August 10th, 2015, 11:15 AM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Chevrolet Silverado GMT800, GMT900, and K2XX HVAC Diagnostic
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
dual climate control problem
April 28th, 2008, 6:31 PM
#1
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dual climate control problem
Please help! My system will make the passenger side go warm even when a cold temp is wanted. It doesn't matter if its in auto or not. The system starts to work fine but then within a minute you can hear it change and then it blows hot no matter what you do. The drivers side is controllable. If you hit the off button and then turn it on again it stays hot. If you turn the key off and restart it will start cold but every time it goes hot. Do you think this is a temp sensor problem? Where are the sensors.. maybe I can test them somehow. Maybe switching them. The dealer says it may be a actuator. Says there are 4 of them.
April 29th, 2008, 10:45 AM
#5
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: dual climate control problem
Wow what a little research can find. Reading several posts on several sites I have found that this dual climate control problem is very common. The solution my dealhore/stealor has is for me to bring in the truck and they will research the problem. NOT. This is a very common problem that needs a very simple solution. Chevrolet should send out a bulletin to owners on how to fix. If you change batteries, yours goes dead, or your doing some maintenance that requires unhooking the positive then your dual climate control will need fixing. BS. Give us the know how on simple fixes. Most posts talk about the passenger actuator needing resetting cause it looses its memory. A lot of posts talk about unhooking battery let stand for 5 minutes and then reconnect. I called another dealer and explained all of my findings and asked for some free advice. I asked if there were any bulletins that covered this. He called back and found one that states… step one clear codes. Would that be unhook battery? For 38 bucks he said they could do it. Tonight I will try and fix this problem and post my results. 38 bucks is a lot of money to me. Does anyone know how to access technical bulletins? My dealer went on line and found one.
April 29th, 2008, 6:22 PM
#7
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: dual climate control problem
well so far so good. I started the 04 truck ..turned off heating/cooling system...turned off truck...pulled red battery cable...50 minutes put cable back on. Started truck...turned system off right away..let truck run for 5 minutes...turned on heating cooling system...wammo been working in all kinds of different ways for 30 minutes. Hopefully it will stay
Thanks
Thanks
Trending Topics
May 2nd, 2013, 3:18 PM
#8
CF Beginner
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shawnvw,
I've been following this thread as my 2010 Silverado just hit 60,000 miles and my AC went out on the drivers side. I've tried disconnecting the battery, and pulling the HVAC fuses for over 10 minutes and putting it on auto when starting and I get cool air on the drivers side for approx. 12 to 15 minutes and than back to blowing warm air. I've tried doing the battery by itself, the fuses by themselves, and battery and fuses together at least 3 times and its the same result - warm air on the driver's side. I'm at loss for solutions short of having the driver's side temperature actuator replaced. Any ideas? Thanks. Perryrip
I've been following this thread as my 2010 Silverado just hit 60,000 miles and my AC went out on the drivers side. I've tried disconnecting the battery, and pulling the HVAC fuses for over 10 minutes and putting it on auto when starting and I get cool air on the drivers side for approx. 12 to 15 minutes and than back to blowing warm air. I've tried doing the battery by itself, the fuses by themselves, and battery and fuses together at least 3 times and its the same result - warm air on the driver's side. I'm at loss for solutions short of having the driver's side temperature actuator replaced. Any ideas? Thanks. Perryrip
February 26th, 2019, 11:17 AM
#9
Turns out it's a very simple mechanical solution:
1. Find a suitable ball valve for 3/4" heater hose, and 2 worm drive hose
clamps. I took my time, and found this in ten minutes, at Home Depot.
2.Wait till the truck is cold.
3. Pop the hood, loosen the cap on the cooling overflow reservoir
(DO NOT TOUCH THE RADIATOR CAP or RADIATOR)
4. On the passenger side of the engine, you will see a pair of heater hoses
going from the water-pump to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine
compartment. Install a shutoff valve in the top heater hose. This will interrupt
the flow of engine coolant to the heater core. In cold weather, open the valve.
NO MORE "disconnect the HVAC fuse, and pray it works for 2 days" crap.
5. You're welcome. (applause)
1. Find a suitable ball valve for 3/4" heater hose, and 2 worm drive hose
clamps. I took my time, and found this in ten minutes, at Home Depot.
2.Wait till the truck is cold.
3. Pop the hood, loosen the cap on the cooling overflow reservoir
(DO NOT TOUCH THE RADIATOR CAP or RADIATOR)
4. On the passenger side of the engine, you will see a pair of heater hoses
going from the water-pump to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine
compartment. Install a shutoff valve in the top heater hose. This will interrupt
the flow of engine coolant to the heater core. In cold weather, open the valve.
NO MORE "disconnect the HVAC fuse, and pray it works for 2 days" crap.
5. You're welcome. (applause)
Last edited by therewolf; February 26th, 2019 at 11:24 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hyperlite91193
Tahoe & Suburban
11
November 8th, 2022 10:20 AM
