch in the fuel tank. This tells the computer the cap is not correct. Minor problem. I checked the relay. I don't think I have ever had to replace one. But one can never tell. I know there is a recall on the guage cluster. I think this is just the start of a problem. I am going to replace the fuel pump for s and giggles and hope for the best. But I think their is a deeper problem at hand. The crank shaft sensor usually prevents the vehicle from starting. Map sensor makes vehicle run rough, but at least lets you run on limp mode. I will check and keep posting until problem is resolved. If you need a question answered or if you would like to respond to me directly. My email is lymansterms@gmail.com

tlkleen

My 2003 5.3 was stalling at low idle. Took it to the dealer and they made some adjustments and replaced the alternator and battery. Now it's showing baterry not charging ang upon accelleration the voltage drops down to red. They have now replaced the altenator for a third time and still having the same problem. Scared to take it back to them for fear of being charged another $1000. Does anyone know anything about throttle switch or sensor? My husband thaink it has something to do with that, but is still just guessing.

OrangeBlood

I also have a 2001 Chevy Silverado I am having problems with, and could use some suggestions. It quit running, determined the fuel pump was bad, replaced itthe filter and fuel pressure regulator, and it started running right away. Drove it two days, next morning it would not start. It sounded like it would hit but never would stay running.Pulled it to the local garage, the next day they went to work on it and it started right up with no codes and no check engine light. Picked it up, next day check engine light came back, that was the gas cap...apparently you are not supposed to let the engine run when refueling. So now I am on the road but when driving in say a 40 or 45 MPH zone and you push the gas peddle to build speed the engine misses, and bucks, and hesitats. It you just push right on down on the peddle the transmission down shifts and rpm's go up to, or over 2000 and it seems to run fine. But just as soon as you slow downlike starting up a hill and you push on the gas it does it again, and it is getting worst very fast. If you do not push on down on the gas and increase the rpm's and you let itcontinue to miss the entire truck jerks and bucks and thecheck engine light flashes a few times. I have a OBD II code P0453, Evaporative Emmission Control System Pressure Senor High Input. I am seeing everything from "Open or Short in vapor pressure sensor circuit" "Bad vapor pressure sensor" "Bad ECM"and "wiring short on the ground" at various locations on the net. Not sure if this relates to the "2001 Chevy Silverado stalls" topic here but I sure could use some help if anyone has seen or heard of these issues.

OrangeBlood

Lymanej - You have probably already gotten your problem fixed by now,but for those who may be having problemnow I have some information. My problem was a little different than yours, my fuel pump did fail, in my research I found that when these pumps start failing the wire harness will heat up and become brittle and the contacts in the plug will not make good contact and arc until they fail completely, my wire insulation was very hard and brittle.The new pump came with a new harness and tank seal from RockAuto.comand the installation is not to bad. I don't think there should be power there if the key is off, but who knows it is possible this is the short you are looking for, these pumps are notorious problems.I found out when replacing the pumpnot toremove the tank, remove the bed, (8) bolts (2)harness plugs and the tank inlet, (2) guys can lift it off, much easier than trying to disconnect the (3) lines on top of the tank and deal with all that dirt and tank weight.Also ifyour pump does fail you will probably get an error code of P0451, P0452 or P0453, after replacing the pump just clear the code, it takes a number of run periods for the computer to clear it on its own. This code is what I was trying to trouble shoot and it was no longer valid because the faulty pump caused the code and I replacedit,and none of the forums I read toldmeto just clear it, if it comes back, (probably won't) then worry about it. My issue stated below was caused by (2) spark plug wires getting burnt at their base, (second 5.3 this happen to me on)but I was stuck on this code.Desided to replace the plugs, and wires and the truck immediately smoothed out and is running great. (Probably shouldn't have said that out load) But, I still had the code so I wrote it down and clearedit with a Wal Mart purchased handheld OBD II reader and it has not returned. Side note, if you replace the pump you should replace your fuel pressure regulator located on your fuel rail, pressure should be 52-67 PSI and your inline filter. Sorry for being windy, but spent a lot of time on the internet piecing this together, hope someone gets some good out of the many collective opinions assembled here. And remember don't be a fool like me and overlook the simple things first.

tata1167

Everyone out there that is having the same problem PLEASE read this before you go spend $300. on a fuel pump... I usually google everything when it comes fixing something, but this time i didnt and it cost me over $350.00. If your chevy is stalling when put into drive or reverse with very low idle go to utube and check out the video(2003 chevy silverado cleaning your throttle body). It only cost me $3.99 at autozone.. Kick me now.. Cause my truck runs great..