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Check engine light is on.
September 14th, 2008, 9:55 PM
#1
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Check engine light is on.
I have a 2006 Silverado and my check engine light is on. I called the dealer they want $75 to read the code. I brought the truck down to my local auto zone store and they checked it for free. Here is what I got...
Code PO446
Definition -EVAP purge/vent solenoid circuit condition.
Explanation - The solenoids and system wiring are monitored for opens or shorts.
Probable Causes
1- Purge or vent solenoids defective
2- Check connector and wiring
3- Fuel saturated vapor canistar
4- Failed EVAP vent solenoid
Now at Auto Zoan they told me it was probably bad gas, so I ran some fuil ingector cleaner, dry gas, and filled the tank two times with 93. Then I went back to Auto Zoan and cleared the light and it comes right back on.
Can anyone offer me any info about this?? Thanks[sm=feedback.gif]
Code PO446
Definition -EVAP purge/vent solenoid circuit condition.
Explanation - The solenoids and system wiring are monitored for opens or shorts.
Probable Causes
1- Purge or vent solenoids defective
2- Check connector and wiring
3- Fuel saturated vapor canistar
4- Failed EVAP vent solenoid
Now at Auto Zoan they told me it was probably bad gas, so I ran some fuil ingector cleaner, dry gas, and filled the tank two times with 93. Then I went back to Auto Zoan and cleared the light and it comes right back on.
Can anyone offer me any info about this?? Thanks[sm=feedback.gif]
September 14th, 2008, 10:07 PM
#2
RE: Check engine light is on.
Obviously go for the simplest thing first. Check to be certain all your sensor wiring is tight.
Next, the evap canister fills when you try to fill your tank too much. A tipoff is the smell of gas in the passenger compartment shortly after you fill your gas tank. Do you try to round your fill-up to the nearest dollar? check the evap canister, if it's saturated, you'll know.
Then, it's down to making educated guesses and changing a couple of sensors, unless you want to pay a mechanic or dealer to test them or run a diagnostic.
Next, the evap canister fills when you try to fill your tank too much. A tipoff is the smell of gas in the passenger compartment shortly after you fill your gas tank. Do you try to round your fill-up to the nearest dollar? check the evap canister, if it's saturated, you'll know.
Then, it's down to making educated guesses and changing a couple of sensors, unless you want to pay a mechanic or dealer to test them or run a diagnostic.
September 15th, 2008, 12:45 AM
#4
RE: Check engine light is on.
PO446-reads :"Evaporative Emission(EVAP) vent system performance" in my (14$ worth it's weight in gold) haynes repair manual.
Assuming, of course that your gas cap was installed tightly after your last fill-up(DOH!) The actual canister is bolted up next to the fuel tank on most models.(4.8 being typical) The EVAP purge valve is at the front left of the engine next to the plastic VORTEC manifold cover- from the looks of it, on the left side of the end of the cold air intake. The purge solenoid is mounted under that plastic manifold cover.
At this point it would be a good idea to get that manual, and check it out. When you fix the problem, if your truck doesn't clear that code automatically after a couple of key cycles, you can always go back to your buddies at Auto Zone. Be sure to give them your business on a regular basis, it sounds like they've earned it.
Assuming, of course that your gas cap was installed tightly after your last fill-up(DOH!) The actual canister is bolted up next to the fuel tank on most models.(4.8 being typical) The EVAP purge valve is at the front left of the engine next to the plastic VORTEC manifold cover- from the looks of it, on the left side of the end of the cold air intake. The purge solenoid is mounted under that plastic manifold cover.
At this point it would be a good idea to get that manual, and check it out. When you fix the problem, if your truck doesn't clear that code automatically after a couple of key cycles, you can always go back to your buddies at Auto Zone. Be sure to give them your business on a regular basis, it sounds like they've earned it.
September 15th, 2008, 8:07 AM
#5
RE: Check engine light is on.
