foxracing254

Hi all, been driving my truck around for a while and loving it. Recently, I decided since winter is coming on, I wanted a remote start. I found a good deal on a Ready Remote 24921 system. It came with very clear instructions, so I followed everything to the tee. It worked fine, fired up my truck and stopped it. But now, I have the following CEL codes: p0740, p0785, p1860. These are all trans related, but it seems to be mostly solenoid related. It started slipping in 1st, and banging into 2nd, but I cut power to the remote start system and that stopped but I am still getting the codes. I'm worried that it basically fried a bunch of expensive components, does anyone have any insight? The only thing I can think of is that I have 3 ignition wires, so I followed the directions and got 2 extra relays and wired those up. Thanks for any advice.

foxracing254

Also, i thought I should mention that after clearing the codes, they reappear as soon as i start the truck (i don't even have to go anywhere). When i do drive it, it shifts fine and goes into 4th no problem, although I'm not sure if the converter is locking up or not.

EinST

Don't these things usually screw around with the PNP switch circuit? Try cutting the wire you've grafted on there.

foxracing254

Not sure what that is, but i'll look it up and give it a shot. Thanks!

EinST

It's to disable the starter unless the shifter is in PARK or NEUTRAL.

foxracing254

Oh! I don't remember tapping into that. I spliced intothe 3 ignition wires, the accessory wire and the constant 12v wires. Unless one of the ignition wires controls that, I don't think I cut that wire

EinST

Oops, I was going to call it a day. Did you splice into the white wire coming off of the ignition switch? Downstream of that is the 10A TRANS fuse in the I/P fuse block that powers the transmission solenoid circuits. Verify there's a full battery voltage present on that circuit with key in OFF, RUN, or START but not in LOCK or ACC.

foxracing254

I spliced into the white one, I believe it's the second ignition wire. If there's not full voltage on that circuit, what can be done about that? Sorry, i'm not much of an electrician.

foxracing254

Ok, I just looked for that fuse, but to no avail =/ the closest I could find to it was the PRNDL fuse, and it was fine. am I missing it?

EinST

If that's the only thing referring to automatic transmission, I guess that's it. You need to measure the voltage at that fuse and make sure there's full battery voltage with key in OFF, RUN, or START and no voltage with key in LOCK or ACC. Sometimes splicing can split the conductors almost in half and create a brownout in the circuit. If that's the case, you need to repair the damage (run a new wire segment to bypass the spot or something).