2001 Silverado P0332 knock sensor problem - Page 2 - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

2001 Silverado P0332 knock sensor problem


  Reply  
tinbender59's Avatar
CF Active Member

Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 187

October 6th, 2010, 7:50 PM   #11  
Posted By: Jay340hp Hey all, been having some problems with my truck the last few weeks. Got a code P0332 2 weeks ago for bank2 knock sensor. I found some tsb's relating to it, they mentioned water getting into the intake valley and that you should replace the sensor. I pulled the intake and sure enough the valley that holds the bank2 (rear) knock sensor was full of water. I replaced it siliconed both caps in place also changed all related gaskets..Since then the code comes back every 2 key cycles and I can't get rid of it. I have checked for vacum leaks(smoked the intake), ohmed the harness and changed the oil. I only have 55,000 on the motor and there are no major engine noises. Not sure if anyone has ever heard of this?? Today I pulled the connector on the pcm and checked the connectin all is good..Any sugestions would be appreciated.
any luck?

 
cooter26's Avatar
CF Junior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 75

October 6th, 2010, 10:03 PM   #12  
I had the same problem, when i tested them for resistance after replacing both they were good, then i found an other test that you beat on the block with the engine off to simulate a knock and see if the sensors are working, the back showd a good range and the front did not. So i bought a brand new bad sensor apparently. When i replace it this time i will do both test on the sensors before i put the intake back on.

 
slammed02chevy's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Texas

October 31st, 2011, 1:51 PM   #13  
Does anyone in this thread have more details about diagnosing this problem? Like specifically resistance readings and voltage readings at key places. I have pulled my intake manifold 3 times trying to correct my original P0332 error. I originally replaced just the rear, then re-pulled it after I was still getting the code and replaced the front and the wiring harness. I'm now getting both the P0332 code and the P0327 code. With much frustration, I attempted to trick the system by using the old wiring harness clip and two 100 ohm resistors in line to a ground on the fire wall. This gave me the 100 ohm resistance needed for spec from what I seemed to find online. It didn't work. The thing I didn't think about though was that in order to ACTUALLY trick the system, it would also need to provide some sort of voltage feedback? Is that correct or does it ONLY provide voltage back to the PCM when it detects a ping?

I'm trying to avoid pulling this thing AGAIN to only have it not work. I would like to diagnose the problem as best as possible before doing any heavy work. I hear it can also be a bad PCM, but no one really says how to test this aspect? I'm not even sure I have all the right tools for the job to do it myself, but if I could have some sort of certainty I would feel better taking it to a mechanic if I have to. I'm picturing taking it to a mechanic now who will charge me to do the Knock Sensor replacements and maybe even another new wiring harness only to discover it's still not working, Then charge me to replace the PCM... then hoping that works.

As mentioned I've replaced both Knock Sensors (I didn't have a torque wrench when I did it so I just snugged them down hand tight too...) and the wiring harness. When I pull the clips apart and OHM the wiring running to the Knock sensors I'm getting 1 reading OL (open sensor) and the other is right about 100 as would appear to be correct. The weird thing though is that I am still getting BOTH knock sensor faults showing in my Service Engine readings.

My truck actually runs completely fine too. Gas mileage is normal (which of course is still bad at a wopping 17 mpg's... then again I have 22 inch rims on my truck too). I do have an occasional sound coming from the engine under load. It seems to occur more after it's warmed up and when I'm in a high gear and accelerating. If the engine downshifts the knocking doesn't occur... only during heavy gas and high gears. I'm not even certain it's actual engine knock because it only does it when I drive. I can't re-produce it sitting still revving and it really does sound quite light and "ticky" if you catch what I mean. It's almost a fast ticking sound. Oh and it doesn't appear to speed up in the number of ticks as vehicle speed increases, but then again I suppose engine RPM's aren't changing rapidly either considering it won't do it if I give it enough gas to downshift.

Anyway I'm desperate here for some sort of answer on this thing that would be more solid. Is torquing super important? Do you think I was having grounding issues with the KS themselves when I tightened them? Is it likely these things are/were bad already? What can I do to make certain before pulling everything apart again that the problem does in fact lie with the KS? Anyway have an idea what voltage readout should be when the truck is running?

 
slammed02chevy's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Texas

October 31st, 2011, 1:53 PM   #14  
Posted By: cooter26 I had the same problem, when i tested them for resistance after replacing both they were good, then i found an other test that you beat on the block with the engine off to simulate a knock and see if the sensors are working, the back showd a good range and the front did not. So i bought a brand new bad sensor apparently. When i replace it this time i will do both test on the sensors before i put the intake back on.

What was that range you tested on them? I would like to test this as well...

 
cooter26's Avatar
CF Junior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 75

November 2nd, 2011, 3:10 AM   #15  
Testing

Knock Sensor<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

Disconnect knock sensor harness connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure knock sensor resistance between sensor terminal and engine block. Resistance should be 3300-4500 ohms. Connect DVOM between sensor terminal and ground. Set voltmeter to 2-volt AC scale. Start and idle engine. Tap on engine block near sensor. A signal should be indicated on voltmeter. If no signal is indicated, replace knock sensor.

 
rodski736's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1

April 2nd, 2013, 8:52 PM   #16  
Im haveing the same problem with my 2000 gmc 1500 5.3L pluged it in to scan and said about 4 cat codes cuz i have not cats the guy i got it from did that and its saying knock sensor bank 1 low volts and miss fire so i checked for power at plug it said 0.03 on bolth and aright around the same when i tested the knock sensors buy tapin on the alt bracket it seems to have a ruff idle like its camd a bit no problems with take off seems like good respose and also when i fire it up once and a while it will frie up and die then start it a gen and almost dies but then seems to pick up idle theres 145.000 on truck

 
Tags
Search this Thread
Sponsors
Related Topics