Hi chris
Here is bulletin for your DTC P0446
[hr]
[/align]
#02-06-04-037D: DTC P0446 (Restricted/Blocked Evap Vent Path) Set, Check Engine Light On (Replace Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Valve Solenoid Assembly and Add/Relocate Filter Box Using Service Kit) - (Apr 16, 2008) [/align]
[align=left]
[align=left]
Subject:
DTC P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) Set, Check Engine Light On (Replace Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Valve Solenoid Assembly and Add/Relocate Filter Box Using Service Kit)[/align][align=left]
Models:
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic) Models[/align][align=left]
1999-2007 GMC Sierra (Classic) Models[/align][align=left]
2007-2008 Chevrolet Silverado Models[/align][align=left]
2007-2008 GMC Sierra Models[/align]
[hr]
This bulletin is being revised to add new style pickups to the models and update the correction information to include a new location for the filter box. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-037C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
[hr]
Condition
Some customers whose vehicles are operated in dusty type environments, such as farming or mining off-road type applications, may comment about the illumination of the check engine light, with a DTC of P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) being set.
Cause
Dirt and dust intrusion into the EVAP canister vent hose assembly, resulting in restricted air flow, may cause this condition.
Correction (1999-2007 Classic/Old Style Models)
After following the published SI diagnostics for P0446 and determining that the EVAP canister vent valve is the cause of the MIL light, replace the existing EVAP canister vent valve assembly with a new assembly. This new assembly is a sealed unit that is designed to be vented through a remote filter box. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedures below.
[ol][/ol]
1999-2003 Model Year (Use Service Kit P/N19152345)
[ol]Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector, if equipped.
Disengage the two vent valve pipe clips securing the pipe to the underbody. Remove the clips from the underbody and discard.
Disconnect the vent valve pipe at the EVAP canister.
Remove and retain the EVAP canister vent valve bracket mounting bolt.
Remove the complete EVAP canister vent valve assembly with bracket attached and discard.
Important:The new canister vent valve will be installed in a new location, outside of the frame.
Position and secure the new valve assembly to the frame bracket on the outside of the frame using the existing hole and mounting bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bracket mounting bolt to 12N·m (106lbin).
Connect the vent valve pipe to the EVAP canister.
Install the two vent valve pipe clips into the existing underbody holes.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector, if equipped.
Attach bulk 5/8" heater hose to the vent valve port and secure using a clamp. Run a length as needed along the frame rail routing to the area above the transmission.
Cut the hose to determined length and install the supplied filter box. Secure using a clamp.
Remove the transmission support and lower the transmission assembly as necessary to allow for access to the new filter box location.
Secure the filter box to the transmission vent hose just forward of the hose tee-section using a tie strap. DO NOT pinch or restrict the transmission vent hose. The filter box opening should be pointing downward.
Raise the transmission and reinstall the transmission support.
Tie strap the hose as needed along the frame rail in order to keep the hose away from pinch-points and heat sources.
Lower the vehicle. [/ol]
[ol][/ol]
2004-2007 Model Year (Use Service Kit P/N19152349)
[ol]Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Disconnect the canister pipe from the vent valve.
Push in the retainer and remove the existing canister vent valve from the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket. Discard the old valve.
Cut back the existing canister pipe approximately 51mm (2in) to remove the quick connect end.
Crew Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
Extended Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
Install the new canister vent valve to the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket.
Cut bulk 5/8" heater hose to a length of approximately 76mm (3in). Install the hose between the vent valve and the canister pipe and secure using clamps.
Attach bulk 5/8" heater hose to the vent valve port and secure using a clamp. Run a length as needed along the frame rail routing to the area above the transmission.
Cut the hose to determined length and install the supplied filter box. Secure using a clamp.
Remove the transmission support and lower the transmission assembly as necessary to allow for access to the new filter box location.
Secure the filter box to the transmission vent hose just forward of the hose tee-section using a tie strap. DO NOT pinch or restrict the transmission vent hose. The filter box opening should be pointing downward.
Raise the transmission and reinstall the transmission support.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Tie strap the hose as needed along the frame rail in order to keep the hose away from pinch-points and heat sources.
