97Chev1500

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I have a 97 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 vortec engine. Recently, I noticed that it has become difficult to start after it has been sitting for a couple of days. When starting cold you must crank it 6-7 times to get it started. After it starts once, it will start every time without issue, until it sits once again for an extended period of time.

Suspecting a fuel problem, I hooked the fuel pressure gauge up and found the key on pressure to be around 54 PSI. The book specifications say 60 PSI to 65 PSI. The first thing that I did was replace the fuel filter. With the filter replaced, I had similar results with 54 PSI.

I then clamped off the fuel return line, cycled the key off and on several times, and the pressure didn’t budge from 54 PSI. I then removed the clamp on the line.

After hitting the ignition several times it started. The fuel pressure gauge needle jumped back and forth 10 or so PSI. After turning the truck off, the resting fuel pressure was quite a bit higher at 63 PSI. If you turn the key, it will fire right up.

Could anyone give me the possibilities here?
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97-SilveradoMan

My friend had this problem on his 95 k1500. i dont know if yours is exactly the same problem but his turned out to be the fuel pump was going bad on his. have you checked that yet?

97Chev1500

How would I go about checking it?

gfd749

hook up your fuel pressure gauge before you prime your pump. when u prime it and the needle slowly goes up then you have a weak pump. i have a 97 c1500 and the 2 biggest problems i have heard about on the 97s are bad distributors and bad fuel pumps. my truck is doing the exact same thing as yours. i wont be able to put a fuel pressure gauge on mine until later today. i'll keep u updated as i figure out my problem.

mvandy5

'97 5.7L only starts if I put gas down TB. key on pressure jumps to 60 then falls to zero. when running pressure is 52. suggestions?

gfd749

mvandy5 have u checked for a leak in your return line. have u clamped any lines to see if its a bad check valve in your pump

97Chev1500

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Here’s some information on how I changed the fuel pump on my 97 Chevy Silverado 1500.

• Disconnect battery
• depressurize fuel system
• Remove 8 bolts holding the truck bed on. If you have a trailer hitch, you may have to remove it to get to the back two bolts.
• Disconnect taillight connector, ground wire, and license plate connector, all located at the center of the bumper
• Remove six bolt/ screws holding gas tank fill tube to body and tie out of the way.
• remove ground strap from fill tube to body
• Two people grab under the rear fenders, lift up about a foot or so and shift truck bed back a couple of feet. Bed should rest on tires and truck bumper.
• Remove fuel line, return line, evap line, connector and ground wire
• Twist fuel pump retainer ring counter-clockwise I believe to remove
• Carefully remove fuel pump assembly while watching out for the fuel tank float. May have to work it a little
• Replace pump and reinstall assembly with new rubber o-ring provided.
• Assemble in reverse order

Hope this clears up any confusion. Yes, the truck bed can be lifted by two strong guys and no you do not have to completely remove the bed from the truck. Just lift and back it up a couple of feet.

BTW, depending on the type of fuel pump electrical connector that you have, you may want to replace it. A certain type of connector (metra-pack 150) has been known to cause multiple pump failures. If you have this type of connector, it would be wise to replace it, especially if you keep burning through fuel pumps.

GregHamilton

This is awesome detail 97Chev1500. My truck is a 2000 Silverado Extended Cab Z71 w/ 5.3L Vortec and ~185K miles. It has been having the same problem for about 3 years. I'm up to about 4 cranks on the ignition now and my ignition went out so having that replaced now. About the same time, my fuel gauge stopped working correctly. I use my trip meter instead, simply refill at 300 miles as the gauge is extremely flaky when tank is full or very low. I have not been able to bring myself to pay the $900 I have been quoted by a couple of places to replace the fuel pump, but with this detail I think me and my son will have a go at it as we changed out the shocks and there was nothing to it.

Does anyone know if this same procedure would apply to my truck even though it is a different year? Also, what is the best value of pump to go with (good mix of quality and price)? Auto Zone appears to only sell an Airtex, and O'Reilly's sells Airtex, Delphi, and Bosch. In each case and for each manufacturer, there are always two part numbers. What's the best way to make sure I am getting the correct one? Also, Auto Zone lists my wiring harness as an Airtex (P/N: WH3005) so I don't think it is a metra-pack 150, but I'm wondering if I should change it anyway. Also, the part description on Auto Zone's website said to clean out the tank. Any ideas on the best way to do this? And lastly, what is the best way to empty out the gas so it can be reused? Thanks in advance for any help you all can provide on my questions.

97Chev1500

I can answer a few of your questions. First, the procedure should be relatively the same for your 2000.

As for the fuel pump, I purchased a Delphi because from what I gather, the Airtex pumps are known to not least very long. The best way to ensure that you are getting the correct one is to verify the part number by contacting your local dealership and giving them your VIN number.

As for the wiring harness, if it's the metra pack, you should change it. Here's the GM service bulletin. If you have this type of connector, it should be replaced. Luckily, I didn't have this type but I did research prices and they are not cheap. The GM part cost around $60.

Rather than emptying your tank, you may want to consider pulling the truck bed if possible. There are 8 18mm bolts, 4 at the front of the bed and 4 at the rear. You will need at least 6" - 9" of extension. Follow the instructions that I posted above.

BTW... Have you checked your fuel pressure yet?

GregHamilton

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I think I would have more confidence in the Delphi than the Airtex. They checked my fuel pressure at the shop that quoted me $900 to fix it. I don't remember the numbers but basically they were good if you rechecked it shortly after turning the engine off, but when they let it sit for awhile, the pressure would go down significantly. Looks like I'll be able to save $600 in labor if all goes right.