Dave Cover

I have a problem with my 2000 Silverado 4x4 front end that is driving me crazy. To start, I've replaced both front hubs and the drive axle on the right side, the side making the noise. The other axle is less than a year old.

The truck makes a clicking noise when making a tight left turn. Left turn only. It may vary depending on how fast or sharp the turn is. It will make the noise when turning around in the driveway (a sharp turn). It doesn't always do it going down the road and making a left turn which is a faster but less sharp turn.

Turning right does not make any noise. I'm pretty sure the sound is from the right side, but I'm listening from the drivers seat. I guess I need to have someone drive while I listen from outside.

I thought this was a classic CV problem, but installing a new axle didn't solve the problem. I had a shop look at the ball joints recently and they said they looked fine. Could they have missed a ball joint problem and this is the source of the noise? I was thinking that a little play might let the axle put pressure on the front differential which might cause the problem. I don't know and it's driving me crazy.

Thanks

Dave C., 2000 Silverado 4x4 Extended cab

ukrkoz

ahh, hmm, not my business, really, but, next time, before you hop on pricey guess replacing, google your problem first.
there's STB for exactly same issue. there's something about misaligned frame, that requires cross member removal and bolt holes notched. exactly what you describe - noise from the front left end in tight LEFT turns only. basically, by notching hole, you permit more room for bolt play during tight left turn.
sorry to let you know this, after what looks like $5-600 in parts replaced.

Dave Cover

Ukrkoz

Thanks for the info. I did a cursory google, but didn't find the service bulletin you mentioned. I'll have to look further and find it. My googling did get me to this forum, so that was a start. Thanks again for the smack in the right direction.

Dave Cover

Dave Cover

Alright, I just spent half an hour googling TSBs and all I find is the description, but no details. Is there a site that has the actual bulletin? Does this forum have TSBs somewhere? I'm looking for TSB 990308002A.

Thanks

Dave Cover

Dave Cover

One more detail. I have torsion bar suspension. The little information I've been able to find about the TSB refers to trucks with coil springs.

Thanks

Dave Cover

ukrkoz

You do not have torsion bar suspension. Yours is identical to mine. You have regular g'ol control arms, with springs and shock inside the spring. You have, additionally, torsion bars attached to the lower control arms, to help level the vehicle under load. It is supplementary shock absorption system.

anyways, you got me going on this. for a moment, I could not find it myself. try this:
Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)

Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)

2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models

2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)

2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models

2003-2006 HUMMER H2

Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.

This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix.

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.

• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).

basically, I'd say to go to your local dealer and ask for full blown description of repair that needs to be done. of course, you can google that bulletin yourself. I saw complete repair procedure somewhere. it did mention notching crossmember suspension holes. something about crossmember moving on subframe during turns forcefully.
also, one of the engine mounts can be bust, causing engine to hit the frame. engine moves quite a bit during turns.

ukrkoz

hey, and do not feel bad about my sarcasm. it is a well known problem with doityourselfers - hop on replacing "in your face" parts without some research. at least, your front end is half way decent for some time. of course, you need to replace idler arm and pitman and tierods to complete the circle, before the "death wobble" hits you. dead serious.


ok, here it is:
Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation) #03-08-61-002E - (Apr 14, 2005)

2003-2005 Cadillac Escalade

2003-2005 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

and other 2003 - 2005 GMT800 vehicles.
Note: All 1500 Series (½ Ton) with Two-Wheel Drive

Hmmm, I thought the Escalade was ALL Wheel Drive?

This bulletin is being revised to update the correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002D (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a snap or popping-type noise coming from the front of the vehicle. This condition is most apparent during hard left or right turns at low speeds. Going over bumps while turning may also aid in producing this noise.

Correction

Change the front crossmember fastener orientation using the procedure listed below.

Important: DO NOT slot the mounting holes on the crossmember as stated in previous bulletins. Slotting the holes has been found to be less effective and, in some cases, causes the noise condition to be more prevalent.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the mounting nuts, bolts and the front crossmember from the vehicle.
3. Clean all the undercoating off the crossmember in the area of the mounting holes.
4. Reinstall the crossmember with the bolts and nuts. On the passenger side, replace existing washer with GM P/N 11509592 or equivalent washer (see dimensions below) at each bolt head and nut location.

Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).

5. Apply an even coat of Anti-Corrosion Coating, P/N 12346501, or equivalent, to the crossmember where removed. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.

Washer:

Inside Diameter: 14 mm (0.551 in)

Outside Diameter: 35 mm (1.38 in)

Thickness: 3 mm (0.118 in)

Part Information

Qty, 4 each, 11509592 Washer

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

you see, I was right. they told you to slot holes previously, now they changed it to 'do not slot" holes. I guess, I'm still good for something, he-he.

Dave Cover

Well, I'm still having problems. 2000 Silverado 4x4 Extended cab. The aforementioned TSBs do not apply to my truck. I don't have coil springs. What are the chances that a NEW front axle would be bad. I bought it from NAPA and got the new one, not the rebuilt one. Anyone have a good source for a front axle for the truck besides NAPA? The dealer wants $400, way too much unless there is no other option.

Has anyone had front differential problems that might sound like a CV joint?

Again, I have a loud clicking sound coming from the right front when turning sharp left. It does not do this turning right. I have a new axle and hub.

Thanks

Dave Cover

ukrkoz

Dave, you are right and I am wrong. memory ain't worth a flip anymore. I could SEE those shocks inside coils(in my visual picture). yes, there are no springs in the front and 4wd is torsion suspension. Totally my bad.
Now, that I have no credibility, I still want to ask you 2 questions:
1. you do have crossmember, I know that for sure, I have picture of front suspension here in front of me. why not to try that washer thing? it is not much of a hassle to do and might, actually, work. It's GM, for pete's sake, it is all the same down under. problem with crossmember in that tsb was due to rusted metal, why think yours has better quality one?
2. once again, check your engine mounts. my Honda CR-V had factory problem of very similar type - grinding, popping noise during sharp left turns. Engine was mounted too close to the tire wall from the factory and was hitting it in sharp left turn. power train does move a lot during turns.
hey, jackstand front end up in the air completely, so that you can turn wheels freely with hand. turn them all the way to the left and spin wheel in question. you can pinpoint the noise if it is in the driveaxle.

really sorry for the goof.

Dave Cover

I'll give the jackstand method a try. I was thinking of putting it up on 4 and then starting the truck and putting it in drive, but that's a little too scary for me. I don't like the idea of being under it while the wheels are turning.

I'll look at the cross member too. But I don't remember any rust issues, even though I'm in New England.

One more thing I wanted to try but I'm not sure if this will work. Can I remove the front axle from between the differential and the hub and drive the truck? The axle doesn't do anything to retain the wheel, it should work fine. Just thought it might help diagnose the problem.

Thanks for the help so far.

Dave Cover, 2000 Silverado, 4x4, 5.3, ext. cab, 165,000 miles and counting