Lower the vehicle. [/ol]
Correction (2007-2008 New Style Models)
After following the published SI diagnostics for P0446 and determining that the EVAP canister vent valve is the cause of the MIL light, replace the EVAP canister vent valve assembly and relocate the remote filter box. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedures below.
[ol][/ol]
Use Service Kit P/N19152349
[ol]Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Disconnect the vent valve pipe quick connect from the canister.
Either cut the existing valve vent pipe and leave the remaining section of pipe in the vehicle or remove along with the valve.
Push in the retainer and remove the existing canister vent valve from the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket.
Cut back the existing canister pipe approximately 51mm (2in) and retain the pipe for use with new valve.
Connect the canister pipe quick connect to the canister.
2500 Crew Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
1500 Extended Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
Install the new canister vent valve to the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket.
Cut bulk 5/8" heater hose to a length of approximately 76mm (3in). Install the hose between the vent valve and the canister pipe and secure using clamps.
Attach bulk 5/8" heater hose to the vent valve port and secure using a clamp. Run a length as needed along the frame rail routing to the passenger side area above the transmission.
Cut the hose to determined length and install the supplied filter box. Secure using a clamp.
Remove the transmission heat shield, if necessary.
Remove the transmission support and lower the transmission assembly as necessary to allow for access to the new filter box location.
Secure the filter box to the transmission vent hose just forward of the hose tee-section using a tie strap. DO NOT pinch or restrict the transmission vent hose. The filter box opening should be pointing downward.
Raise the transmission and reinstall the transmission support.
Reinstall the transmission heat shield.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Tie strap the hose as needed along the frame rail in order to keep the hose away from pinch-points and heat sources.
Lower the vehicle. [/ol]
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
Material Allowance
19152345 (1999-2003 Model Year)
Solenoid Kit, EVAP Emission Canister Vent Valve
1
19152349 (2004-2008 Model Year)
Solenoid Kit, EVAP Emission Canister Vent Valve
1
9438383 (5/8" X 25' roll)
Hose
Cut to Length
$10.80 USD ($22.59 CAD)
12337820 (10 per pack)
Tie-Strap
5
$3.80 USD ($4.55 CAD)
15620999 (10 per pack)
Clamp
2 (1999-2003)
or
4 (2004-2008)
$3.78 USD ($7.08 CAD) (1999-2003)
or
$7.56 USD ($14.17 CAD) (2004-2008)
Put unused material on shelf for future use.
Hope this helps you.when you finish let us know,what was wrong.[/align][/align]
Here is bulletin for your DTC P0446
[hr]
[/align]
#02-06-04-037D: DTC P0446 (Restricted/Blocked Evap Vent Path) Set, Check Engine Light On (Replace Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Valve Solenoid Assembly and Add/Relocate Filter Box Using Service Kit) - (Apr 16, 2008) [/align]
[align=left]
[align=left]Subject:
DTC P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) Set, Check Engine Light On (Replace Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Valve Solenoid Assembly and Add/Relocate Filter Box Using Service Kit)[/align][align=left]
Models:
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic) Models[/align][align=left]
1999-2007 GMC Sierra (Classic) Models[/align][align=left]
2007-2008 Chevrolet Silverado Models[/align][align=left]
2007-2008 GMC Sierra Models[/align]
[hr]
This bulletin is being revised to add new style pickups to the models and update the correction information to include a new location for the filter box. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-037C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
[hr]
Condition
Some customers whose vehicles are operated in dusty type environments, such as farming or mining off-road type applications, may comment about the illumination of the check engine light, with a DTC of P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) being set.
Cause
Dirt and dust intrusion into the EVAP canister vent hose assembly, resulting in restricted air flow, may cause this condition.
Correction (1999-2007 Classic/Old Style Models)
After following the published SI diagnostics for P0446 and determining that the EVAP canister vent valve is the cause of the MIL light, replace the existing EVAP canister vent valve assembly with a new assembly. This new assembly is a sealed unit that is designed to be vented through a remote filter box. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedures below.
