Many mechanical problems with 04 Chevy
July 7th, 2009, 5:27 PM
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Many mechanical problems with 04 Chevy
I have an 04 Chevy Silverado, 4x4, extanded cab with a 6" Skyjacker suspension lift and 35"x12.50" tires.
Ive had problems with the 4 wheel drive push button dash module which I have found is extremely common in this yr model (dash flashes "Service 4 wheel drive", dash module reads it is in either 4H, 4L, or Nuetral randomly, sometimes actually shifts the transfer case). Ive been told it is the "Encoder Motor" in the transfer case itself (which is a part that practically no warranty covers and is the most expensive part in a transfer case, convenient for the dealership huh?)...wrong, its actually the computer in the dash that needs reprogrammed or replaced.
The transmition was rebuilt at 120,000 miles (also another common problem in this yr model).
The Idler Arm as well as the Pitman Arm replaced (not a component of the lift).
My most recent problem... losing coolant. It was not found in the oil, not coming out of the exhaust, never found any pools of coolant underneath the truck. I had a compression test done to find out what was going on, came out fine. Found out the water pump had just a small enough leak to cause it to drip onto the exhaust and burn before it touched anything else. But im still skeptical... my O2 sensors have gone bad in all banks in sequence (meaning...sensor 1 went first, then sensor 2, then 3 then 4) I have replaced sensor 1 and 2, just for them to go out again shortly after (these parts arent cheap, we're talkin $100+ each sensor). When put on a diagnostics computer codes for each of the O2 sensors come up, the Mass Air Flow Sensor code is thrown too, which is common when 2 or more O2 sensors is bad, but the Heating Element code for the O2 sensors is also being thrown. Is there a seperate O2 sensor heating element, or is it in the O2 Sensor, so when I replace the O2 sensors it will fix both problems? I dont want to replace them again just for them to go out AGAIN. Is it just a coincidence or is there something more?
I absoluelty love this truck but it is nickel and diming me to death!
Somebody help me if you know anything reguarding this matter!
Ive had problems with the 4 wheel drive push button dash module which I have found is extremely common in this yr model (dash flashes "Service 4 wheel drive", dash module reads it is in either 4H, 4L, or Nuetral randomly, sometimes actually shifts the transfer case). Ive been told it is the "Encoder Motor" in the transfer case itself (which is a part that practically no warranty covers and is the most expensive part in a transfer case, convenient for the dealership huh?)...wrong, its actually the computer in the dash that needs reprogrammed or replaced.
The transmition was rebuilt at 120,000 miles (also another common problem in this yr model).
The Idler Arm as well as the Pitman Arm replaced (not a component of the lift).
My most recent problem... losing coolant. It was not found in the oil, not coming out of the exhaust, never found any pools of coolant underneath the truck. I had a compression test done to find out what was going on, came out fine. Found out the water pump had just a small enough leak to cause it to drip onto the exhaust and burn before it touched anything else. But im still skeptical... my O2 sensors have gone bad in all banks in sequence (meaning...sensor 1 went first, then sensor 2, then 3 then 4) I have replaced sensor 1 and 2, just for them to go out again shortly after (these parts arent cheap, we're talkin $100+ each sensor). When put on a diagnostics computer codes for each of the O2 sensors come up, the Mass Air Flow Sensor code is thrown too, which is common when 2 or more O2 sensors is bad, but the Heating Element code for the O2 sensors is also being thrown. Is there a seperate O2 sensor heating element, or is it in the O2 Sensor, so when I replace the O2 sensors it will fix both problems? I dont want to replace them again just for them to go out AGAIN. Is it just a coincidence or is there something more?
I absoluelty love this truck but it is nickel and diming me to death!
Somebody help me if you know anything reguarding this matter!
July 8th, 2009, 10:35 AM
#3
Yeah, love my 04 too, and I just got the trouble code at 75K for the knock sensor circuit.-PO332-
Sez "knock sensor 2 circuit low input (bank 2)"
Had the same problem at 24K and 48k with the coolant leaks, I thought it was the waterpump itself, apparently it's the seal at the gasket.
The dealer pumped a lot of sunshine about how great automatic pushbutton 4WD was. I thank the Lord for giving me the clarity of mind to INSIST on a manual 4WD shifter, every time I hear a 4WD horror story.
What I don't understand is they set up this "trouble code" system, why won't they let you know what the "codes" are supposed to mean?
GM spent millions setting up systems which monitor systems. The systems they monitor are fine, but now I have to spend a few hundred dollars repairing a system which is only a monitor. I hear ya, OP
BTW, did replacing the idler arm and pitman arm get rid of the loosey-goosey steering?
Sez "knock sensor 2 circuit low input (bank 2)"
Had the same problem at 24K and 48k with the coolant leaks, I thought it was the waterpump itself, apparently it's the seal at the gasket.
The dealer pumped a lot of sunshine about how great automatic pushbutton 4WD was. I thank the Lord for giving me the clarity of mind to INSIST on a manual 4WD shifter, every time I hear a 4WD horror story.
What I don't understand is they set up this "trouble code" system, why won't they let you know what the "codes" are supposed to mean?
GM spent millions setting up systems which monitor systems. The systems they monitor are fine, but now I have to spend a few hundred dollars repairing a system which is only a monitor. I hear ya, OP
BTW, did replacing the idler arm and pitman arm get rid of the loosey-goosey steering?
Last edited by therewolf; July 8th, 2009 at 10:38 AM.
July 13th, 2009, 10:46 AM
#5
You tell me. It has a smooth idle, low running temperature, and good oil pressure. It gets good mileage, and has plenty of power.
