adjust compressor clutch air gap the easy way
May 16th, 2013, 5:34 PM
#1
adjust compressor clutch air gap the easy way
My compressor was switching off in hot weather and after running for a while. I checked the air gap and it was about .045" while spec is 0.020 - 0.030.
So how do you change the air gap on your Denso 10s17 compressor without any special tools? (2000 Chevy 1500 4.8)
First of all, remove the air box so you can see the compressor easily.
Use a 10mm socket on the center bolt on the clutch. It unscrews anti-clockwise ie it's a regular threaded bolt.
Now for the trick - engage the compressor clutch so that the clutch doesn't spin when you try to loosen the bolt. To engage the clutch without starting the engine, supply 12v to the terminal labeled 87 on the compressor relay.
This relay is in the fusebox in the engine bay. See the picture attached. The green wire is in the 87 connector (bottom left of the 4 relay connections) and is running to the positive terminal of the battery. I have removed the compressor relay in the picture and laid it on top of another relay so you can see it. The relay pulls out, but may need a little wiggling and encouragement if it has been sitting there for 13 years like mine has.
My clutch was so weak that I had to push it inwards by hand to get it to engage. Once engaged, a quick pull on the socket wrench loosened the bolt. When the bolt is out, disconnect the green wire so you don't have the clutch burn out. I don't know if it would burn out, but no sense leaving it engaged longer than you have to. Also, you need to disengage it to pull the clutch off.
See this post below for more info on this technique and how to change the air gap by removing shims. It's easy to figure out once you get the clutch bolt out.
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap
Good luck.
So how do you change the air gap on your Denso 10s17 compressor without any special tools? (2000 Chevy 1500 4.8)
First of all, remove the air box so you can see the compressor easily.
Use a 10mm socket on the center bolt on the clutch. It unscrews anti-clockwise ie it's a regular threaded bolt.
Now for the trick - engage the compressor clutch so that the clutch doesn't spin when you try to loosen the bolt. To engage the clutch without starting the engine, supply 12v to the terminal labeled 87 on the compressor relay.
This relay is in the fusebox in the engine bay. See the picture attached. The green wire is in the 87 connector (bottom left of the 4 relay connections) and is running to the positive terminal of the battery. I have removed the compressor relay in the picture and laid it on top of another relay so you can see it. The relay pulls out, but may need a little wiggling and encouragement if it has been sitting there for 13 years like mine has.
My clutch was so weak that I had to push it inwards by hand to get it to engage. Once engaged, a quick pull on the socket wrench loosened the bolt. When the bolt is out, disconnect the green wire so you don't have the clutch burn out. I don't know if it would burn out, but no sense leaving it engaged longer than you have to. Also, you need to disengage it to pull the clutch off.
See this post below for more info on this technique and how to change the air gap by removing shims. It's easy to figure out once you get the clutch bolt out.
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap
Good luck.
January 6th, 2020, 4:42 PM
#3
CF Beginner
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My compressor was switching off in hot weather and after running for a while. I checked the air gap and it was about .045" while spec is 0.020 - 0.030.
So how do you change the air gap on your Denso 10s17 compressor without any special tools? (2000 Chevy 1500 4.8)
First of all, remove the air box so you can see the compressor easily.
Use a 10mm socket on the center bolt on the clutch. It unscrews anti-clockwise ie it's a regular threaded bolt.
Now for the trick - engage the compressor clutch so that the clutch doesn't spin when you try to loosen the bolt. To engage the clutch without starting the engine, supply 12v to the terminal labeled 87 on the compressor relay.
This relay is in the fusebox in the engine bay. See the picture attached. The green wire is in the 87 connector (bottom left of the 4 relay connections) and is running to the positive terminal of the battery. I have removed the compressor relay in the picture and laid it on top of another relay so you can see it. The relay pulls out, but may need a little wiggling and encouragement if it has been sitting there for 13 years like mine has.
My clutch was so weak that I had to push it inwards by hand to get it to engage. Once engaged, a quick pull on the socket wrench loosened the bolt. When the bolt is out, disconnect the green wire so you don't have the clutch burn out. I don't know if it would burn out, but no sense leaving it engaged longer than you have to. Also, you need to disengage it to pull the clutch off.
See this post below for more info on this technique and how to change the air gap by removing shims. It's easy to figure out once you get the clutch bolt out.
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap
Good luck.
So how do you change the air gap on your Denso 10s17 compressor without any special tools? (2000 Chevy 1500 4.8)
First of all, remove the air box so you can see the compressor easily.
Use a 10mm socket on the center bolt on the clutch. It unscrews anti-clockwise ie it's a regular threaded bolt.
Now for the trick - engage the compressor clutch so that the clutch doesn't spin when you try to loosen the bolt. To engage the clutch without starting the engine, supply 12v to the terminal labeled 87 on the compressor relay.
This relay is in the fusebox in the engine bay. See the picture attached. The green wire is in the 87 connector (bottom left of the 4 relay connections) and is running to the positive terminal of the battery. I have removed the compressor relay in the picture and laid it on top of another relay so you can see it. The relay pulls out, but may need a little wiggling and encouragement if it has been sitting there for 13 years like mine has.
My clutch was so weak that I had to push it inwards by hand to get it to engage. Once engaged, a quick pull on the socket wrench loosened the bolt. When the bolt is out, disconnect the green wire so you don't have the clutch burn out. I don't know if it would burn out, but no sense leaving it engaged longer than you have to. Also, you need to disengage it to pull the clutch off.
See this post below for more info on this technique and how to change the air gap by removing shims. It's easy to figure out once you get the clutch bolt out.
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap
Good luck.
January 7th, 2020, 12:23 AM
#4
CF Monarch
You should probably make your own thread
Nevertheless, You'll have to get the center bolt out first, then the ring clip. Me, I don't have time to space/gauge it. I'd just put a new one in. At least you don't have to have the R-134A vacuumed out into a recycling machine, and charge the system. Might as well put a new compressor in after that.
Nevertheless, You'll have to get the center bolt out first, then the ring clip. Me, I don't have time to space/gauge it. I'd just put a new one in. At least you don't have to have the R-134A vacuumed out into a recycling machine, and charge the system. Might as well put a new compressor in after that.
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