[ol][/ol]
1999-2003 Model Year (Use Service Kit P/N19152345)
[ol]Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector, if equipped.
Disengage the two vent valve pipe clips securing the pipe to the underbody. Remove the clips from the underbody and discard.
Disconnect the vent valve pipe at the EVAP canister.
Remove and retain the EVAP canister vent valve bracket mounting bolt.
Remove the complete EVAP canister vent valve assembly with bracket attached and discard.
Important:The new canister vent valve will be installed in a new location, outside of the frame.
Position and secure the new valve assembly to the frame bracket on the outside of the frame using the existing hole and mounting bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bracket mounting bolt to 12N·m (106lbin).
Connect the vent valve pipe to the EVAP canister.
Install the two vent valve pipe clips into the existing underbody holes.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector, if equipped.
Attach bulk 5/8" heater hose to the vent valve port and secure using a clamp. Run a length as needed along the frame rail routing to the area above the transmission.
Cut the hose to determined length and install the supplied filter box. Secure using a clamp.
Remove the transmission support and lower the transmission assembly as necessary to allow for access to the new filter box location.
Secure the filter box to the transmission vent hose just forward of the hose tee-section using a tie strap. DO NOT pinch or restrict the transmission vent hose. The filter box opening should be pointing downward.
Raise the transmission and reinstall the transmission support.
Tie strap the hose as needed along the frame rail in order to keep the hose away from pinch-points and heat sources.
Lower the vehicle. [/ol]
[ol][/ol]
2004-2007 Model Year (Use Service Kit P/N19152349)
[ol]Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Disconnect the canister pipe from the vent valve.
Push in the retainer and remove the existing canister vent valve from the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket. Discard the old valve.
Cut back the existing canister pipe approximately 51mm (2in) to remove the quick connect end.
Crew Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
Extended Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
Install the new canister vent valve to the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket.
Cut bulk 5/8" heater hose to a length of approximately 76mm (3in). Install the hose between the vent valve and the canister pipe and secure using clamps.
Attach bulk 5/8" heater hose to the vent valve port and secure using a clamp. Run a length as needed along the frame rail routing to the area above the transmission.
Cut the hose to determined length and install the supplied filter box. Secure using a clamp.
Remove the transmission support and lower the transmission assembly as necessary to allow for access to the new filter box location.
Secure the filter box to the transmission vent hose just forward of the hose tee-section using a tie strap. DO NOT pinch or restrict the transmission vent hose. The filter box opening should be pointing downward.
Raise the transmission and reinstall the transmission support.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Tie strap the hose as needed along the frame rail in order to keep the hose away from pinch-points and heat sources.
Lower the vehicle. [/ol]
Correction (2007-2008 New Style Models)
After following the published SI diagnostics for P0446 and determining that the EVAP canister vent valve is the cause of the MIL light, replace the EVAP canister vent valve assembly and relocate the remote filter box. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedures below.
[ol][/ol]
Use Service Kit P/N19152349
[ol]Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Disconnect the vent valve pipe quick connect from the canister.
Either cut the existing valve vent pipe and leave the remaining section of pipe in the vehicle or remove along with the valve.
Push in the retainer and remove the existing canister vent valve from the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket.
Cut back the existing canister pipe approximately 51mm (2in) and retain the pipe for use with new valve.
Connect the canister pipe quick connect to the canister.
2500 Crew Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
1500 Extended Cab Short Box Shown Below, Other Configurations Similar
Install the new canister vent valve to the fuel tank clip or mounting bracket.
Cut bulk 5/8" heater hose to a length of approximately 76mm (3in). Install the hose between the vent valve and the canister pipe and secure using clamps.
Attach bulk 5/8" heater hose to the vent valve port and secure using a clamp. Run a length as needed along the frame rail routing to the passenger side area above the transmission.
Cut the hose to determined length and install the supplied filter box. Secure using a clamp.