Now maybe GMs version is different, but where I come from that's a sound running engine...
Now maybe GMs version is different, but where I come from that's a sound running engine...
July 14th, 2009, 6:48 PM
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Response Serious018: What does my truck being built in Indiana have anything to do with it? lol
Response rivereye: Nope steering is still lose as all hell, but I thought it was just the lift on my truck that caused it. Urs is loose too huh? There is a jam nut on top of the steering box if u loosen that and tighten up the screw (either flathead, sometimes allen wrench) it will tighten up the steering.
The waterpump wasnt the waterpump either? Well, since Iv already got the waterpump Im gonna replace it anyway.
But yeah, the pushbutton 4WD is a bad bad idea. I researched it online and its really common in that yr model. And a friend of mines truck had the same problem. It still worked for 4 yrs (and then they sold the truck, so it could still be kickin) just a pain to deal with more than anything.
Response wffokker: Engine runs fine. Fuel milage has gone down about 5 mpg in a year, more and more as each O2 sensor goes. And it idles rough sometimes, so I know mine r bad.
The only reason the O2 sensor code would throw and it not be bad is if elevation has incresed and decreased within a fairly short period of time, it runs richer in lower elevations than what the truck is used to so the sensors can build up carbon and it takes time for it to clean itself if you dont clean it yourself, or if u push the truck to hard and pull a load thats too heavy it will run rich and throw the code too, same situation tho, it built up carbon...clean it. Also, if your spark plugs are bad it can lead to the computer overcompensating and dumping more fuel than it needs and builds up carbon once again. Change ur air filter too that can throw the computer off. Every little thing with these stupid computers in vehicles now can cause a domino effect. And if u cant get it to a shop for them to reset the computer on ur vehicle, it can take anywhere from 30 miles to 1000 miles or more for it to clear itself before the code stops showing.
Response rivereye: Nope steering is still lose as all hell, but I thought it was just the lift on my truck that caused it. Urs is loose too huh? There is a jam nut on top of the steering box if u loosen that and tighten up the screw (either flathead, sometimes allen wrench) it will tighten up the steering.
The waterpump wasnt the waterpump either? Well, since Iv already got the waterpump Im gonna replace it anyway.
But yeah, the pushbutton 4WD is a bad bad idea. I researched it online and its really common in that yr model. And a friend of mines truck had the same problem. It still worked for 4 yrs (and then they sold the truck, so it could still be kickin) just a pain to deal with more than anything.
Response wffokker: Engine runs fine. Fuel milage has gone down about 5 mpg in a year, more and more as each O2 sensor goes. And it idles rough sometimes, so I know mine r bad.
The only reason the O2 sensor code would throw and it not be bad is if elevation has incresed and decreased within a fairly short period of time, it runs richer in lower elevations than what the truck is used to so the sensors can build up carbon and it takes time for it to clean itself if you dont clean it yourself, or if u push the truck to hard and pull a load thats too heavy it will run rich and throw the code too, same situation tho, it built up carbon...clean it. Also, if your spark plugs are bad it can lead to the computer overcompensating and dumping more fuel than it needs and builds up carbon once again. Change ur air filter too that can throw the computer off. Every little thing with these stupid computers in vehicles now can cause a domino effect. And if u cant get it to a shop for them to reset the computer on ur vehicle, it can take anywhere from 30 miles to 1000 miles or more for it to clear itself before the code stops showing.
July 14th, 2009, 7:21 PM
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Hey guys, I am new to GM and just purchased myself a 04 Silverado. Seems to run great excepet... 10 MPG, but its lifted runnin 35s. I baby the gas pedal also. The AC runs cold except when I sit at a light it goes warm. But as soon as the RPMs rise the air gets cold. O and my tachometer dosn't work. The dearler I got it from is a used car lot and they are going to look into my tach for me. Thats about it that I can think of for now. I hope this isn't going to be a headache for me. I love the truck already.
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July 15th, 2009, 11:19 AM
#8
Sorry, CJ_Tiz, But with a lift and 35s that's about what you're going to get, mileage wise.
All things considered, it's not that bad, really.
Don't space out that Tach repair. Make sure they do it now.
All things considered, it's not that bad, really.
Don't space out that Tach repair. Make sure they do it now.
July 15th, 2009, 12:06 PM
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I'm going to do a cold air and run some pipes out the back and see If that helps a little with the gas. I also plan on getting it on a dyno and get it tuned. I don't know what the guy did to it before me getting it. Everything except the lift looks stock.
Anyone have any good ideas for a tuner? I heard the name bullydog thrown around. Is this something I should look into?
Thanks
Anyone have any good ideas for a tuner? I heard the name bullydog thrown around. Is this something I should look into?
Thanks
July 16th, 2009, 10:43 AM
#10
A CAI will give you fast revs, but it won't help your MPG.
Bullydog is great for a diesel engine; got one? Programmers don't do a lot for gas economy, many claim a performance chip by Nelson Tune or Black Bear is a better deal.
Do a little research, I think you'll find a dual-exhaust will (once again) enhance your performance while hurting your MPG.
Research the threads here at this site, we've discussed some of these issues extensively. Let everyone else's experience save you money.
Bullydog is great for a diesel engine; got one? Programmers don't do a lot for gas economy, many claim a performance chip by Nelson Tune or Black Bear is a better deal.
Do a little research, I think you'll find a dual-exhaust will (once again) enhance your performance while hurting your MPG.
Research the threads here at this site, we've discussed some of these issues extensively. Let everyone else's experience save you money.