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2014 Chevy Silverado
Platform: Truck, GMT 400, 800, & 900

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Old 04-14-2011, 07:16 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Default Oil Pan Removal

I am workin om a 1500 4x4 w/350. Can anyone tell when the easiest way to remove the oil pan? Does anyone make a aftermarket oil pan to make this any easier? I've got the pan lose but there is no way to pull it out, it's hitting on the front axle and transmission. Any tips or tricks?

Last edited by Jcase350; 04-14-2011 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:20 AM
Rez Rez is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 58

This is a very time consuming project on the 4x4. I've done it 3 times now in the last year (don't ask why).

There are 2 ways to do it:

1. Unbolt lower diff bolt (on drivers side) and the 2 bolts on the pass side. This will allow the diff to swing down while still attached to the axles. Then you have to unbolt the 2 engine mount bolts. There is 1 bolt (about 4" long) on each side of the engine. Now put a 2x4 on the harmonic balancer and jack up the engine about 3-4". Now you will have clearance to remove the pan. This is the hard way because it does not give you clearance to access several other components that should probably be replaced while you are working in there (see below). I suggest the second method.

2. Remove diff carrier completely. This is a little daunting at first, but I managed to do it by myself with only a 3 ton hyd jack. Be very careful, it is very heavy (150 lb at least). With the diff carrier removed, you have unlimited access to the underside of the engine. Also you can replace the axle shaft seals while it is removed, and completely drain the old diff fluid as well.

While you're doing the oil pan gasket, I HIGHLY recommend replacing the timing cover and seals. They are very prone to leaking at high mileage.
If you don't replace the timing cover now, you will have to completely redo the oil pan gasket whenever you DO have to do the timing cover.

Then you might want to replace the timing chain and gears if the chain has slack in it. Mine had quite a bit of slack at 200k miles.

Also, I suggest you get a set of inverse torx bits to remove the 4 studs at each corner of the oil pan. This will make it easier to re-install the pan (so you don't have to line up the holes with the studs). When re-installing the 3/8" pan bolts, do not over-torque them, they snap easily.

Use black RTV silicone at the front corners only (at the interface with the timing cover). I would not use the RTV at any other location.

I also decided to replace the whole power steering system while I had the clearance. But that's another story altogether...

I didn't have all this information when I did these projects and ended up doing it all 3 times before I got it right. Hopefully you can learn from my experiences. Good luck!

Last edited by Rez; 04-16-2011 at 08:40 AM.
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