Remove the transmission heat shield, if necessary.
Remove the transmission support and lower the transmission assembly as necessary to allow for access to the new filter box location.
Secure the filter box to the transmission vent hose just forward of the hose tee-section using a tie strap. DO NOT pinch or restrict the transmission vent hose. The filter box opening should be pointing downward.
Raise the transmission and reinstall the transmission support.
Reinstall the transmission heat shield.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Tie strap the hose as needed along the frame rail in order to keep the hose away from pinch-points and heat sources.
Lower the vehicle. [/ol]
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
Material Allowance
19152345 (1999-2003 Model Year)
Solenoid Kit, EVAP Emission Canister Vent Valve
1
19152349 (2004-2008 Model Year)
Solenoid Kit, EVAP Emission Canister Vent Valve
1
9438383 (5/8" X 25' roll)
Hose
Cut to Length
$10.80 USD ($22.59 CAD)
12337820 (10 per pack)
Tie-Strap
5
$3.80 USD ($4.55 CAD)
15620999 (10 per pack)
Clamp
2 (1999-2003)
or
4 (2004-2008)
$3.78 USD ($7.08 CAD) (1999-2003)
or
$7.56 USD ($14.17 CAD) (2004-2008)
Put unused material on shelf for future use.
Hope this helps you.when you finish let us know,what was wrong.[/align][/align]
September 19th, 2008, 8:27 AM
#6
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
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0 Posts
RE: Check engine light is on.
Hey guys I got my truck fixed. I ended up going out to auto zone and purchased that haynes manual. Looking at the evap section and figured the problem could have been only one of 4 things, that where major which all the parts are very exspensive and only dealer items.
1. Evap Canister 189.00
2. Purge Valve 44.61
3. Vent Valve 153.72
4. Fuel tank pressure sensor 198.92
So as you can see if I play the guessing game I could end up spending up to 5 or 6 hundered dollars. I just don't have it right now so I called the dealer and they said that the diognostic cost was 79.00, if I have them do the work they wave that charge. If it was any one of those things it would run me roughly around 250.00, soeven if I had them tell me what was wrong it will cost 80.00 the part costs 200 they had me the price was going to be about the same if I did the work and I don't even know what I am doing!!
Jackyshaikh the detail you put up was right it was the vent valve selinoid which the part was 153.00 so I prob would have saved a little money, but going into it with out knowing I just couldn't do it. The dealer ended up charging me 320.00 out the door, not happy but what you going to do. The thing is they know this part is in the wrong location because they make you relocate it someone else was in the dealer for the same thing and they told both of us about the problem at the same time, moisture build up in the in the valve. His was still coverd and for some reason they said his wasn't bad enogh to move to the new location. I told him its because his is still coverd and he should tell them to move it anyways. I hurd stories about dealers like that but didn't beleave them I guess its true that would have been more work for them later on. He asked them if they moved it before he leftand they ended up moveing it but would they have if both of us wheren't there at the same time????
Im not so sure I'm very happy with my chevy purchase, don't get me wrong I love the truck but this is like the fourth little problem on a truck with only 56,000 miles, and of course it happens right after the warranty is up. Did anyone else have any other problems with there new truck purchase?
I had problems with the heater cluster lights not working not just a bulb you have to replace a 250.00 heast cluster, 2 buttons on the steering wheel lights went out, buttons on the radio went out, tires wore uneven won't do anything about that unless you have proof of all tire rotations, I have moisture in one of my tail lights and never hit anything,one tailight was hanging out of the body of the truck at one time never hit anything, Rubber gasket in the door was just hanging had to be fixed,and of corsethis problem.
Some of this was coverd underthe warranty, butonly about 90% the rest happened within 6000 miles after the warranty so now I have about 1200 dollars into my brand new truck that you buyso you don't have any problems. And lets face it who wants to drive around a new truck with the check engine light on or lights in the dash out?
Thanks for everyones help and hopefullyany info I added helps someone else. If anyone has any little problems with there new truckjust after the warranty share them, I'm wondering if it's just me!!!!
