Best Way To Hook Up Camper Shell Brake Lights On '07 silverado NBS - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

Best Way To Hook Up Camper Shell Brake Lights On '07 silverado NBS


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  #1  
Old  April 17th, 2011, 10:27 AM
  • CF Active Member
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    Chapel Hill NC
Best Way To Hook Up Camper Shell Brake Lights On '07 silverado NBS

I have to hook up the brake light on the camper shell but the brake lights on the truck all are stop/turn even the ones on the trailer wiring, so I think I can bring a wire from the truck's third brake light all the way to the camper brake light
this is what I'm trying to do: I want to tap a wire from the MBEC x9 pin 3 which is "Stop Lamp Supply Voltage signal" and bring it to the back of the truck to the camper shell brake light, I tested and this one doesn't blink with the blinkers but lights with the brake pedal

but I don't know if this is the right way to do it, I have been scratching my head trying to find an easy way to do this
any help is greatly appreciated guys!!! thanks <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

  #2  
Old  April 22nd, 2011, 3:03 AM
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update: I was told that there's a taped off wire just behind the trailer plug that is there for that specific purpose, but the other end is not plugged in yet and it is in between the steering wheel column and the park brake!!! so I think that is the one that I need to plug in that x9 pin 3 in the junction box, I will look into it this weekend and tell you the results since I have been busy all this week.


Last edited by QUETRANPA; April 22nd, 2011 at 5:15 PM.
  #3  
Old  April 24th, 2011, 1:10 PM
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You are correct. Look under the dash left of the steering wheel you will see a small bundle of wires taped together. These are the electric brake control wires and the CHMSL(center high mounted stop lamp). The wire you seek is orange. This is the main purpose of this wire. All of these wires will be deadended, and depending on the year may look like a child taped them up. The 2010-c trucks are better taped and are a little harder to find but are still there.

After running your wire from the campertop into the cabin connect both wires together with a fuse. This is a sure fire way to make sure everything is protected. We always connect our wire at this point with a 3m wireless fuse holder and put a 5amp fuse in the holder. We have been doing this for over 20 years and the 5amp has never failed us on current on any CHMSL. Most current draw on a campershell light is 2amp if they are regular bulbs and less than 1amp if its LED. Any questions ask......

  #4  
Old  April 24th, 2011, 2:25 PM
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Thanks "E"
so let me get this straight I take the wire from the campertop stop light (which already has a fuse) and bring it in to the cab and tap that in the orange wire? is that it? I have a test light and a multimeter so I will be testing

by the way I found a taped wire near the 7 pin trailer plug and I was told that that is the one I'm looking for, is that true or just go for the orange inside the cab (which I already found by the way) I will post pics of the wires I have found if necessary
my truck is a '07 SILVERADO LT1 NBS with the towing package from factory but no trailer brake controller.


Last edited by QUETRANPA; April 24th, 2011 at 5:18 PM.
  #5  
Old  April 24th, 2011, 5:16 PM
  • CF Senior Member
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There is no CHMSL wire in the back of the truck on the 07-c GM's. GM was kind enough to delete this on the NBS in the rear leaving us to run all the way to the front.

Even though there is a fuse at the camper, its always good practice to fuse at the connection point to eliminate any possible shorts along the way. This makes everything you did stop at the connection point. If the campertops brakelamp itself shorts, than the fuse at the campertop should pop stopping the short. But it will leave the line energized from the shell fuse to the dash. Now if the line itself starts rubbing the frame, the fuse at the campertop will probably never pop and even if it does, the line going to the front is still live, and your solely relying on the factory fuse to handle the short. If the factory fuse is too large (i.e.10-15amp to handle the taillights and 3rd brakelight) you take the chance of the wiring burning up the wire until the current pops the fuse. It might stop it or it might burn it all the way inside the dash. We seen it happen!!! With the 5amp fuse in line between the campertop wire and the factory wire, that 5amp fuse will pop at the first sight of a fault leaving your factory wire unharmed.

If you could take a picture of the wire at the 7Way. Is it Lt/Blue?

  #6  
Old  April 30th, 2011, 10:16 AM
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ok "E" here are the pics of the wires I found so far, I haven't tested yet since I have been busy at work, see if you can figure out the wire in the same bundle that goes to the 7 pin trailer wiring "thank you in advance"

<a href="http://s666.photobucket.com/albums/vv26/QUETRANPA/?action=view&amp;current=IMGA0009-5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv26/QUETRANPA/IMGA0009-5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s666.photobucket.com/albums/vv26/QUETRANPA/?action=view&amp;current=IMGA0012-3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv26/QUETRANPA/IMGA0012-3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

  #7  
Old  August 31st, 2011, 9:45 AM
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That is the CAN bus terminator. You need to put it back or you will lose communication with the ABS module.

  #8  
Old  September 1st, 2011, 7:35 PM
  • CF Active Member
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Thanks I taped it back already the way it was
By the way I already hooked up my brake light on the camper top, the way I did it is I run a wire from the topper all the way inside the cab and tap it on the Orange wire like E suggested but the only thing is I didn't add a fuse to it since it already has one at the fuse block by the driver's door.
But I really want to know how the upfitters do it though


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