ukrkoz

I just did all three items on extended cab. Thought, I'd share some findings, call them tips, for those jobs.

1. Cabin EPA filters are underneath the passenger side dashboard. In my case, the assembly is covered by large pan type piece of plastic, I am assuming, it is preventing feet from hitting something important.
There are 3 screws that hold that cover in place. Screws are 7mm heads. one close to the door, one in the middle, and one above the driveshaft housing. You do not need to get the third screw out, besides, it's almost impossible to get to anyway. First 2 crews removed, tray drops down. Right about in the middle of the AC housing, towards the firewall, there's a single screw holding filters cover in place. For what it was, it is some odd size head, 7/32 worked fine. Undo it, pull cover out. Filters are stacked one behind another, towards the firewall. Mine came out totally dead, full of junk and dirt.
$36 plus tax dealership.
Reason I replaced them was because truck started picking up outside smells real bad.
2. Fuel filter is midway inside the driver side frame. Basically, flare nut wrenches popped it open very easy. Now, you must break fuel pressure beforehand. Pop the fuses cover under the hood, locate fuel pump relay, and pull it out. Start engine and let it die. Keep in mind, drawing on the fuse box cover is backwards and there's no safety feature preventing relay from reinstalled backward. You need to align unused, 5th pin in the relay with 5th recess in the fuse panel.
Book says to remove fuel filter holder completely by undoing 2 nuts that hold it in place.
I could not, as it was also holding to one of the brake lines. I simply slid the filter out of holder. You'll need large open end wrench or crescent wrench, to prevent filter from spinning while tightening the flare nuts.
Truck started on the 2nd cranck.
$14 with tax Schucks.
3. Drivebelt, though quite easy, took some time to figure routing.
I have AC. Stretch gauge on tensioner was showing that belt is still way inside the norm. But having 102K miles on ticker just asked to replace it.
Anyhow, slide 15mm box wrench on the tensioner and turn it clockwise. Belt loosens and slides off easily.
Routing it back is a trick. I started - finally - with the belt wrapped around the tensioner. Then, routed it, continuously holding it snug on tensioner, following diagram. Thus, the last pulley to apply belt on is the alternator pulley. Now, you have to slide wrench back on the tensioner, release tensioner, and slide belt onto the alternator pulley. If you try to do it any other way so that belt ends on the tensioner pulley, you can't, as you can't apply the wrench.
NOW, I know where that dial on the tensioner gauge is SUPPOSED TO BE for an unstretched belt. All the way past the very right mark on the tensioner, and then some more.
$83 plus tax dealership.

Mike Sigmond

Very nice, My 02 Silverado seems to be the same procedures and possibly same part#'s Just FYI if anyone has a 02 Silverado.

I did the Fuel filter on my 04 Tahoe today, its a flex fuel. Its a tricky lil bug, the "out" side of the filter has a snap on hose. I ended up removing it with the 6" hose attached to it and had to cut the spout off the filter to get the fuel line removal tool to go in. I dried it out good before throwing sparks with the cut off wheel. Other than that, got er done.