1. Evap Canister 189.00
2. Purge Valve 44.61
3. Vent Valve 153.72
4. Fuel tank pressure sensor 198.92
So as you can see if I play the guessing game I could end up spending up to 5 or 6 hundered dollars. I just don't have it right now so I called the dealer and they said that the diognostic cost was 79.00, if I have them do the work they wave that charge. If it was any one of those things it would run me roughly around 250.00, soeven if I had them tell me what was wrong it will cost 80.00 the part costs 200 they had me the price was going to be about the same if I did the work and I don't even know what I am doing!!
Jackyshaikh the detail you put up was right it was the vent valve selinoid which the part was 153.00 so I prob would have saved a little money, but going into it with out knowing I just couldn't do it. The dealer ended up charging me 320.00 out the door, not happy but what you going to do. The thing is they know this part is in the wrong location because they make you relocate it someone else was in the dealer for the same thing and they told both of us about the problem at the same time, moisture build up in the in the valve. His was still coverd and for some reason they said his wasn't bad enogh to move to the new location. I told him its because his is still coverd and he should tell them to move it anyways. I hurd stories about dealers like that but didn't beleave them I guess its true that would have been more work for them later on. He asked them if they moved it before he leftand they ended up moveing it but would they have if both of us wheren't there at the same time????
Im not so sure I'm very happy with my chevy purchase, don't get me wrong I love the truck but this is like the fourth little problem on a truck with only 56,000 miles, and of course it happens right after the warranty is up. Did anyone else have any other problems with there new truck purchase?
I had problems with the heater cluster lights not working not just a bulb you have to replace a 250.00 heast cluster, 2 buttons on the steering wheel lights went out, buttons on the radio went out, tires wore uneven won't do anything about that unless you have proof of all tire rotations, I have moisture in one of my tail lights and never hit anything,one tailight was hanging out of the body of the truck at one time never hit anything, Rubber gasket in the door was just hanging had to be fixed,and of corsethis problem.
Some of this was coverd underthe warranty, butonly about 90% the rest happened within 6000 miles after the warranty so now I have about 1200 dollars into my brand new truck that you buyso you don't have any problems. And lets face it who wants to drive around a new truck with the check engine light on or lights in the dash out?
Thanks for everyones help and hopefullyany info I added helps someone else. If anyone has any little problems with there new truckjust after the warranty share them, I'm wondering if it's just me!!!!
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July 29th, 2012, 10:10 AM
#8
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Evap Vent valve
Hey guys I got my truck fixed. I ended up going out to auto zone and purchased that haynes manual. Looking at the evap section and figured the problem could have been only one of 4 things, that where major which all the parts are very exspensive and only dealer items.
1. Evap Canister 189.00
2. Purge Valve 44.61
3. Vent Valve 153.72
4. Fuel tank pressure sensor 198.92
So as you can see if I play the guessing game I could end up spending up to 5 or 6 hundered dollars. I just don't have it right now so I called the dealer and they said that the diognostic cost was 79.00, if I have them do the work they wave that charge. If it was any one of those things it would run me roughly around 250.00, soeven if I had them tell me what was wrong it will cost 80.00 the part costs 200 they had me the price was going to be about the same if I did the work and I don't even know what I am doing!!
Jackyshaikh the detail you put up was right it was the vent valve selinoid which the part was 153.00 so I prob would have saved a little money, but going into it with out knowing I just couldn't do it. The dealer ended up charging me 320.00 out the door, not happy but what you going to do. The thing is they know this part is in the wrong location because they make you relocate it someone else was in the dealer for the same thing and they told both of us about the problem at the same time, moisture build up in the in the valve. His was still coverd and for some reason they said his wasn't bad enogh to move to the new location. I told him its because his is still coverd and he should tell them to move it anyways. I hurd stories about dealers like that but didn't beleave them I guess its true that would have been more work for them later on. He asked them if they moved it before he leftand they ended up moveing it but would they have if both of us wheren't there at the same time????
