fishin-frog

2005 2500HD Duramax 6.6L
I've searched and come across several posts that discuss this problem. Some of the comments say they will get back with what the solution was, but I can not find those follow-up comments.
My driver heated seat comes on by itself. I am NOT accidentally hitting the buttons, in fact I have taken video of the heater level indicator lights coming on by themselves.
I bought the door switch which controls the driver seat position and heater from the dealership parts department yesterday and replaced it myself. This did not fix the problem.

Anyone that has experienced this problem and found a solution, would you please let me know what the fix is?

Otherwise, can someone please explain to me how to disable the seat heater? I know that pulling the fuse will not work since it is responsible for more than the heater.
Thanks for your help.

lucian*91

anything else turn on besides just the heated seats? relay could have shorted to itself. power seats? where is the button and the light on the button physicaly turns on? seat gets warm too?
you could unplug the connector under your seat to disable it, but keep it clean so it will be usable later.

hotseat

I know it's been a while but did you ever find the solution to this problem? I've replaced the door switch on my 2004 Avalanche (a $150 part) as well as the module under the seat (a $400 part) but it still comes on by itself. I've unplugged the seat because I simply cannot drive with this problem but now I can't adjust my seat and the passenger seat heater doesn't work. They must be connected somehow.

StevenK

Anyone??? "hotseat"... I feel your pain. I've tried the module under the seat, DDM (door switches), and the heated seat/pedal switch on door. I've bought junkyard stuff... and I'm worried that I may have bought a "bad" part, which would really screw up my troubleshooting.

Nothing changes it. I've also read somewhere that one can unplug the adjustable pedal sensor, since it can possibly screw up the works. Still doesn't work for mine.

My vehicle is a 2003 Escalade.

I'm going to keep trying stuff... I'm not ready to "cave" for a silly $1,000 + repair.

If you figure something out, or have a suggestion... please e-mail me @ stevenkiger (at) charter.net

MooseII

I know this is an older post, but there doesn't seem to be any "answers" here. My 2004 Suburban is having all the same problems. First, the driver's heater stopped working, but the passenger continued. Then, one day while driving, we had the passenger heater on, and the driver's off, but the driver's came on and it was ROASTING me. In the meantime, my power seats started acting up. It won't remember the settings, and any time I open the doors with the key fob, it moves the seat as far front as possible. Has anybody fixed any of these problems and can tell us about it?????

StevenK

I think mine was the "master window switch", which is all of the window/pedal/mirror switches on the driver's door. I took it off, sprayed it with a few things that I had in my garage: compressed air, brake cleaner, then finished up with WD40 and maybe battery cleaner? All in an effort to remove any moisture/dirt/etc. It actually 98% repaired the problem.... it would occasionally still act up if it was really wet outside. Does yours happen, or is it worse when it rains? I had found the master window switches online and at the dealer for $250-300, but they do have to be programmed by the dealer. Good luck!

MooseII

Thanks for the input. Right now, mine isn't working at all, so it's hard to tell whether rain would make it worse. I'm game to try anything though! I appreciate it!

in2pro

You might want to try removing the switch and connectors and simply reseating them...
I would avoid using too many cleaners on the switches as there is some lubricant inside to help the switches function... you may be able to open up the switch and clean it up and inspect for any loose or weak parts i.e spring or may discover a broken clip or something preventing it from operating as it should...

As for the programming, I don't believe a replacement switch would need programming, programming would apply to the BCM if new/other options were to be included with the switch that you didn't already have...

StevenK

That's absolutely wrong... the replacement switch will need to be programmed(if new, for sure). By the dealer... or anyone with a "tech II" or whatever it's called. I talked to the switch manufacturer, it says so on their website, and a GM tech confirmed that.

The "switch" is actually a driver's door module. There are letters on the bottom of the switch that list out the options that are on the vehicle, pdl, pw, pp (power pedals), etc... There are surprisingly a lot of combinations. I couldn't find the exact used one for mine, but when tried one of the "close" ones, they wouldn't work... well it would work, but the power pedals wouldn't. I had no desire to take it to the dealer and say "hey, can you program this used part".

I wasn't referring the dousing the mechanical components of the switch. There is a common problem of those modules becoming intermittent when it's wet or humid. There are two circuit boards underneath/connected to the switch, I'm assuming there is some part of those circuit boards that collects dust or makes them more apt to be effected by moisture. When I sprayed mine... it then worked better, and good enough for me to live with.

in2pro

Here are some troubleshooting documents...
The heated switch documents do not indicate any programming needed, however if as you stated the master window switch is replaced then program may be needed depending on options installed. (this doc is too big to attached)