Im not so sure I'm very happy with my chevy purchase, don't get me wrong I love the truck but this is like the fourth little problem on a truck with only 56,000 miles, and of course it happens right after the warranty is up. Did anyone else have any other problems with there new truck purchase?
I had problems with the heater cluster lights not working not just a bulb you have to replace a 250.00 heast cluster, 2 buttons on the steering wheel lights went out, buttons on the radio went out, tires wore uneven won't do anything about that unless you have proof of all tire rotations, I have moisture in one of my tail lights and never hit anything,one tailight was hanging out of the body of the truck at one time never hit anything, Rubber gasket in the door was just hanging had to be fixed,and of corsethis problem.
Some of this was coverd underthe warranty, butonly about 90% the rest happened within 6000 miles after the warranty so now I have about 1200 dollars into my brand new truck that you buyso you don't have any problems. And lets face it who wants to drive around a new truck with the check engine light on or lights in the dash out?
Thanks for everyones help and hopefullyany info I added helps someone else. If anyone has any little problems with there new truckjust after the warranty share them, I'm wondering if it's just me!!!!
1. Evap Canister 189.00
2. Purge Valve 44.61
3. Vent Valve 153.72
4. Fuel tank pressure sensor 198.92
So as you can see if I play the guessing game I could end up spending up to 5 or 6 hundered dollars. I just don't have it right now so I called the dealer and they said that the diognostic cost was 79.00, if I have them do the work they wave that charge. If it was any one of those things it would run me roughly around 250.00, soeven if I had them tell me what was wrong it will cost 80.00 the part costs 200 they had me the price was going to be about the same if I did the work and I don't even know what I am doing!!
Jackyshaikh the detail you put up was right it was the vent valve selinoid which the part was 153.00 so I prob would have saved a little money, but going into it with out knowing I just couldn't do it. The dealer ended up charging me 320.00 out the door, not happy but what you going to do. The thing is they know this part is in the wrong location because they make you relocate it someone else was in the dealer for the same thing and they told both of us about the problem at the same time, moisture build up in the in the valve. His was still coverd and for some reason they said his wasn't bad enogh to move to the new location. I told him its because his is still coverd and he should tell them to move it anyways. I hurd stories about dealers like that but didn't beleave them I guess its true that would have been more work for them later on. He asked them if they moved it before he leftand they ended up moveing it but would they have if both of us wheren't there at the same time????
Im not so sure I'm very happy with my chevy purchase, don't get me wrong I love the truck but this is like the fourth little problem on a truck with only 56,000 miles, and of course it happens right after the warranty is up. Did anyone else have any other problems with there new truck purchase?
I had problems with the heater cluster lights not working not just a bulb you have to replace a 250.00 heast cluster, 2 buttons on the steering wheel lights went out, buttons on the radio went out, tires wore uneven won't do anything about that unless you have proof of all tire rotations, I have moisture in one of my tail lights and never hit anything,one tailight was hanging out of the body of the truck at one time never hit anything, Rubber gasket in the door was just hanging had to be fixed,and of corsethis problem.
Some of this was coverd underthe warranty, butonly about 90% the rest happened within 6000 miles after the warranty so now I have about 1200 dollars into my brand new truck that you buyso you don't have any problems. And lets face it who wants to drive around a new truck with the check engine light on or lights in the dash out?
Thanks for everyones help and hopefullyany info I added helps someone else. If anyone has any little problems with there new truckjust after the warranty share them, I'm wondering if it's just me!!!!
July 29th, 2012, 2:27 PM
#9
CF Monarch
July 31st, 2012, 6:48 AM
#10
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2012
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HI dear yes go to Auto Zone they will check your fault for free...
Just after I bought my car ..I put fuel in and then my Check engine light came on...But it was caused by the cap not being on tight which when I took it to Auto Zone is what they told me....
Just after I bought my car ..I put fuel in and then my Check engine light came on...But it was caused by the cap not being on tight which when I took it to Auto Zone is what they told me....
